61 impala - Impala Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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61 impala

I need help

I just got the car 61 impala
350 sbc
Hei
2sppg on the tree

1st does anyone have a pic of there fuse box showing the ports used and not used

2nd no wipers working

3rd no fuel gauge

4 when you press the ebrake the GEN light comes on

5th no reverse lights


Please help
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 10:18 PM
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Welcome to the Team Tekin!

First do you own and know how to use an electrical multimeter (Amp as well as OHMs, and an AC / DC Volt meter combined in one tool)? Since you can not see electricity it is a very important tool to diagnose electrical problems.

Your fuse box has a fuse in the box for each circuit required for the car. There are a few open slots for optional equipment that might not have been installed but if you want power your best bet is to go back to the battery and run a big wire from the battery to an in line fuse and then to a distribution bus that contains individual fuses for adding other electrical accessories under the dash.

If you hurry you can find these parts and tools at Radio Shack before they close their doors for good (they are in bankruptcy now).

Search this board and you will discover that gas gauge issues and lights not working are about all you will find in the electrical section. The problem is always the same: a bad ground.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 03:02 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Well I understand that but the thing is I font even know which wires are suppose to be plugged into the fuse box using the spade connectors does anyone have a pic of it
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 09:35 AM
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All of the wires are already plugged in the cabin has it's own wiring harness that connects to the under hood (front) wiring harness by way of the two halves of the fuse block that is screwed together.

If you need power there is a spade connector (male) labeled ACC that you can tap into and install a fuse to make it work.

Big Dave
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Well Big Dave

I get it and understand that but and I know that all the fuses should be plugged in but what does the bottom fuse SPDT do and also which wires go where for the spade connectors as they are all unplugged
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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I have power at the fuel gauge and signal coming to the fuel gauge and I went harbour freight to grab a fuel gauge but I am not sure if they ohm ra ting is different than stock but if anyone know's. My clock and coolant temperature gauge also font work, could this all be a related issue??? Which socket does he single pink wire plug into on the fuse block and also the ebrake
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekin View Post
I have power at the fuel gauge and signal coming to the fuel gauge and I went harbour freight to grab a fuel gauge but I am not sure if they ohm ra ting is different than stock but if anyone know's. My clock and coolant temperature gauge also font work, could this all be a related issue??? Which socket does he single pink wire plug into on the fuse block and also the ebrake
You need in addition to the multimeter a wiring diagram that shows where the wires are connected. They are generally printed in black and white (false color diagrams do not show the color of the wire in the circuit but use a color to help you to trace where the wire goes). If you are lucky the bigger and better wiring diagrams will tell you the factory wire coloring.

You can find wiring diagrams for free on line and print them out. They are free and worth every penny you pay for them. I prefer to spend the big bucks (usually around seven dollars) for a "C" size (17" x 22") print of the factory diagram, or the original "D" size (22" x 34") print that it was original draw upon when they where first drafted. They are sold as bound books with the paper folded into fold outs.

1963 Impala Parts | MP223 | 1963 Chevrolet Full-Size Wiring Diagram | Classic Industries

Here is a free version:

http://www.autopartsdb.net/assets/im...mg/1/14453.JPG

Don't know about you but my eyesight is too bad to read the printed info on this drawing to figure out what goes where, which would be easier to do on a larger print.

Big Dave

Last edited by Big Dave; 03-24-2017 at 12:08 PM. Reason: typos
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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OK look I get it I got a meter,light, wiring knowledge but I just wanna know if anyone has a pic of there factory fuse block showing where the wires on the drivers foot well the the wires are connected via spade connection. Not the engine bay side cause it might be as easy as wrong connection
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 01:27 PM
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Hi Tekin,

Reading your issue on the GEN light, I have to share a short story about my Grandpa and his 70 Impala wagon.

He *purposefully* connected up a dash light to his brake pedal so that he would have visual notification if he was unknowingly resting his foot on the brake pedal while driving. :-D
Not saying your car is wired like that, but, who knows, maybe that generation thought it was a good idea. You can/should connect up that multi-meter at the GEN output to see if it indeed drops when you put the brakes on.
Also, note that there is probably a wiring junction in your 61 like my 66 for the brakes, in the forward trunk area. I was thinking that it might be an easy way to disconnect the rear part of the harness and to re-test to see if the issue persists or not. It may at least help you focus on the one end or the other.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 04:01 PM
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Ok here are some pictures. They are not of a 1961 Chevy because I have never owned one. Over twenty '55 Chevys and a '53 but never a full size. My 1961 was a Corvair Monza Convertible four speed car. Then came a brand new off the show room 1967 Chevy II two door followed by a 1968 Camaro and a 1971 Nova.

Anyway it is a GM product and all GM's share parts and technology (the SBC was designed by the man that built the V8 for Cadillac that was so popular ion the fifties between a set or 1928 model A frame rails with a '32 Ford body on top.

The Fuse block inside the car cabin looks like this:



This is a picture from American Auto Wire and is as close to a factory harness as you can buy today. Note that all of the wires are bundled together with plastic wrap (not electrical tape) and that the only wire to come off the front of the fuse block is the double red going to a power tap connector. There are no other wires tapping into the front of the fuse block from the factory. Anything you see there now was installed by a previous user who may not have had your skill level/.

Next I direct your attention to the labeling. TAIL is for the tail lights, not the brake lights. It also powers all of the marker lights on the car (starting in 1968 this included side maker lights). STOP powers only the stop lights, whether you have two four or six bulbs it is all powered here by way of a brake light switch under the dash. EMR powers the emergency flasher which became standard equipment in 1967, so it would be a dealer installed option on your car if it has a chromed knob with a garnet red plastic lens in the center of it mounted just under the dash.

The two red wires I mentioned above are plugged into the PWR spade. That terminal is live only with the IGN powered up. It is were you tap something you want to be powered with the ignition switch in the run position. The separate ACCS spade provides a power tap when the ignition key is turned to ACCS or in the run position and is good for powering a radio that you can listen to with the motor off.

GAUGE and INST LPS power the lamps for your dash and the idiot lights get their power from the Gauge fuse. If you have meters (Amp, Tach, Oil, and Temp) that requires a piggy back supplemental wiring harness that plugs into the cabin wiring harness under the dash. But the power is supplied through the gauge fuse.

DIR SGNL and BCK UP power your turn signal lamps and back up lights. Two separate switches control those lamps that share one fuse. The Radio has it's own circuit and is the tinny yellow wire coming out of the back of the radio which back then had vacuum tubes and was generally only AM.

HEATER powers the fan switch which drops the power to ground through a series of resistors to control the fan speed. WIPER runs straight to the wiper switch was only one speed back in 1961.

IF your car had Air Conditioning (a rare option) it would power the compressor through the AC fuse. The BAT is a direct connection to the battery (through the front wiring harness fusible link on the fire wall as well as the main fusible link at the battery cable terminal). It is not fused individually and if shorted will blow open both fusible links in your car's wiring harness.

Here is a picture of the full factory car wiring harness (out of a 1967 Buick Electra 225 I scrapped just to obtain the Buick Wild Cat 430 engine) which as you can see is bundled into branches like a tree to route power where needed in the car. There are no loose wires.



By loose I mean not leading back into a bundle that terminates inside the fuse block.

Big Dave
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