Hello with a '67 Impala SS from NoVA - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Hello with a '67 Impala SS from NoVA

Hi all, recently purchased the car as my first project car to start working on with my sons (too young at the moment 3 & 1). 4 speed on the floor on the second engine (allegedly a 327)

For now the car is being stored at my folk's house since my HOA would frown upon a non-running car in my driveway until my boys get older.

The car needs a lot of work, but I plan on taking my time and getting it running first then figure out the body work.

Here are a couple pics, the tires and wheels need to be replaced just so it rolls.









I have enjoyed reading the forums and picking up tips. Look forward to building this out eventually.
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post #2 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 07:32 PM
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Welcome

If you can post a pic of your trim tag, we will decode it for you.

Paul

Paul

1966 Impala SS

Please Visit our new site:
http://www.winvoices.com/
1959 through 1982* window stickers, car shippers, dealer invoices, retail sales orders and tank stickers, expertly reproduced, for most Chevrolet Models.





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post #3 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 08:50 PM
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Welcome to the Team!

You can also write down the two letter code on the engine ID pad (passenger side at the base of the head).Those numbers and letters will tell you what kind of engine you have, were it was originally installed and when.

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post #4 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Thanks, I will work on getting a pic or minimum the letters from the tag.


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post #5 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 07:34 AM
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Welcome. Where in Northern Virginia (NoVA) are you? We are in Ashburn and just picked up a 67 with a 327. Just got it to pass inspection. Got it for my son to learn how to wrench and use as his primary mode of transportation.

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post #6 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gr8dain View Post
Welcome. Where in Northern Virginia (NoVA) are you? We are in Ashburn and just picked up a 67 with a 327. Just got it to pass inspection. Got it for my son to learn how to wrench and use as his primary mode of transportation.



Centreville, my car is in Mississippi (my parent's house) so I won't be able to get more pictures until the next time we visit.
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post #7 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 06:41 PM
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Centreville, my car is in Mississippi (my parent's house) so I won't be able to get more pictures until the next time we visit.


Well you are welcome to check ours out and live vicariously through us for now.
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post #8 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Well you are welcome to check ours out and live vicariously through us for now.


Thanks, I appreciate it.
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post #9 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Thanks, I appreciate it.


Maybe you might be able to tell me this.

What is the silver knob to the right of the shifter under the glovebox?
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post #10 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Maybe you might be able to tell me this.

What is the silver knob to the right of the shifter under the glovebox?


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post #11 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 07:17 PM
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No clue. I don't think we have that. I will look when I get home
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post #12 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-15-2016, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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No clue. I don't think we have that. I will look when I get home


I think it's the side vent control since this is a non-AC car.
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post #13 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-16-2016, 02:13 PM
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Yep, pull to open, push back to close vent (air enters the side kick panel and blows on your legs/side while moving). Same function as the one on the drivers side that I think I see hanging by the cable.
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post #14 of 46 (permalink) Old 10-16-2016, 03:53 PM
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Which would be why mine does not have it. We have an AC car but the AC does not work.
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post #15 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Finally got my car up here to VA.

The cowl tag.

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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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If this is the engine vin I can't see it.
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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 05:28 PM
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If this is the engine vin I can't see it.
That is the engine ID pad that tells you when it was made and where and what it was installed in it also has the horsepower and carb as well as the tranny all encoded in the letters and numbers stamped there. Your VIN is a tag on the door frame. The picture above this shows the trim tag. Tells you when the car was made the style of car, car color and interior color and type of seats installed it also occasionally lists some options installed.

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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Quote:
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That is the engine ID pad that tells you when it was made and where and what it was installed in it also has the horsepower and carb as well as the tranny all encoded in the letters and numbers stamped there. Your VIN is a tag on the door frame. The picture above this shows the trim tag. Tells you when the car was made the style of car, car color and interior color and type of seats installed it also occasionally lists some options installed.



Big Dave


Is it just covered in crud or missing?
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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Is it just covered in crud or missing?


The engine ID that is.
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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Yes, crud
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post #21 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 07:01 PM
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Depends upon the engine. All engines made after 1957 were stamped with an ID code (originally a single letter, then two letters from 1963-'68 after which three letters were used to identify the engine) showing the plant code, production date, and suffix code. The suffix tells you application, original model, Engine RPO, and HP and transmission that were originally mated to the engine. Partial VIN's didn't appear on base engines until 1967. If it was a BBC or a high performance SBC engine (exceeded a factory rating of 300 horsepower) it got a partial VIN starting in 1963.

If there is nothing there it is an old 1955-'56 265 SBC (which has no oil filter pad to confirm the displacement), or it has been removed by a previous owner. The 265 only existed as one type of motor so there was no need to identify car make as Chevy only made one body type back then, and it only had a two barrel on top being the base engine. Wasn't until the 283 was introduced in 1957 that Chevy had more than one V8 offered for sale.

Plant codes are:

F-Flint, MI
K- St. Catherines, ONT. Canada
M-hecho en Mexico
T-Tonawanda, NY
V-Flint, MI

To numerals for the day of the week and two numerals for the month. The shift (hour of the day) the block was cast and the year it was cast are in the block as a casting marks.

Very useful to determine were a mystery motor originated if you don't have your born with motor under the hood.

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post #22 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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It was apparently just really dirty. I hit it with some sandpaper and found the numbers. Any idea what O(believe that is an O as in Omega)I30S is?

Thanks for the info, always helpful.
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post #23 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 07:43 AM
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That reads "Zero I three OS", and no I have no idea as that isn't listed in any of my catalogs as being a valid code.

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post #24 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 07:54 AM
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What's the vin# of the car? Does it have a muncie 4spd in it? 12 bolt rear?
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post #25 of 46 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 10:41 AM
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I'm in Falls Church and have a '63 Impala convertible. If you need something, I'm willing to assist if I can.

Just one thought. Before I would begin spending money on the car, I would recommend you give it a through inspection looking for ALL the rust. Get it up on a lift so you can see under it. Pry, gouge, poke, scrape, (whatever) the frame and body and all the areas where the rust may occur. Remove sections of carpet to look at the floors. Get into the trunk too.

If you have to pay someone for body work, you are looking at LOTS of $$.

My '63 had zero rust anywhere but it did need a paint job (the existing one was not properly done). For a 'new car' quality paint job (not at all fancy); including removing/replacing all the trim, repairing all the little dings and dents was $10k.

I addressed the body work first because it's probably the most expensive stuff to 'restore'. But while you're 'inspecting', I'd make a 'list' of all the restorations, replacements, upgrades, repairs you might want/need to complete. Assign a value to each, and see what you're 'in for'. Double the total. Then figure that's the bottom of the range.

You may have done that already. I'm not at all trying to discourage you. One can enjoy the process immensely.

Attached is a pic of my '63
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