Fuel pump woes -- '64 Impala - Impala Tech
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  #1  
Old 04-26-2011, 11:18 AM
bowtyebob bowtyebob is offline
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Default Fuel pump woes -- '64 Impala

Seems as if I am making a career changing fuel pumps. The car is a '64 327/300HP and it is on it's 3rd (original style replacement rebuildable type) fuel pump. The original pump was replaced when I built the engine ....just because it was 47 years old. The (pressed in) pivot pin on that replacement pump eventually started working out so I replaced the pump rather than driving the pin back in since it would only work its way out again. The next fuel pump (number 3) made me call a roll back after the engine shut off 30 miles from home. When I disassembled that pump I found that one of the valves had simply fallen out and was laying on top of the diaphram.
Now, with replacement pump #3 I noticed that oil had accumulated on the bottom of the pump to the point of dripping. There was no oil coming out of the weep hole at the top of the pump. The only oil was at the very bottom. I tightend the two screws on the bottom of the pump and so far after about 150 miles it is still oil tight. The were alreay quite tight. All I managed to accomplish was to tighten them further; less that an eighth of a turn.
I am concerned about two things. First, if the screws weren't tight enough to begin with, they will probably be the source of a leak again.
Second, upon further thought, I do not know if there should be any oil accumulated in the bottom (below the bottom gasket) of the fuel pump in the first place. Is that normal? I don't think so.
These Airtech pumps at about 57 bucks apiece.
Am I the only one to experience this? Any thoughts or knowledge or experience or suggestions from anyone?
Thanks,
Bob
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:03 PM
Fossil_Fuel Fossil_Fuel is offline
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Bob,
Your story is not giving me a good feeling. I still have the original pump that the General Installed at the factory and the last few years I have been thinking about rebuilding or replacing it. Mine is also on a 64 327/300 so I await your solution.
Sorry I can't help but I am interested in any resolution you find.
I think I will just keep a spare with me and rebuild the original when it finally gives up.
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:18 PM
bowtyebob bowtyebob is offline
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That is EXACTLY what I would suggest. ....and what I should have done. Unfortunately somewhere along the line, although I have searched for it, I seem to have lost the original pump. Grrr.
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:44 PM
dcairns dcairns is offline
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If it comes down to rebuilding what you got, I have heard good things about this guy's kits
http://www.classicpreservation.com/fuelpumpkits.html
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Old 04-26-2011, 01:28 PM
Big Dave Big Dave is offline
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As to the oil are you referring to oil accumulating in the fuel pump boss. If so this is normal and it will pool there as it has a restrictive return oil path. It shouldn't leak if you used a gasket and your mounting plate is flat (as in not warped). The 1/4-20 bolts torque down to 34 inch pounds, and they have a double star washer to hold them tight so that they do not loosen up over time.

Few replacement parts are made to the same standard of quality demanded by the General back when these cars where new. Part of the problem lies with the policy of your local parts store. That policy is they will cheerfully give you a replacement part if it proves defective. (notice that they don't offer to pay your labor bill to R&R the part or your towing bill)

This is because you are the QC department. Rather than paying someone to verify that they have good parts on the shelf the way GM did it with statistical testing of received parts; they just assume that they will have a limited number of known bad parts that they will sell to you and if you happen get one that is bad it is just your bad luck. They will give you a good one (they think with a 96% assurance of being correct) to replace it. This keeps their cost down and profits high. We accept this policy by buying cheap (it is why Wally World exists; every one knows it is bad for the common man but everyone still shops there hoping someone else will buy elsewhere else to correct the problem).

When I shop I avoid Discount any brand store and look at all of the NAPA parts I buy to see where it is made. If it isn't made in North America (I used to say made in the USA, but I have had to relent recently with NAFTA) I won't buy it. Period. I will do without or rework something else to make it work.

Big Dave
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Old 04-26-2011, 01:53 PM
bowtyebob bowtyebob is offline
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Thanks, Dave.
....and Yes, I leaned long ago that unless one enjoys swapping out 'warranteed' parts, one should avoid the discount auto parts stores which is why I usuall only deal with NAPA. Oh, did I mention that my Airtech pumps came from the CarQuest store?
'Shoulda kept and rebuilt my original AC pump. Shame on me.
A-n-y-w-a-y,......
I am not certain about what you refer to as the "fuel pump boss". This oil leak is the gasket that seals the bottom 'cup'(?) to the valve assembly above it and is retained with two slotted screws. Are those the 1/4X20s that you mentioned?
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:06 PM
bowtyebob bowtyebob is offline
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Dave,
I was faily sure that that there shouldn't even be any oil below the bottom gasket and accumulating in the cup that is retained to the valve assembly above it with the two (now over thightened) screws. Are we suggesting that I replace this Airtech pump with a genuine AC from say Corvette Central, ....like I should have done in the beginning?
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:23 PM
Big Dave Big Dave is offline
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I believe so.

I use a Holley high volume (part number 12-327-25 rated at 170 gallons per hour) pump whenever I have to use a mechanical pump (three valve pump with adjustable spring pressure).

I generally rely on an electric pump (Aeromotive A2000) as they are reliable and flow a large volume of fuel that is pressurized from the tank forward (with a matching return line). I do not like a dead head fuel delivery system as it heats the fuel (and if it is a mechanical pump it heats it even more as the engine heat is transfered to the fuel by the aluminum pump body which is an excellent conductor of heat or electricity). You can buy a submersible pump that is quieter that is part of your fuel pump pick up and fuel gage sending unit that just drops into your fuel tank in place of the stock pick-up and fuel gage sending unit. But they are rarely as cheap as a replacement A-C fuel pump.

Big Dave
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:34 PM
bowtyebob bowtyebob is offline
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Thanks again. Dave.
I agree and if I wasn't trying to keep my '64 "as delivered" the Aeomotive unit would be the way to go.
This time I will simply call Corvette Central, bite the bullet, pay the $124 for "correct" fuel pump with 'AC' cast on the top and bottom and hope for the best.
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