Hello all, I purchased a 1963 Impala SS 327/250 powerglide - in May 2011 which had been in storage for 37 years. So far i have replaced the fuel tank, fuel lines, brake lines, master cylinder and rebuilt the starter. I'm at the point of replacing the wheel cylinders/brake shoes and getting the Rochester 4GC carb rebuilt. My question is - since the engine hasn't ran in many years, what is the best solution to lubricate the cylinders/piston rings? Motor is not stuck since im able to turn by hand. Any advice?
Once you have drained the old lubricants and replaced them with dead dyno oil, not synthetic oil: you need to mark the distributor location on the intake manifold with a punch and the rotor in relation to the distributor body with a marker. Then pull the distributor and use a Chevy oil pre-oiler tool with a half inch hand drill to pre-lubricate the motor. Then you need to remove all of the plugs and spin the motor over with the starter motor to lubricate the piston pins and the cam and cam lobes where the tappets rub.
Don't forget to change the oil and filter in your PowerGlide. It has had more than enough time for all of the oil seals to dry out now ,and will probably leak like a sieve until rebuilt. This is because I doubt that the seals will ever swell up enough again to seal before they tear or burn out. But it is worth the try.
New points and condenser and new plug wires would probably help to bring it to life once the carb is rebuilt. The 4GC was a much unloved carb in it's day and everyone except your mom and her maiden aunt were quick to trash it in favor of a Carter AVS or the new fangled four barrel carburetor that Ford was using; the Holley. Both required a shiny new aluminum intake manifold as the 4GC intake was a alone in it's design.
Thanks for the info Big Dave! I'll pre-lubricate the motor and change the tranny fluid.. As far as the carb, i plan on keeping the car as original as possible so i'll keep the Rochester and get it rebuilt by Mike's carb shop. I've heard its a good carb if rebuilt right and ive also heard that its a piece crap.
Dave- What do you think of the idea of putting some oil in each cylinder while the plugs are out? Might make things a bit smokey for a minute when it starts, but might also help with some initial lubrication.
Marvel Mystery Oil or even WD-40 will work to help lube the rings in the land (piston Groove).
That will be the biggest problem as if any moisture got into the motor, you can break it free with a lot of force, but the rings are welded in the lands causing issues with a square peg in a round hole come time to fire it up. The piston rings have to be free to conform to the cylinder and to bend (flex) to seal the rings to the lands. A simple compression test can tell you if your rings are stuck or not.
Hello All, Well im sure i turned the engine over a few times about 3 years ago and now it is STUCK!! I tried soaking the pistons (3 weeks) with PB blaster, WD40, Liquid Wrench and ATF but can't break it loose. I removed the valve covers to see if the rocker arms or pushrods would give me any clues, but all looks fine. I also removed the fuel pump just in case. Anyone have any ideas?
You may well be fighting a loosing battle attempting to overcome the results of corrosion through the electrochemical properties of dissimilar metals in the presence of an electric field “galvanizing” or seizing solid. Aluminum and ferrous metals can not be left in close proximity in the presence of water. The water is in the air in the form of humidity. The close proximity is the fact that the oil that separated the rings from the ring lands has long since evaporated. The galvanic action is partially due to the battery, but given time just the two dissimilar metals in close proximity forms a weak battery that with transfer electrons from The least reactive metal to the most electronegative metal.
Once the parts are seized solid nothing will reverse the process: at least while the parts are still assembled. The ring lands when not pitted and corroded as yours are now, are also worn to the point were the rings do not seal in a normal motor this is why pistons are considered a consumable part and are replaced when you rebuild a motor.
This motor will need to be disassembled by hand and rebuilt if it is important to do so. If it is not worth it from a performance point of view (a 283 or 305 for example) then pull it and save it as the "born with motor" by bagging it after draining the fluids. Then find a bigger bore motor (a SBC 400 or a 350) to rebuild that will offer better performance and you will not have to worry about hurting the engine.
It might be time to think big and buy a 454 out of a pick-up truck. The advantage of owning a big car is they always had a big motor as an option going back to 1958. A big block bolts right in with only minor changes to accommodate the additional power (stronger transmission being one).
This might not be a disaster so much as an opportunity, ... maybe.
Thanks guys - I think i'll try a few other things before i pull the engine. I'm going to remove the heads to see if there's any hope. I'm just not entirely convinced that its seized since i was able to turn 3 years ago. Cars been in my garage in California. I'll post an update soon.