Engine Questions - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Questions

Hello all. Looking under the hood of my 68 I noticed some things that didn't look right.

First pic, the engine ground. This can't be right. The cable is almost taught. Engine rock could snap it. How should this be routed?

Second pic, the coolant sensor lead. Same as the engine ground. How should this be routed?

Third pic, the formed hose from the valve cover to the air cleaner. Is there a source for the fitting in the VC and the hose?

Fourth pic, the hose going into the water pump (bypass?) is crimped at the pump. Wrong fitting or should this be a formed house too? Source for these?

Lots of questions I know. Thanks in advance for any answers.
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1968 Impala SS
496 Stroker
T56 Conversion
3.73 Posi-Trac
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 07:43 PM
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Best best for any rebuilds or restorations if first get a hold of an assembly manual for your car, they are readily available and worth their weight on gold.
Just an example loads of listings on eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/i/290463210894?...D1418489372166
Paul

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1966 Impala SS

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 09:51 PM
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Your ground cable is too tight because your replacement battery has the polarity of the battery posts reversed. So the cable has to stretch across an eight inch wide box to make a connection. Luckily the motor will rock towards the battery instead of away from it. Still the cable won't pull out off the water pump bolt; instead the entire post will be ripped off of the battery, which could cause an electrical fire.

The hose going to the valve cover from the air cleaner is there to allow clean filtered air to enter the motor to replace what is being sucked out of the crankcase by engine vacuum through the PCV . If you see that hose collapse it is time to change the fiber filter inside the air cleaner as it is obstructed.

Your bypass hose (the hose above the water pump that goes into the front cross-over coolant passage in the intake manifold) looks fine. The BBC has a bypass hose that bypasses the thermostat; the SBC uses an additional hole cast into the block and a drilled into the water pump that connects the water pump to the coolant passages.

The wire that sends voltage to the temperature sender looks ok, but it can be lengthened if need be by butt splicing in a bit more wire. It, the temperature gauge, works by measuring voltage to ground. So like your oil pressure gauge, and your gas gauge, they are just volt meters measuring the twelve volts nominal power to ground.

As such a good ground is essential. There are three other un-insulated braided copper flat cables that connect the frame to the engine, the engine to the body and the engine to the dash ground under the dash. This is in addition to the ground cable from the battery to the engine block (which has to be free of paint to make a good ground). These cables are rarely replaced when a motor is pulled and replaced by amateur mechanics.

Every time some one posts "My gas gauge doesn't work"; we all yell back check the grounds! Same goes for tail lamps, or brake light problems.

Big Dave
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-18-2018, 10:26 AM
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And the battery cables are obviously wrong. GM never had those kind of cable ends that are attached to the battery connector with bolts & a clamp.


& GET an Assembly Manual.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-18-2018, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sz0k30 View Post
And the battery cables are obviously wrong. GM never had those kind of cable ends that are attached to the battery connector with bolts & a clamp.

& GET an Assembly Manual.
True the battery cable from the factory was a one piece molded terminal, but that isn't as much of a problem as the size. The factory didn't go to a 4 gauge ground cable until 1971, prior to that they used a 2 sized cable back in 1968.

The lack of easy to find copper ore prompted the change to a smaller sized cable, not a drop in amperage. The power was actually increasing year by year as more electrical devices were added to the cars.

I used to use 00 molded cables as they were still available at NAPA to repair older six volt systems on cars in the sixties. Today I use 00 gauge Taylor wire in 25 foot lengths as I need a wire that large to get full voltage with a battery in the trunk of an Impala. The larger the wire gauge the more current it can carry without a noticeable voltage drop.

Big Dave
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-18-2018, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all for the replies.
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