1968 Impala Repower Thread - Page 2 - Impala Tech
Engine General Engine Discussion.

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post #26 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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Intake installed, valve covers changed to tall OEM style for roller rocker clearance, water pump installed and now aligning the bellhousing.
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post #27 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 10:26 AM
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I used to build my engines to look as stock as possible and put them in a non-obvious car body not associated with performance (like a late model four door Caprice taxi cab). It was a policy known as building a sleeper. I used stock valve covers even with roller rockers, only going to the tall valve covers if I ran a stud girdle (required for high RPM operation with a solid roller cam). So if the engine had a hydraulic roller I ran stock covers with my roller rockers.

Crane, Comp, Isky all sell "short" rocker arm stud polylock adjusting nuts to clear the stock valve covers. (they also make you buy tall polylock adjusting nuts for a stud girdle leaving middle height polylocks that they ship with roller rockers being useless. Drives me nuts to throw them away to buy either a taller set or a shorter set.

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post #28 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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I'll be looking to have her running this weekend. What is an acceptable/typical level of exhaust back pressure just to have a reference? I'm running 2" shorty headers and Walker mufflers, which are close to stock. No catalytic converter (obviously), 2.5" pipe, and no resonators or crossovers.
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post #29 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 02:12 PM
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A stock car (no radical cam and the cast iron manifolds have heat crossovers to split any back pressure) can run with up to seven pounds of back pressure. Equivalent to a thoroughly clogged converter, or Eddie Murphy sticking a potato up the tail pipe. With your situation I would expect 1.5 to 1.75 inches of back pressure.

You can weld in a oxygen sensor bung into your header pipe and run a pressure gauge up to the cowl if you want to monitor it (use brass tubing instead of the white nylon tubing that comes with the fuel pressure gauge). It takes a gauge with a 0-14 psi range to be sensitive enough to register any back pressure.

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post #30 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-21-2019, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Dave.
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post #31 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Pic of the oil pan.
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post #32 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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Bellhousing aligned, clutch and pressure plate installed, ready for installation. Will have her running tomorrow.

ETA I didn't have to align the bellhousing. I measured and it was within spec. QuickTime makes some very tightly toleranced parts.
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post #33 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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My crate engine came with oil in it - it's 20W50. The oil is almost an olive drab green with a reddish tint to it. Does anyone know if this is an additive of some sort for new engines or does 20W50 just look like this? More curious than anything really... Thanks.
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post #34 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 01:12 PM
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Green oil is from Brad-Penn formerly Kendal GT. Additive shouldn't be distinguishable once mixed with the oil because it will be so diluted. Are you sure that green color isn't coolant (different viscosity than oil), with the brown being engine oil?

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post #35 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Dave, the engine was shipped with oil and nothing else - I'm still in the process of getting it running but haven't added any coolant. The pic in the previous post was taken with the oil (or whatever it is) draining and the engine on the hoist. I have new 20W50 to put in it now.

T56 bolted up
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post #36 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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On the hoist
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post #37 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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She's in, finally. Not without a fight though. I had to remove the entire front fascia - grill, bumper, etc. to get the engine far back enough to mount it to the frame. I had to also remove the centerlink to get the pan to clear. There are some very tight clearances now between the pan and centerlink and pan and frame.

In my industry we provide 19 mm of clearance to surrounding components to account for 2.5 of engine rotation about the crank centerline (this is for Cummins and Detroit Diesel engines) . No way I have that here. Hope it's enough.
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post #38 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 07:15 PM
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With a Diesel engine you have to constrain them with motor mounts that interlock. Go to any parts store and ask for a Chevy motor mount and they will sell you one designed for a 1969-'72 307 glued together rubber mount (vulcanized) that will split as soon as any engine with more than 300 horsepower is cranked up. Up to you to catch the flying motor before it breaks something or it pulls the throttle rod to WOT (which is why this mount was recalled in 1968 as being a defective design). The counter man will tell you that this was the only motor mount ever made and it will fit your older car (I won't). Chevy also had a HD motor mounts used on any engine that was rated above 300 horsepower. It also interlocks but requires a different frame mount to lower the motor mount. Because of this your parts man won't make a sale for the correct motor mount so he sells you the wrong mount.

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post #39 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-27-2019, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Sanderson block - hugger ceramic coated headers installed. I highly recommend these - they have clearance to the steering gear and A-arms almost like they were custom made for my car. The driver side was a little tricky - I covered the tubes with masking tape to prevent scratches.
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post #40 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Does anyone have any ideas about how to increase clearance between the oil pan and engine cradle? I thought about putting some grade 8 washers in between the frame stands and cradle. Not much, but better than what it is.

Also the pan clearance to the centerlink? I thought about either trying to dent the pan to create clearance or affix some kind of rubber bumper to the pan to stop centerlink travel. It's not a major interference - I think the steering is right at the extent of its travel, but would like a little clearance for insurance.

Thanks for any replies.

ETA pic of very little clearance between pan and cradle.
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Last edited by 68WASAGOODYEAR; 05-28-2019 at 02:53 PM.
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post #41 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 03:25 PM
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I take black Iron steam pipe and cut it to length the get stand offs iff I need to space something.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southland-P...ipe/1000227949

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post #42 of 70 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Update: Tristar is shipping me a new Moroso oil pan that should solve my clearance issues. Will update with pics when I have it.
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post #43 of 70 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 04:42 PM
 
 
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Yes please update what oil pan ends up working for you. Thanks
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post #44 of 70 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 09:27 AM
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What part number headers from Sanderson are you using?

Also, how is the ground clearance?

1969 Imapala convertible build thread here:
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ghlight=impala
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post #45 of 70 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the Summit link:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SNH-BB10-SEC

SNH-BB10-SEC is the part number. They are shorty block hugger headers, so ground clearance is not an issue. Full - length headers were not an option as they would not work with the Dart heads since they have raised exhaust ports.
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post #46 of 70 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 06:29 PM
 
 
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Here is the pan I was told will fit gen 6 454 and the 67-69 Impala.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-30975
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post #47 of 70 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roc1616 View Post
Here is the pan I was told will fit gen 6 454 and the 67-69 Impala.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-30975
I installed a Milodon 30970 on my 69. Fit is perfect.

1969 Imapala convertible build thread here:
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ghlight=impala

Last edited by justjohn; 06-06-2019 at 09:18 AM. Reason: Corrected part number.
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post #48 of 70 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Does it have enough clearance to the engine cradle? That's my biggest issue. I will be able to tell if the new Moroso pan is going to work by taking a few simple measurements. Nice to have a back-up to pan the back-up pan. Thanks.
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post #49 of 70 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68WASAGOODYEAR View Post
Does it have enough clearance to the engine cradle? That's my biggest issue. I will be able to tell if the new Moroso pan is going to work by taking a few simple measurements. Nice to have a back-up to pan the back-up pan. Thanks.
I'm going to retract what I said above. I checked my Summit order history to make sure I'm giving you correct information. I installed this oil pan with zero fit or clearance issues on my 69:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-30970

Still have a generous air gap at the center link at full lock and similar to OE clearance in the cradle.

1969 Imapala convertible build thread here:
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ghlight=impala
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post #50 of 70 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 10:08 AM
 
 
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I believe the Milodon #30970 is for a gen 4 454 and the #30975 is for the gen 6. That’s what I got for my 67 gen 6 454. I’m still having sump length shortened 1inch. Won’t be ready to put in for few weeks but will update when I do.
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