1968 Impala Repower Thread - Page 3 - Impala Tech
Engine General Engine Discussion.

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post #51 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Pics of the new pan attached. Note the stamped part number below "Moroso". This pan is 1/2" shallower in the front and the dimension from the sump to the front of the pan is 15" vs.12", so this should have plenty of clearance to the cradle and centerlink. Will post more pics when I get it in.

ETA: link to the pan
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-20412/
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1968 Impala SS
496 Stroker
T56 Conversion
3.73 Posi-Trac
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post #52 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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New pan is in. I now have half an inch clearance to the engine cradle and clearance to the centerlink is good as well. Problem fixed. Now on to somehow getting enough clearance between the engine and hood. This might be the real tricky part.
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1968 Impala SS
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post #53 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68WASAGOODYEAR View Post
New pan is in. I now have half an inch clearance to the engine cradle and clearance to the centerlink is good as well. Problem fixed. Now on to somehow getting enough clearance between the engine and hood. This might be the real tricky part.
Shouldn't be. BBC was offered as an option so there was room for it from the factory. Only thing that might be an issue is a taller intake manifold such as a tunnel ram. Look at the Edelebrock technical pages for dimensions of the stock manifolds since Edelbrock retained them for their dual plane four barrel intakes. If you are running a Dart or Victor single plane then it will be taller so you need a dropped base air cleaner to close your flat hood.

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post #54 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Dave, its an edelbrock air gap intake, which is dual plane but not any kind of tunnel ram or anything. There *might* be 2.5" to the top surface of the fenders (hood is still off at this point) . Attached is a pic of the 3" K&N filter on the 1" drop base I have and just eyeballing it you can tell there is no way the hood will close. I'm honestly not sure how this happened. It's not a tall deck block or anything.

ETA: carb pad height on the edelbrock intake is 5.22". I'm not sure how this compares to the stock cast iron intake.
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1968 Impala SS
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T56 Conversion
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post #55 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 02:04 PM
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The RPM Air gap is 0.37 inches taller than the original Winters High Rise four barrel intake. If you have a one inch drop base you have more than half an inch more room than a stock 427 install under the hood.

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post #56 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Dave, did all 427 cars get the blister hood? Is that the difference in clearance? Thanks.

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post #57 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68WASAGOODYEAR View Post
Dave, did all 427 cars get the blister hood? Is that the difference in clearance? Thanks.
No only the special order 427 SS got a blister hood a 427 powered Impala SS had a flat hood. A true 427 SS blister hood costs more than most people's finished project cars due to the rarity of this unique part.

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post #58 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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What is "acceptable" in terms of belt alignment? The attached pic isn't very good in terms of showing it, but the power steering pulley and accessory pulley aren't even close to being coplanar....thanks for any replies.

ETA: better pic of the belt misalignment from the passenger side added.
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1968 Impala SS
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T56 Conversion
3.73 Posi-Trac

Last edited by 68WASAGOODYEAR; 06-16-2019 at 03:55 PM.
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post #59 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 10:34 PM
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Mis-matched pulleys. SBC water pump bolts onto a BBC water pump, but the belts will not align. Had a similar problem and I bought a custom billet March aluminum P/S pump pulley to fix the problem. Painted black it will "pass" for a stock part.

I grew so tired of fighting these battles that I would buy a full set of March or Zoops pulleys and brackets to fit a long water pump. After a while I realized there was no need to even retain a V-belt so I went to five to seven rib serpentine pullet sets. Never ran a V-belt since then.

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post #60 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Dave. I have ordered new brackets from Tuff Stuff and a new pulley and will report back on if this solves the issue.

Now for some good news. The T56 mounts up to the factory crossmember with no modifications whatsoever. I'm super-pumped about this; I was planning on having to cut and reweld the mounts to the frame. See attached pic.
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post #61 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Can any of you 4-speed guys tell me how - in the future - when I need to verify correct teeth engagement between the starter and flywheel I'm supposed to do that when there is no access to this area with the starter mounted to the block? See attached and note the spherical piece welded on to the QT bellhousing. I looked at some of the older 4-speed Lakewood bellhousings and they were the same. I called the Holley tech line and the answer was "... Uh, good question..."

I cannot be the first person to ever wonder about this... Thanks for any replies.
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post #62 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 11:47 AM
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Agree it is a solid steel box, with no access. So are you having issues with it grinding? If it ain't broke and all of that.

If you are; then the only way to shim the starter is to pull the tranny and bell housing (leave block plate with a bolt or two to keep it off the rear main seal). You then shim ithe starter according the amount of gap you have between the teeth (I use a medium paper clip as a gage).

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post #63 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Dave, no issues now but I'm thinking about eventual starter changes /service. It seems crazy that for a manual transmission you would have to basically pull the engine for a starter change, which would take an hour at most on an automatic.
I'm thinking about maybe grinding the 4 small welds of the spherical piece and tacking it back on when the time comes....

1968 Impala SS
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post #64 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 10:26 PM
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a good observation. It seems that the expectation is to mount the starter and check prior to new tranny/bellhousing installation.

Glad you shared this so that I'll know it for the future!

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
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post #65 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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I will definitely be cutting off the starter pocket and either tacking it back on or welding tabs to it and then drilling and tapping holes in the bell. Starters are wear/service items that have to be replaced at some point and its simply unacceptable to me to have to remove the transmission & bellhousing whenever the need arises.

Hell I won't know if the brand new starter I put on the engine works until I key on, and if it is a faulty unit, then what? Spend the weekend disconnecting everything from the engine, tilting it up and removing the trans, bellhousing, and driveshaft? Nosiree, not this guy. That starter pocket is coming off!!!

1968 Impala SS
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T56 Conversion
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post #66 of 111 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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I managed to grind off the four 0.5" long welds holding the starter pocket onto the bellhousing. Only took a few minutes. My plan is to just tack weld it back on in three places to make it even easier to access this area in the future as required.

Is there any risk to the engine or transmission doing this? The engine and transmission are sitting in the mounts with only two ground straps connecting them to the chassis/body. Nothing else is connected at this point.

Thanks for any replies.

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post #67 of 111 (permalink) Old 07-05-2019, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Is it "OK" if my thermostat is sitting higher than the radiator top tank? If I understand the cooling circuit correctly, the coolant flows from the intake into the top of the radiator, so the slope shouldn't hurt....right?

Thanks for any replies.
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post #68 of 111 (permalink) Old 07-05-2019, 05:08 PM
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If the outlet is higher than the radiator then you will have to park the car at an angle to bleed the cooling system, or ....

Buy a late model mid 80's or so thermostat housing that would normally have a heat activated vacuum valve in the top of the cast housing, and use a pipe plug to bleed the coolant system sitting level at any time.

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post #69 of 111 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Can anyone tell me if the rear exhaust pipes are supposed to go in front of or behind the pan hard bar? I cannot remember and the assembly manual does not show the two together in the same image. Thanks for any replies.
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post #70 of 111 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 04:25 PM
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They do NOT run between the Panhard bar and the axle. You can dump them in front of the rear axle or up and over the axle to run out the back, out side the frame rails clearing the gas tank and the fuel lines.

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post #71 of 111 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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Can anyone recommend a coolant fill procedure for a completely dry engine and radiator? The assembly manual doesn't cover this as far as I can tell. Should I fill the radiator and then just keep refilling it with the engine running? Want to be careful not to overheat with aluminum heads...

Another update: the ECU on the Holley EFI was unresponsive. Sent back to holley for repair (hopefully not at my expense). This might delay startup for a week or so. Go ahead, Dave. Let me have it 😬.

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post #72 of 111 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 11:22 AM
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I run engines on a dyno before I put them in a car to tune, break in a cam and find any issues. I then take the engine and put it in the car and fill the radiator to replace what I spilled.

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post #73 of 111 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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Will be firing up the 496 for the first time this weekend. Super excited. Can anyone tell me what oil pressure number or range I should be looking for? Thanks for any replies.

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post #74 of 111 (permalink) Old 07-25-2019, 11:34 AM
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20 or more at idle. Normally add 10 psi for every thousand RPM the motor picks up to a max of 60 psi where the by pass valve opens.

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post #75 of 111 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Last hurdle. I think. In the attached pic, the empty spot in the fuse block labeled "IGN":

Should this have 12V with the key in the "Run" position as well as when cranking? Currently I get zilch at both key positions. All the fuses look OK. I'm stumped. Thanks for any replies.
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1968 Impala SS
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T56 Conversion
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