Oil Fill Options... BBC - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-28-2019, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Hello all,
I've been looking at new cast aluminum valve covers for the 496 BBC in my '68, and one thing I've noticed almost across the board is that the ones I like do not have a provision for an oil filler cap - these seem to be PCV only. My intake does not have an oil fill either. So how does everyone fill their oil after a change? Down the dipstick tube? Thanks for any replies.

ETA: the covers I like are also finned, so drilling a hole doesn't seem like a good idea, especially considering the cost.

1968 Impala SS
496 Stroker
T56 Conversion
3.73 Posi-Trac

Last edited by 68WASAGOODYEAR; 12-28-2019 at 08:49 PM.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-28-2019, 08:33 PM
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You can drill a hole in one of the valve covers that will be in the back of the engine (out of site) then TIG weld into the valve cover an aluminum elbow. Onto this elbow you can route a hose to a remote oil air separator and fill point.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...SABEgJxDfD_BwE

Then you run a hose (or better yet an aluminum half inch tube down past the headers to location that you can then route a hose into your oil pan (another drilled hole with a bulkhead fitting sealed with O-rings this time) onto another elbow with a hose barb.

The rubber hose (or aluminum tube with an A/N fitting) goes into the bottom where the petcock is now. You pull off the recleanable air filter to install oil, that drains down the half inch line to the oil pan.

The obvious reason for an aluminum line is the heat from the headers will melt the rubber hose and the hole in the line will dump oil on your headers creating a fire that will burn your car to the ground. Which is the reason I didn't choose this product recommended for Chevy trucks and Mustangs:

https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/85...yABEgIWHfD_BwE

Big Dave
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-29-2019, 06:21 PM
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You run a good composite rubber Fel Pro gasket and simply take the cover off to do an oil fill.

Two doors, four doors, wagons, and ragtops.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-29-2019, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayoldschool View Post
You run a good composite rubber Fel Pro gasket and simply take the cover off to do an oil fill.
I'd rather not have to remove the valve cover. I'm currently using the composite Fel-Pro gaskets and had a hell of a time getting them to seal... still had to use silicone. That might have something to do with the stamped steel valve covers I have now. Maybe the cast aluminum ones will seal better?

1968 Impala SS
496 Stroker
T56 Conversion
3.73 Posi-Trac
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-29-2019, 08:18 PM
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They will indeed seal better. More even clamping pressure all the way around.

Two doors, four doors, wagons, and ragtops.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-29-2019, 08:32 PM
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Won't address the other issue of no PCV valve or vent. Blow by pressure will blow out front and rear seal and cause valve cove gaskets to leak.

Big Dave
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-29-2019, 11:23 PM
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From his original post:
Quote:
these seem to be PCV only

Two doors, four doors, wagons, and ragtops.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020, 09:48 AM
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You could just pull the pvc valve and use a funnel to fill the oil through the pvc hole. That's depending on how the valve covers are baffled of course.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020, 11:50 AM
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I have a 350 that has nice cast aluminum valve covers with ribs on the outside. one has a hole with a rubber bushing for the pcv valve. and the other one has the same and I used that for an edelbrock oil fill cap with a breather. If one valve cover is solid with no hole you can put in a hole on a milling machine for a rubber bushing for the oil fill cap. You need to use a mill to get thru the ribs first then the hole. I could do that for you for free. You would just have to pay for the shipping. Wayne
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wk2hons View Post
I have a 350 that has nice cast aluminum valve covers with ribs on the outside. one has a hole with a rubber bushing for the pcv valve. and the other one has the same and I used that for an edelbrock oil fill cap with a breather. If one valve cover is solid with no hole you can put in a hole on a milling machine for a rubber bushing for the oil fill cap. You need to use a mill to get thru the ribs first then the hole. I could do that for you for free. You would just have to pay for the shipping. Wayne
Thank you for the offer. The attached are what I'm looking at - I think the blank area above the finned part is there for an oil fill cap hole to be drilled out. I'd need to have these in-hand to be sure. I *think* I might be able to fill the crankcase through the dipstick - it's a Moroso dipstick and when you remove the dipstick, the tube has an expanded part at the end you might be able to put the end of the funnel in. Might take a while though.

ETA: do you need PCV valves in BOTH covers to properly vent the crankcase?
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1968 Impala SS
496 Stroker
T56 Conversion
3.73 Posi-Trac
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020, 03:21 PM
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The pic's that you show have a flat spot on both valve covers. You only need one for the pcv valve. The other will work for a vented oil fill cap. You just have to come up with the right size rubber bushings to fit snug in the holes. Then one is for the pcv valve and the other for the fill cap.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020, 03:29 PM
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Looking back at your pictures I see the holes that are there and the flat spots. If the holes are above a baffle you may have to use the flat spots for other hole. Maybe the holes that are there are for a breather vent. They will need to be plugged with something. Figure out what you need and my offer still stands. I am a retired toolmaker, always looking for something to do.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-02-2020, 03:55 PM
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Here are some reproduction (but not good reproductions since they are missing the drippers above each rocker ball). They do show the screw in (quarter turn) oil fill cap.

https://www.amazon.com/Chevy-396-427.../dp/B005HYBUQW

In the case of your covers you pull one PCV grommet and substitute a push in rubber oil fill plug.

https://www.grainger.com/product/35P...g!469961822140!

By the way Grainger sells their plug for $1.93 while most others sell the same part for $7.98

Big Dave
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-03-2020, 09:06 PM
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Here's how mine are.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sz0k30 View Post
Here's how mine are.
Those are a set of CalCustom covers that were used on Baldwin-Motion's Camaros. If the oil fill had not been popped out already (there was a thinned portion of the casting to allow you to get a functioning hole by popping out the CalCustom logo and filing to fit). Those were my favorite brand of valve covers (I hated the Mickey Thompson squared versions) except for the paper thin stamped out of aluminum foil Motoso covers that I used to reduce weight.

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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 01:32 PM
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I should mention that on one of my small blocks, I use a set of valve covers with one opening/per. I use PCV on one side, a push in breather on the other. I take out the breather and pour in the oil right through the separator. Works fine.

Two doors, four doors, wagons, and ragtops.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-04-2020, 08:01 PM
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I should have mentioned that's how I do mine. I just pull off the driver's side breather.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 09:00 AM
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That,s how I do mine also.
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