454 Big block Oil capacity - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-06-2020, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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66 Big block oil pan fitment, dipstick & Oil cap

I am finishing up my big block engine swap in my 66 impala and getting close to starting the engine.

The engine had oil in from the builder from which I purchased the engine months ago.

The engine is a IV 454 big block I think 73 or 74 casting # 351959 with a "Stock type" "See picture below"oil pan with an aftermarket mr. gasket dipstick I do not trust.

I'm trying to figure out the oil capacity. The pan I believe is a 4 quart pan but I drained out 6 quarts without draining the filter. The after market dipstick showed full.

I think it may have had too much oil in it.

What should my oil capacity be, with and without filter??










Ted

Last edited by brickwhite; 05-28-2020 at 04:40 PM.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-06-2020, 12:22 PM
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I don't have the answer for you, but:
- aftermarket dip sticks are often wrong for the level
- you will be able to run a much longer oil filter, upping your filtering and capacity

Two doors, four doors, wagons, and ragtops.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-06-2020, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like the

ACDELCO PF932 {#25010754}
and
WIX 51794 or 51045

Should fit with extra 1 quart capacity.

Ted
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-06-2020, 03:13 PM
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What vehicle did your oil pan come out of? It changes the oil pan.

The only way to know for certain is to have the part number for the pan.

The other option is pull the pan and fix your dip stick.

1969 Impala convertible build thread here:
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ghlight=impala
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-06-2020, 03:50 PM
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The 292 six cylinder truck filter used a ACDelco 25010754 Oil Filter. It held a full quart of oil in the canister, but was twice as deep (or sticking out from the side of a six) than the standard half quart ACDelco oil filter part number 12696048 (PF-92). The shorty oil filter used on modern cars is even shorter and yet has a longer service life due to EFI keeping gas out of the crankcase were it contaminated the motor oil.

The big block needs a passenger car oil pan, or an aftermarket pan designed for a car. Here is a reproduction pan; though it isn't totally stock as it has dents in the side rail to support a longer than stock stroke (4.250" stroke).

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/5025...CABEgI70fD_BwE

It holds four quarts, IT is only partially baffled and has no trap doors in the sump. The light truck pan holds five quarts as it is a half inch deeper and it has a longer sump that interfere with the front cross-member of a passenger car. Additionally you are as likely to get a one piece rear main seal pan as a two piece pan. Since all big blocks since 1973 have come out of light trucks they all have a truck oil pan that needs to be replaced. Just remember to replace the oil pick up tube with the pan.

A stock dip stick or a BBC passenger car will work with a stock pan. If you change anything fine a longer dip stick out of a van and grind it down to a length that won't bottom out in the pan. Then add three quarts of motor oil. Pull out the dip stick and mark the low oil line. Add the fourth quart and mark the full line. You can cross hatch between the lines with a cold chisel. You can crank it up with an empty oil filter and add oil until it is full. You should have less than a half quart of oil left (that the kwicky oil change places keeps to resell, but in the old days the gas station dumped into your crankcase overfilling it.

Big Dave
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-07-2020, 02:02 AM
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On a side note, does your steering linkage clear the front of the sump on the oil pan when you turn the wheels? It sure looks like it won't clear the pan.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-07-2020, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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It is very close.. however my alignment is way off also with tubular front arms.

What pans clear with no issue on a big block?

Ted
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-07-2020, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
What pans clear with no issue on a big block?
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/5025...CABEgI70fD_BwE

Summit's Version of the stock pan
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3531

Dorman's OEM (stock replacement) oil pan 264-104:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-264-104

Moroso's six quart capacity baffled sump kick out pan:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-20403

Milodon's six quart capacity baffled sump kick out pan:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-30950

Steff's six quart capacity baffled sump kick out pan:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/stf-91088


There are more with deeper sumps and more capacity wet and dry sumps, in steel and aluminum, up to $1,600 in price but the above will meet your needs.

Big Dave
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-07-2020, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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And those won't interfere with my steering? They look alot like the one I have...

Ted
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-08-2020, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brickwhite View Post
It is very close.. however my alignment is way off also with tubular front arms.

What pans clear with no issue on a big block?
On mine I just used an original GM piece intended for a 396/427 B body.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-08-2020, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brickwhite View Post
And those won't interfere with my steering? They look alot like the one I have...
Only way to know is turn lock-to-lock and see if the center link touches. I learned the hard way and had to pull an engine back out to fix it properly.

1969 Impala convertible build thread here:
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ghlight=impala
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-08-2020, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
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Only way to know is turn lock-to-lock and see if the center link touches. I learned the hard way and had to pull an engine back out to fix it properly.
That interference could be due to the wrong motor vibration isolators (those rubber things people call motor mounts, which are actually steel parts that bolt to the frame and the isolators sit upon). Your corner Chinese import auto part store insist upon selling the wrong one for cars made between 1958 and 1968. They sell one made for 1969-'72 that won't fit and lowers the engine lower into the frame.

The “short and wide” 1969-'72 version measures 2⅝ inches between the ears, and 1 inches from the engine mount surface to the center of the mounting-bolt hole. The “tall and narrow” mount used from 1958 through 1968 measures 2⅜ inches between the mount ears, and 2 3/16 inches from the engine mount surface to the center of mounting-bolt hole. That is an inch difference in the installed height of the engine and clearance with your tie rod.

Big Dave
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2020, 12:29 AM
 
 
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Guys - There is no aftermarket big block oil pan that will fit a 65-70 B body without modifications. Nobody makes one!

The correct pan has 2 steps needed to clear the center link.

If someone needs one, I have one available.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-09-2020, 07:35 AM Thread Starter
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I need it!

Ted
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 367s View Post
Guys - There is no aftermarket big block oil pan that will fit a 65-70 B body without modifications. Nobody makes one!

The correct pan has 2 steps needed to clear the center link.

If someone needs one, I have one available.
Sure they do.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...make/chevrolet

Clears the cross member and center link in my '68 just fine.

1968 Impala SS
496 Stroker
T56 Conversion
3.73 Posi-Trac
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 02:49 PM
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Dave I think you just solved this for me. I have the engine sitting here in the garage and the frame stands loose. Sure enough, my mount tabs are bent inward. Now that I see the difference, it's unmistakable. Probably help with some of my header clearance issues too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
That interference could be due to the wrong motor vibration isolators (those rubber things people call motor mounts, which are actually steel parts that bolt to the frame and the isolators sit upon). Your corner Chinese import auto part store insist upon selling the wrong one for cars made between 1958 and 1968. They sell one made for 1969-'72 that won't fit and lowers the engine lower into the frame.

The “short and wide” 1969-'72 version measures 2⅝ inches between the ears, and 1 inches from the engine mount surface to the center of the mounting-bolt hole. The “tall and narrow” mount used from 1958 through 1968 measures 2⅜ inches between the mount ears, and 2 3/16 inches from the engine mount surface to the center of mounting-bolt hole. That is an inch difference in the installed height of the engine and clearance with your tie rod.

Big Dave

1969 Impala convertible build thread here:
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...ghlight=impala

Last edited by justjohn; 04-10-2020 at 04:01 PM.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-10-2020, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like pioneer makes one that fits too.

Pioneer Automotive 501169 OIL PAN

pictures from AMAZON








Ted

Last edited by brickwhite; 04-19-2020 at 12:13 PM.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-16-2020, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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The pioneer came today.

Looks like it should work. $130 shipped!!



vs my old chevelle one.


Ted
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-28-2020, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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That was fun... oil pan gasket used:
-gasket-Fel pro 1884R
-studs-Canton Racing Oil Pan Stud Kits 22-310

Old chevelle pan...


Pioneer pan stepped...






Correct 5 QT dip stick and tube for big block and aformentioned oil pan is as follows.

Tube - $20+ shipping

welded Tab and Oring at bottom.

65-69 396/427 Oil Level Dipstick Tube
Item #: M-2332
At zip corvette or other corvette retailer:

PN- 38-25C at Long island corvette
Dipstick Tube 396/427

Dipstick: $17+ shipping



65-67 396/427 Oil Level Dipstick
Item #: M-2333 at Zip corvette or other parts places..

Ted

Last edited by brickwhite; 05-28-2020 at 04:44 PM.
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-29-2020, 09:41 AM
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