Pg release instructions - Impala Tech
Transmission & Driveline Transmissions & Differentials

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 04:12 AM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
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Pg release instructions

I need to change my transmission for an other powerglide because my old one is slipping when it chanes 1 to 2. Where can i find a step by step instructions? Do i have to remove the turbine? Car is chevrolet impala convertible, 327.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 05:15 AM
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Any time you replace an automatic transmission you also replace the torque converter. Unlike early Ford or Chrysler automatics, the GM torque converters has no drain plug to get rid of the dirty fluid that they contained, So the whole unit has to be replaced with a rebuilt unit or a new one.

The rest of the transmission can be rebuilt once it is removed, or you can buy one already rebuilt for you and give them your old transmission as a core.

Personally unless you have an old cast iron case PowerGlide I would replace it with a TH350. I believe there are a number of differences between the case dimensions and spline count on the out put shaft that have to be addressed to change over to a newer transmission. In such a case I would replace the cast iron PowerGlide with a 700R4 transmission since you are going to be changing the out put yoke, drive shaft length and the mounting point for the transmission rear mount any way to get a new tranny in the car.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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I all ready have another pg in my carage so i put that. Is all the alumin pg transmission like same? I mean that does it fit in place with no problem?
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 06:30 AM
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All aluminum case PowereGlides out of a V8 application are alike. The L6 PowerGlide is made with smaller parts (narrower, lighter, and smaller in diameter internals) that makes it too weak to last behind a V8.

An aluminum case PowerGlide has the rear tranny mount located in the same place; and it is the same over all length, for easy interchange, in place of a Saginaw manual transmission, or a Muncie manual, or a TH350 or 200R4 automatic transmission (the 200R4 uses the TH400 rear transmission mount location). If you only want four out of the seven bolts in the bell housing to bolt up you can also include all of the BOP transmissions as well. BOP stands for Buick-Olds-Pontiac; though it includes Saturn and Cadillac engines. Chevy is the only GM product that has it's own bell housing bolt pattern that differs from all other GM cars.

Big Dave
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 09:25 AM
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I've pulled out and installed several power glide transmissions. The rear seal is notorious for leaking on them.

First thing is to disconnect shifter linkage. (Note: 63 and older console shift cars had the shifter bolted to the transmission for support, so on these cars you have to remove the console and unbolt the shifter and pull it up through the floor to get it out of the way.)

Then remove dust cover and and unbolt converter from fly wheel. This is a pain as you have to remove spark plugs and rotate engine with a breaker bar as to gain access to all the converter bolts. Then wire the converter to the transmission so it doesn't fall off and make a mess on the floor.

Remove transmission cooler lines. pan needed or big mess on the floor again.

Remove kickdown cable or rod depending on year.

I unbolt the U joint so you can remove the yoke from the rear of the transmission.

Support the Transmission on a jack w/block of wood on pan or transmission jack.

Unbolt transmission bellhousing from engine. (Top bolts are a pain unless you have a 3 foot extension with a swivel and a second guy to guide the socket in place.)

Unbolt transmission for crossmember and unbolt crossmember from frame. Slide transmission back about 1-2 inches and lift up until you can remove crossmember.

Transmission should be able to be lowered to floor. If you have the car jacked up far enough you should be able to roll it out on the jack. If not you may need to drop it to the floor on a thin piece of ply wood and slide it out on the plywood.

These are the big steps but I'm probably missing something as it has been about 20 years since I removed one.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 12:37 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Thanks! Good instructions. Now my transmission is down. No mess at the carage floor, and i didnt broke anything yet. Now i realised that the point where i instal the shifter at the transmission is different. Is it posible to change from old one to new? How? And second thing, is it nessesery to instal cooling hoses to the radiator? Or can i just plug them.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vesku View Post
Thanks! Good instructions. Now my transmission is down. No mess at the carage floor, and i didnt broke anything yet. Now i realised that the point where i instal the shifter at the transmission is different. Is it posible to change from old one to new? How? And second thing, is it nessesery to instal cooling hoses to the radiator? Or can i just plug them.
No you need the transmission cooling lines or the new power glide will die a quick and miserable death.

As far as shifter assemblies go the possibilities are endless. If it is a column shift and you plan to keep it on the column I would keep the stock linkage. If you want to go from column to floor shift they make cable shifter kits that can be installed pretty easily for every year except 63 and older with center consoles. These cars require a special shifter assembly currently made by shiftworks to fit the shifter under the extremely low profile center console.

If you currently have a floor shifter I would keep the original shifter as the old shift rods work pretty good. They are just a little bit of a pain to set up initially where as the cable shifters are easy to adjust.
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