whats the right booster - Impala Tech
Brakes & Suspension Conversion Questions & more

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 06:16 AM Thread Starter
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whats the right booster

My car does not have power brakes , what is the right one for my car?
1964 Impala 327 stock with original Carter carb.
E-Bay has tons of them 10 different ones and they all say they are for my car. The car has front disk and drum rear . Not chrome and not a crazy amount of money

this work https://www.ebay.ca/itm/55-64-CHEVY-...19.m1438.l2649

Last edited by you loose; 03-17-2018 at 06:40 AM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 11:15 AM
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You have two options:

Option One is a remanufactured unit that came off another GM product;

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...391&cc=1323863

or taking yours off and sending both booster and master cylinder in to be rebuilt;

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...042&cc=1323863

Now will it fit your car I don't know because some one else has put on disc brakes off of another car onto yours. Like Bilbo Baggins asked Gollum; "what do I have in my pocket?" No way of knowing. But if you send them yours you get yours back agin.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 11:39 AM
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If you don't know, ebay is not the place to find out. On ebay pretty much every part fits every car. Check with the factory chassis or assembly manuals, or find on old style parts store where you have parts guys that actually know what they are talking about and looking for.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 03:37 PM
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For 64 I think from the factory you would have had a 9" Delco Moraine or 9" Bendix. Now that you have converted to disc brakes though things are different and you need to tap into the aftermarket. The brake booster isn't the big issue for you, the big issue is the master cylinder needs to be for disc brakes as disc brakes require a master cylinder with more fluid volume. I would probably go with Classic industries part number A28138 and it should look close to factory and function similar to factory. But that only works if you already have a proportioning valve for the car. You can add a proportioning valve to the set up for about $130 for lines and all kit. Part Number 391350.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 04:06 PM
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If you have no pedal it could also be the result of a poor install.

The brake pedal linkage differs between the 1964 single reservoir master cylinders, and the 1969-'72 brake parts (made in Pakistan, India, or the bad part of Asia) that most vendors source for their brake kits.

If the person that previously installed the brake kit bought his kit based upon price then he gets cheap oversea car parts and they do not provide the proper conversion parts to complete the install such as multiple adjustable piston rods to match the brake pedal to the master cylinder.

Try and use stock parts and the rod might not reach the bottom of the dual master cylinder bore, resulting a spongy pedal with a lot of effort. There are also two holes punched in the hardened steel brake pedal to account for the added stroke of the power assist brakes. If they used the same manual brake hole that could also be an issue. The power assist booster bolts to the fire wall at a different angle to compensate for the change in the angle between the two holes. Pick the wrong hole and the push rod will bind on the master cylinder bore.

There are allot of factors beside price that are involved in adding disc brakes to an older car.

Big Dave
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 12:59 PM
 
 
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Need some advice, installed roller rockers on my 1966 396,had to go with taller valve covers,now the drivers side cover wonít clear the new brake booster because itís mounts project it farther forward. Does anyone have any ideas?
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick View Post
Need some advice, installed roller rockers on my 1966 396,had to go with taller valve covers,now the drivers side cover won’t clear the new brake booster because it’s mounts project it farther forward. Does anyone have any ideas?
Welcome to the Team Mick!

Don't buy aluminum roller rockers. The aluminum work hardens and cracks, and they are too big (made bigger because aluminum is a lot weaker than steel) to fit under a stock cover. Also it is probably the adjustment nut that is hitting the valve cover and not the rocker body, though that might hit also. The cam companies sell shorter adjustable poly-lock nuts.

I use chrome-moly steel body roller rockers and they fit just fine under a stock rocker cover. They are as light as the aluminum rocker, and will not metal fatigue in the time the motor lasts. They are also stronger than aluminum rockers to withstand the high valve spring pressure of a solid lifter radical lift roller cam.

It you want another solution then you can go with a dual nine inch power booster, or a Hydraboost brake system off of a diesel van or light truck. New rockers are the cheaper of the two choices.

Big Dave
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick View Post
Need some advice, installed roller rockers on my 1966 396,had to go with taller valve covers,now the drivers side cover won’t clear the new brake booster because it’s mounts project it farther forward. Does anyone have any ideas?
Try these from CFR Performance. They have the recessed rear corner to clear your booster and have the OEM look. FYI, I did not need the recessed corner on the set I bought. They were tall enough to clear the 1.7 rockers in my 496 and still cleared the booster.

https://www.cfrperformance.com/CHEVY...z-9504-t-c.htm

1968 Impala SS
496 Stroker
T56 Conversion
3.73 Posi-Trac
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