1962 Impala 2 speed wiper motor - Impala Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems

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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-05-2014, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: rapid city
Posts: 36
1962 Impala 2 speed wiper motor

We recently purchase this white hardtop only to find the wiper motor was MIA...i spotted a crusty as-is one on Ebay and bid it up to $85 but got shut out when it went over $100. Today i found one at the local U-Pull it, the 4 mounting screws were just rusty phillips flathead so i had to make another trip home to fetch a cordless drill and bits. But it is the correct one with washer pump and hoses intact!
Unfortunately it don't work... it's stuck somewhere....the armature bushings are not frozen and the wiper shaft moves a little but the big plastic gear is stuck! I have a 1972 shop manual shows a similar Corvette wiper motor repair showing that the big gear has its own steel sleeve-shaft. My hunch is that this sleeve goes thru the pot metal case and the case is shrunk with age...i had this happen alot on old 1930's vacuum wiper motors...
Will try to attach pixs now and hoping for any advice before proceeding...Also i see a rubber bumper laying loose inside the transmission i need to figgure out where it came from.....thanks in advance!
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denson1932 is offline  
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-06-2014, 05:18 AM
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,937
Steel (ferrous metals) and aluminum alloys that include pot metal (an alloy of any metal scrap found on the floor of the machine shop and swept up and thrown into the recycle pot) will chemically weld themselves together in the presence of moisture and any electrical charge. Once they have seized solid there isn't any chemical solvent or mechanical force that will separate them.

I had a junkyard 350 out of a pick-up that had been left out in the weather that I was trying to rebuild and the distributor had seized solid in the block. I put a twenty five ton hoist on one end and chained the block to the floor. Result was with enough force I pulled the distributor apart where the top came off the shaft pulling the steel shaft out of the lower portion (after shearing the distributor gear roll pin). I recycled as scrap metal to China a cast iron Q-jet manifold with an aluminum distributor housing welded to it. I then had to machine the lower stub out of the four bolt block by placing the block in a home made fixture in a vertical mill (turns out it wasn't worth the expense).

Getting even further off topic: I could chain it to the floor because while the floor was being poured I had placed two steel plates with a U-bolt off of one of my old Camaro's attached to it In the reinforcing steel wires. Prior to this I had found having an immovable point handy, as I often used an early Ford banjo style axle tube in another shop floor I had poured as a vice stand to pull against while I worked by myself late at night.

I often wished that I had had another anchor point, and came up with the U-bolt idea for my new (now old shop that I have since sold) to give me two points eight feet apart to pull against, or to tie down cars while working on springs, or what ever. I just wish I could have found another old Ford axle, but they aren't as common as the used to be when I was younger, so I welded up another steel stand out of a piece of steel pipe with a big base for my next bench vice to sit on and made another for a big bench top grinder, or chop saw to sit on; but it required unbolting and changing out the tools. (If I ever pour another shop floor I will use a receiver hitch plate held in place by a pin instead of welding the top solid to the stand so the pipe will have to be a thick wall two by two, to make the top interchangeable for a vice, saw grinder, or any bench top tool that I don't want wandering off while I work with it).

In the case of your junkyard find take it back and they will throw it in the scrap metal pile to make a new fender or floor pan for a future project for someone. Copper and aluminum metal in steel however contaminates the melt; and in the United states it wouldn't be allowed to happen. But such is not the case in China, were they have no rules except to maximize profit.

The other issue you will have with a two speed or pulse wiper is how are you going to control it? Your wiper switch has on and off position, but no low or high speed, nor does it support a intermittent wiper operation. You will need a matching switch to control the wiper motor, when you buy another wiper motor. They all interchange with one another, as GM only made two wiper motors from the beginning of time. These wiper motors all have the same bolt pattern to mount them to the firewall and use the same size shaft to bolt on the actuating arm. They where all initially a round motor variant but have been replaced with the square motor style that also incorporates the fluid washer feature.

I have seen advertised pulse wiper dash mounted wiper switches that controlled a pulse type intermittent wiper motor with a push to activate the fluid washer. But the universal switch wiper knob universally doesn't fit any car's interior, and they where large by comparison to your car's knob. The other option would be to take a modern tilt steering column with locking steering wheel and column mounted ignition key and adapt it to fit in your car.

Big Dave

Last edited by Big Dave; 04-06-2014 at 09:07 AM. Reason: wrote this half asleep
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-06-2014, 07:49 AM
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Lewisburg, Ohio
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Please read this. I probably tossed a couple of good wiper motors before I started testing them the right way.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-06-2014, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: rapid city
Posts: 36
Thanks to all for the valuable info...the problem is corrosion caused by water...the motor is protected under the hood by the engine except for the drive shaft which is under the air intake area. The motor is a 2-speed and also the switch on the dash is a two-speed typical of Impala options.
The post by 'dadstoy' led me to also find the levers attached to the energizing relay hardly moved when energized...see white corrosion under lever in attached pix...but the main reason for no work is the rust corrosion on the big metal hollow shaft of the white plastic gear....so if i get this cleaned and polished then the big gear can rotate and i think all will work, IF i can get it back together correctly....
Can anyone advise me on a method to retain the motor BRUSHES in their holder whilst the top cover is placed back over the motor Commutator?
Thanks again for replies...
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denson1932 is offline  
post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-06-2014, 01:02 PM
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,937
There should be two holes that you can slide a small diameter plastic pin through (in the old days they used a wooden pin smaller than a tooth pick to do it but plastic has replaced the wooden tool).

Big Dave
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-06-2014, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: rapid city
Posts: 36
I found another repair guide in my 1967 Camaro chassis book...again not the correct one but very helpful...shows how to improvise a brush holder as there are no little holes to retain them...my reward is a working wiper motor!
Only issue now is the 1/4" long piece of black rubber tubing that i found inside the transmission...visible in one or 2 of my earlier pixs....it was split out on one side from age so obviously it was installed over a linkage or post of metal somewhere inside and used as a cushion or bumper....can't seem to ID exactly where it came from...ANYONE know where to install a fresh rubber bumper in the transmission?....so far the wiper motor don't seem to mind...it sounds like a fine tuned singer sewing machine now...HA! and fooey to $400 (plus core) restored wiper motors!
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