1963 impala power windows - Impala Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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1963 impala power windows

Hello everyone. So I have a 63 impala with factory power windows and I concerned with the motors. So in order to raise and lower the windows I have to pull them up or push them down when pressing on the switches. Does anyone have suggestions on either replacing the motors or even possibly the 30 amp breaker? If replacing the motors any suggestions on brand, I've seen ACC motors for $100 for the pair on eBay. Thank you
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 04:41 PM
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Since you have to take the door apart to change the window motors any way I would disassemble every thing; clean it, and regrease it, as well as changing out all of the white nylon bushings and rollers. Odds are the motors and switches work fine, there is just too much friction for the torque of the motors to over come.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah I've already replaced all the nylon rollers and cleaned the parts. But I never disassembled window motor because I didn't want to mess it up.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 07:19 PM
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Doubt if problem is inside the motor. Only wear parts would be the brushes which make the electrical contact with the armature, unless the bronze bushings have seized. Usually the motor is a high RPM low torque motor that relies upon gear leverage to move the glass up and down. Window glass doesn't get heavier with age, but wear and corrosion can introduce a lot more friction to the system than was present when new.

Have you examined the window felts that not only guide, but support the window in it's travels.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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Any thoughts on replacing the breaker? Would that make a difference. I was assuming the motors were just old slow and weak. The felts are the originals and glass glides up and down smoothly
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Any thoughts on replacing the breaker? Would that make a difference.
Yes it will set your car on fire. A DC motor will draw infinite current if the rotor is locked up. That is more current than your wires can carry without melting. This will result in your car catching fire if you increase the amperage rating of the fuse.

Since you are convinced that the motors are defective I suggest you replace them as soon as possible:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...2-11/3811441-P

Big Dave
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-23-2019, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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I’m referring to the stock 30 amp breaker that is installed by the factory to power the windows and convertible tops. I’m not dumb enough to put a fuse or breaker larger than it was designed for.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-23-2019, 06:58 PM
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The factory pulled the power windows and convertible top out of the RPO wiring harness as the power drain was too much for the factory wiring; so it has it's own private circuit with a feed back to the battery that goes through the fire wall behind the radio.

Should anyone want an air suspension or a sound system with 1.21 gigawatts of power (or a time machine for that matter), best to have a separate power circuit for those devices. Even electric fans and electric fuel pumps can trip the safety barrier imposed by undersized factory wiring.

A fuse or circuit breaker is selected such that it will support up to 30% above it's rated power for a fraction of a second to prevent a momentary oops from blowing the circuit. A slow blow fuse might even last up to twelve seconds at 500% of rated power before popping as they are two fuses combined in one. Time delay or slow blow fuses are sold by Buss for your car's fuse box if you want to try one but if it is drawing too much current (remember that locked rotor and a DC motor) it will probably let the sacred smoke out somewhere in 12 seconds time.

My point is you have disassembled the regulators, gears cleaned everything and replaced all plastic wear parts. You have confirmed that the problem lies within the motors (that have a geared transmission to reduce the high RPM motor down to hand cranking speeds) . As such it is time to replace them not to worry about the fuse which either works as intended or it blows opening the circuit so that nothing protected by it works.

Big Dave
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