New starter wiring help... - Impala Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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New starter wiring help...

I just want to make sure I am doing this correctly. I have a 65 impala, that has been converted to hei and is wired up correctly. I am switching the stock starter out for a new high-torque mini starter. In doing such, the wiring will be different. Currently 3 wires run to the starter, a large wire from the battery (+), a wire from the ignition switch (S) on current starter, and a wire (R) that would give a full 12 volts back to the coil during startup and 0v regularly, for points distributors.
My question is this, since HEI use the full 12v all the time and is wired up correctly, I can just abandon this (R) wire for the new mini starter that accepts only a trigger wire and a direct battery (+)... correct?

I can never be too sure! Thanks!

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 01:30 PM
BA.
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Yes you are correct in what you "want to do", but it's confusing that you stated that you are wired up correctly today, but it sounds like you have the R terminal still wired up. (even though you are HEI today).

Changing a starter is not the impetus for new wiring, the wiring is the same for either starter. Going to HEI is what eliminates the need for the R terminal wire between the Starter and the Distributor. (like you said, that wire is for providing 12V to a Points distributor only during cranking)

Did I mis-read something?

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BA. View Post
Yes you are correct in what you "want to do", but it's confusing that you stated that you are wired up correctly today, but it sounds like you have the R terminal still wired up. (even though you are HEI today).

Changing a starter is not the impetus for new wiring, the wiring is the same for either starter. Going to HEI is what eliminates the need for the R terminal wire between the Starter and the Distributor. (like you said, that wire is for providing 12V to a Points distributor only during cranking)

Did I mis-read something?
Nope, you didn't miss a thing. When the engine was converted to hei, that wire wasn't removed from the starter, though I am sure it was disconnected from the hei. I say this because it ran perfectly and had no issues, but the physical (R) wire was still connected to the old starter (Why it wasn't removed I'll never know). Just wanted to be sure I was visualizing this correctly... So am I good?

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Last edited by nicke; 10-04-2011 at 04:29 PM.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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So I should be good?

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 06:50 PM
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Nick,
You should be fine from the starter function but you did not mention if the HEI distributor is wired correctly. You need to make sure that the resistance wire was replaced with the correct wire and that you are indeed getting a full 12v at the distributor when the car is running.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 07:34 PM
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The R wire connected or disconnected makes no difference to the HEI distributor which gets full voltage all the time. The old points distributor was operating at 8 volts all the time because of the resistor wire to extend the life of the points. The points got full voltage during starting to assure a hotter spark to promote easier starting. With HEI nothing changes as it is at full voltage all the time so you always have a hotter spark (the reason people like an HEI system).

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-05-2011, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys... After tracing down the "R" wire, it ran right to the hei distributor, where it was pigtailed with what I only assume is the 12v constant. I know that is not suppose to be that way. That means either my hei isn't getting the full 12v or my starter was getting the full 12v all the time... My next step, as you have both mentioned is to make sure I am getting the full 12v to the distributor. Needless to say, I have removed the "R" wire from the starter, and replace all the wiring. Thanks again for the help.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-08-2012, 08:52 PM
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Rather than starting a new thread about a similar topic I wanted to expand on this a bit.
This afternoon I went out to start my car and it wouldn't turn over. There is a full charge on the battery, but when I turn the key it attempts to start but doesn't have enough power to turn over more than two or three weak times. Meanwhile the positive wire from the battery gets hot.
My conclusion is that the motor on the starter has shorted. Would this be a safe assumption?
Thinking that, I pulled the starter and in doing so I disconnected 3 wires. The positive lead and the ignition wire and the yellow wire which runs to the HEI distributor. I noted that the yellow wire runs into the bottom of the distributor along with the "cloth" covered wire. When I disconnected the yellow wire it broke at the terminal, the jacket has dryed out. But reading the above it sounds like it shouldn't be connected in the first place. It had been starting and running fine since the motor was put in last year until today. So do I need to just cut it back and tuck it in and forget about it?



Also, just out of curiosity, what is the orange wire that is wrapped up in the same bundle as the starter wires that goes to the passenger side of the upper firewall?

Last edited by Land Ark; 06-08-2012 at 09:36 PM.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-08-2012, 09:34 PM
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Orange wire feeds the blower motor as I remember it.

If your heavy battery cable (the 00, 0, or 1 gauge cable) is getting hot you are boiling the battery and cooking the starter. It is acting like a locked rotor DC motor which will draw infinite current. It could be a defective starter (a quick trip to your corner auto parts store can have the starter motor checked out) or an issue in the wiring (though nothing in the cars wiring can handle the full current of the battery except the o gage battery cables, anything smaller would melt like a filament in a flash bulb).

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 03:33 PM
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After replacing both battery wires and the starter I've determined it's the alternator.
I got the battery tested and charged and the multimeter says 12 volts with the engine running. I supposed its served its purpose over the past 17 years.
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