1965 Chevrolet Impala SS Resto-Mod Build Thread - Page 3 - Impala Tech
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post #51 of 66 (permalink) Old 07-31-2017, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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Many have asked, the mirror base is wedge-shaped to pitch the mirror properly.



The Impala originally had large, flat-topped rib starting on the header panel and running up the hood. We are building a custom hood for this car, and the customer didn’t want that flattened rib, so we reshaped the header to come to a peak to match the new hood design.





After some cutting and reshaping, the header now has the pointy peak.

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post #52 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-13-2017, 02:48 AM
 
 
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post #53 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-17-2017, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Allright, it was time to address some of the Impala’s wobbly chassis issues. This car had a bit of rust that needed repairing, and we took some time to install some .120” wall tubing to brace up the chassis.


First up was the custom transmission cross member.





The pin-bolt design is strong and also allows for a quick removal if needed.



MagnaFlow exhaust will have to make it’s way around the bottom of the car.



These cars are tricky with the multi-link rear suspension, and we wanted to run full-length exhaust all the way to the back, so everything needed to be built with all the pieces in mind.

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post #54 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-17-2017, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Clearance issue on the panhard (track) bar and the preload caps on the 12-bolt rear end cover…





Solution: Extend the panhard mount, but make sure the geometry is correct and that it is strong enough.



There you go!



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post #55 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-25-2017, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Finishing up the transmission crossmember



These holes are good for ˝ second faster times in the quarter mile.



Some additional bracing was added from the transmission cross member to the frame.



Big mounting feet for bolt-in installation.

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post #56 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-25-2017, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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Driveshaft loop



These parts will become a removable “kicker” from the transmission crossmember to the frame.






Notching the tube with an HTP tubing notch tool.







The transmission crossmember fully welded



And the whole rig fitted up in the car with the exhaust.



Planning the rear tube exit over the axle.

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post #57 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-25-2017, 08:18 PM
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Why do you need a panhard bar with a factory-style four link that is angled?

Two doors, four doors, wagons, and ragtops.
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post #58 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-25-2017, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayoldschool View Post
Why do you need a panhard bar with a factory-style four link that is angled?
The panhard (or track bar, as GM called it) is factory on these cars. Although they have a 4-link rear, it is not a true triangulated 4-link as the Chevelle is. The upper arms are angled a bit, but it is much more of a parallel link than a triangulation. We would not have done much to the bar mount, but the customer wanted the tall aluminum differential cover with adjustable preload, so we had to extend the original mount. The earlier cars had 3 arms and the panhard bar from the factory.
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post #59 of 66 (permalink) Old 09-25-2017, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayoldschool View Post
Why do you need a panhard bar with a factory-style four link that is angled?
1971-'99 had angled (triangulated) four bar in the rear, except station wagons that had rear leaf springs. The 1965-'70 had parallel bars with a Panard bar.

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post #60 of 66 (permalink) Old 03-12-2018, 08:07 PM
 
 
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post #61 of 66 (permalink) Old 04-07-2018, 07:05 PM
 
 
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Nice build, keep the updates coming.
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post #62 of 66 (permalink) Old 05-18-2018, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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This is a fuel-injected car, so we used a reproduction stock fuel tank from Tanks, Inc., and installed one of their in-tank fuel modules for the pump.



The module allows for an in-tank EFI pump to be mounted in nearly any kind of tank, as the depth is adjustable to the tank.



Here, the pump module and level sender are sealed to the tank and bolted tight. One fitting is pressure, the middle is for the fuel vent, and the other is a return.



Meanwhile, the Vintage Air hoses, condenser, and other items are installed as wiring begins.



Much of the plumbing and wiring will be hidden, but the goal was more to make the underhood area clean and not to hide absolutely everything.



Vintage Air Gen IV evaporator unit being installed under the dash.



An American Autowire Classic Update harness replaces all the old wiring.

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post #63 of 66 (permalink) Old 05-18-2018, 04:50 PM
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Same EFI tank I used in my '67 other than it came from Holley and was a little cheaper for some reason.
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post #64 of 66 (permalink) Old 05-19-2018, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovebohn View Post
Same EFI tank I used in my '67 other than it came from Holley and was a little cheaper for some reason.

Please explain. I have a 67 Impala & have been looking for an EFI tank, but found no one makes one for a 67. The 67 tank is very shallow and that whole pump/sending unit area is complicated by the spare tire eyebrow.


Or did you use a 65 tank and somehow modify it to work on a 67.
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post #65 of 66 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 11:47 AM
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Correct I used the tank for a '65 which after talking with Tanks Inc who said a few other customers have done that in the past. I forget but I think it was 4" shorter and the same width, they also make it a little deeper to help due to the recessed area for the pump. I think i ended up ordered new straps for the 1967 tank since the ones which came on the '65 just did not fit well. The other option is a custom tank from Rick's or Rock Valley which are the perfect way to go if spending $1000-$1500 isn't a problem.
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post #66 of 66 (permalink) Old 11-28-2019, 01:16 PM
 
 
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