Last night I cut out a large section of my passenger-side quarter-panel for replacement.
It was a little scary since the little floor patches I made were my first attempts at welding ever. (see blog)
I already have these "front" patches for the rear quarters so I jumped right in. I'll order a rear section for the drivers side soon,....still undecided on whether I *really* need one for the passenger-side rear/lower quarter. It may depend upon how easy I find this work. lol.
Things weren't too awful underneath here. Quite a lot of sand and junk was hiding in there, all of it is there on the floor now.
The only bad rust was just that 1" lip of the outer wheel-well that folds under. I'm thinking I will make a new strip of that.
I did buy one of those "flanger" air tools. One side puts a flange on the panel, and the opposite side of the tools head punches a small hole in the sheet-metal so you can do a rosette (spot) weld. Harbor Freight - $30-$40.
That reminds me, I need to buy some of that spray can "weld-through' primer".
Well, I made a very concerted effort this weekend to get this patch-panel completed.
I couldn't have done it without the unexpected help of my buddy Mike though. Thanks Mike!!
I gotta say, I had screwed up on Saturday,...GOT IN A RUSH,...and cut my patch panel piece too quickly. I accidentally cut ON my line,....not an inch or so outside of it. The result of that is that I had to do a butt-weld and not the intended (and better) method of putting a flange on the body, then the new patch rests against the flange. Rookie mistake....you can bet I won't do that again. At least not that I'll admit. lol.
Here's some shots from this weekends work. I had the panel sloppily (yeah, sloppily) welded into place, and the new inner wheel well lip went REAL well. When my buddy Mike (in the pics) stopped by though, he pointed out that I didn't have good penetration on my welds so he fixed that for me. Whew! How awesome is that!
Nice job Allan. Don't beat yourself up for doing a butt weld as opposed to a lap weld. If you can successfully tackle doing a butt weld, you have produced a joint that is the nearest to making your repair undetectable if you can dress the back side of the joint (leaving total area at material thickness). Flange welds may appear "stronger" but they can attract moisture between the metal and "bubble" later on. Great job!
take the flux welder back, they really do a crappy job of welding. you need a welder with gas.
yeah im aware ..but just hear me out for a second...i had a mig w/gas up north...left it w/friend so he could finish his projects..( we're that tite he's like an older brother..plus hes movin down here as well)...and im doin most of my work outside...so the sheilding gas would be pointless....but what i have found out is that the lincoln flux core wire is superior to the harbor frieght so i swapped it out...im only doin what needs to be welded the rest of the replacement metal is goin to be "bonded/glued and screwed!.....then wiped w/metal 2 metal filler as well as "claw glassed"....and all sealed w/high build etchin primer....the bulk of the prep for paint will be when i get real "juiced-up ala jimmy buffet"....and start wet sandin with paint sticks for 2 or 3 weeks!.....and if it ....when it does(they all do!) breaks out......i'll blow it in again.......itz part of this desease of ownin a classic......
"when it does(they all do!) breaks out......i'll blow it in again."
what does that mean? I have a gut feeling I could learn something there if I could de-cipher it.
sorry 'bout that buddy.....what i was referrin to was the home/garage resto's that you and i are doin...limited budget..yada yada.....eventually there will be a spot somewhere that we've repaired to the best of our abilities...that will bubble up and pop out......and the blow it in again ....is in reference to spot paint touch up/repair!.........itz a New Yawk thing.....
You are a braver man than I BA. Good job so far looks like it's coming along pretty well.
I don't think you understand how the shielding gas works. Outside ambient temperature has nothing to do with it.
I have to say csf64ss, it is very difficult to read your replies with all the broken up sentences. Are you posting from a keyboard or a cell phone?
scott...i do in fact understand 'bout shielding gas......i was certified for boiler tube repair...and when we welded on stainless or hydrogen lines we had a constant nitrogen purge (inert gas)...during the process.....if you read my post again i made mention of the fact that im welding outside..in my driveway...where im subjected to WIND....which would blow the argon off the weld anyway...has nothin to do with ambient temp.....plus im not runnin beads....im plug welding...and gluein/bondin large areas.....and i use my own short hand to get my posts up from a keyboard.....i try to get to the point and i dont use spell check nor am i concerned 'bout it.....im here for fun and to learn.....and help anyone by my past experiences.....thats all.......
aww, I see now, I was afraid that was kinda what you meant! I don't like hearing that my hill billy repairs may pop out one day. lol. hahahahaaaaa
yeah!...i dont care what anyone says.....you can do any repair to the best of your ability/budget/materials.....etc...and you might get lucky....but 7 outta 10..within a year or two....are gonna pop/blister/lift...whatever.....it never bothered me...its reality....hillbilly repair!..love it!.....im redneckin it! down here in junior nation!....
Most previous body work that "pops out" later on is the result of contaminated welds.
porosity....yeah it'll do it....but there are quite a few things that will lead to "pop outs etc etc"....i personally think that moisture/ humidity...which is unavoidable are the main causes .....especially when workin outside/ at home...but nothings perfect..everything is subject to somethin........