what should I offer for this rust bucket 65 SS - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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what should I offer for this rust bucket 65 SS

I want this car just because it is exactly like one I had i high school. I would probably do a frame off and look for another more solid body.

question is, what should I offer, or not..? The '65 I rebuilt back in high school was about in this condition so I know what could be involved.

The good:
Its a '65 SS 327
never been modified in any way.
most emblems are present
fairly complete car
automatic shifter is present
probably has a title
interior is mostly complete
trunk pan is OK
will probably roll
frame is OK
body is straight other than 1 door and hood


the bad:
console is missing
needs all 4 quarters replaced if I choose to keep the body
needs entire floor pan
needs a hood
no power train present
is a rust bucket




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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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s
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 10:49 AM
BA.
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When I look at something like that I sometimes ask myself "what does this car even offer as value?".

I think a lot of people would replace emblems, maybe taillights, of course the sheet-metal stuff...the interior bits too.

So, is the only value here in the frame, dash & cluster and the glass? Maybe grill/headlights? That's not much.
I presume the bumpers need re-chromed.

I'm not in the 65/66 parts business like others, but I did start with a rust-bucket. I was fortunate (?) enough to only have to do several patches in the trunk and floorpans on mine. (aside from extensive bodywork needed)


To me, that car only seems like a $250-$500 car.
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HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 10:51 AM
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Welcome to the Team!

I have seen worse. Some would use those parts to fix their projects.

Not all SS cars had a console, it was an option added to the SS package (bucket seats).

Missing a power train is a plus. Work on body first. Once you have removed all rust and have it in build coat primer then buy a crate engine and crate transmission to get it back on the road (don't forget to clean and seal or replace the gas tank first).

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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A good driver 65 SS is worth about $15k. So it's not much value there for the work and investment to get it driving.

But They aren't making anymore of them, and they are cool as heck!

Thanks for the input. I was thinking along the same lines, around $500 because I know the bucket seats alone are worth that in the shape they are in.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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I think this one did have a console just by looking at the shifter and carpet. But in its condition who knows what was there.. But back on my first '65 I couldn't find or afford a console (before Google) and it was just fine without one.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-10-2019, 03:15 PM
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Garage
If you are planning on restoring it, pass it up, not worth the trouble. You will spend $25-30k and end up with a $10k car.
You are better off spending a little more and finding something that will give you a better start.
If you want it as a part car, I agree with $250-500 cause there is not much there. JMO.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 09:22 AM
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Myself, I would buy it as a parts car and if it's restore-able that would be something to be determined once I had it home. Probably would go as much as $500, once thoroughly checked it over.

-Parting Out over 75 '58 to '73 Full Size Chevy Cars-

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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I might offer him $400 and see what happens. If nothing else I know the frame is good and it is a 65 Ss with some valuable parts.

Question about that. If I found a better body to use later on, could I legally use the title and cowl tag,etc with a different body using this frame? Or is that frowned upon?
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 10:51 AM
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Negative Ghost Rider, that pattern is full. (unless you want a pair of shiny bracelets)

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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Oh wow, there's even a name for it! I didn't even consider it would be that big of a deal. I look at the body as basically a huge piece of sheet metal to put on my frame.. Otherwise most of the body metal would be coming from Goodmark, or whoever makes replacement panels for this car.. Guess I learned something new.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 03:38 PM
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Right, legally the Cowl that the Tag is attached to, is the car.
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-Parting Out over 75 '58 to '73 Full Size Chevy Cars-

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62BillT View Post
Right, legally the Cowl that the Tag is attached to, is the car.
Cowl tag isn't the issue. It is the VIN tag that can not be removed, or altered under federal law. You can buy a cowl tag with any options you want listed on it and attach it to the car along with a counterfeit window tag that lists any rare options and motor combination you want. This is legal but frowned upon by purists.

For the record there is nothing special about an SS in the full size car. It is a style option not a performance option. You could order an SS with a six cylinder and a PowerGlide. An SS means you got a two door Sport Coupe Body with bucket seats and chromed trim; that's it.

You could order a light weight two door 1967 Biscayne sedan (post car) with a 427 engine, four speed, heavy duty suspension, a 12 bolt rear with a posi and beat up on Camaros or Chevelles; but it won't have the shiny trim stripes or SS logo.

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 02:11 PM
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Dave,

Not the "Cowl Tag", but the Cowl itself, with the VIN Tag attached to it, is what I was referring to.

-Parting Out over 75 '58 to '73 Full Size Chevy Cars-

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-26-2019, 01:39 PM
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If you classify the car as reconstructed I think the VIN rules become looser, but you would still be required to get the VIN verified as not stolen on both cars before you could start messing with that. In some states when you register a kit car you use the VIN from the car the majority of parts came from and it can be a PITA.

As far as sheet metal goes, I don't think the aftermarket makes all the panels for a 65 or 66 at this time. They are getting better, but just not there as the popularity of full size cars dwarf the mid size cars of the time. The collector market for a 65 Chevelle is a lot hotter than the market for a 65 Impala.

1965 and up full size Chevrolet cars are currently more a labor of love than an investment car, unless you find one with the rare top HP engine options, and then it can come down to authenticity and documentation. The earlier full size X frame cars from 1958-1964 didn't have the Midsize to deal with until the 1964 model year. They didn't even have the compacts to deal with until the 1960 Corvair and 1962 Chevy II. The C1 corvette was the only major competitor to the full size car.
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