decoding cowl tag help - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: KY , Winchester
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decoding cowl tag help

08B
ST 65 16637 FRA-72
TR 879 RR
W2MPSR 3C 4P SW

could use help with completely decoding , know most but not all of it ,,thanks for any help
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 01:17 PM
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08B second week of August Build Date

STyle information
1965 production run
16637 two door Impala SS sport coupe body style (1 of 212,027 built)
FRA Framingham, MA assembly plant (usually ony Chevelle got a FRA, Impala had a FR code)
72 Part of Fisher Body sequence number

TRim
879 Regal Red paint color
RR Possibly designating top and bottom colors if if it has a vinyl roof, otherwise unknown

Group Codes:
Group 1 W Tinted wind sheild only
Group 2 M PowerGlide Transmission
P Remote Mirror
S Rear Antenna
R Rear Seat Speaker
Group 3 C Padded Dash
Group 4 P Right exterior rear mirror
Group 5 W Right exterior rear mirror

Big Dave
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-22-2019, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
 
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: KY , Winchester
Posts: 10
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
08B second week of August Build Date

STyle information
1965 production run
16637 two door Impala SS sport coupe body style (1 of 212,027 built)
FRA Framingham, MA assembly plant (usually ony Chevelle got a FRA, Impala had a FR code)
72 Part of Fisher Body sequence number

TRim
879 Regal Red paint color
RR Possibly designating top and bottom colors if if it has a vinyl roof, otherwise unknown

Group Codes:
Group 1 W Tinted wind sheild only
Group 2 M PowerGlide Transmission
P Remote Mirror
S Rear Antenna
R Rear Seat Speaker
Group 3 C Padded Dash
Group 4 P Right exterior rear mirror
Group 5 W Right exterior rear mirror

Big Dave
thanks Big Dave
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2019, 06:38 AM
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Decoding

2P is comfort and conv equipment
The last codes are 5W not SW and 5W is: Custom deluxe belts with front retractors.
Warren’s site is the only site out there with correct decoding information for full size cars all others are wrong:

https://impalas.org/numbers/


Paul

Paul

1966 Impala SS

Please Visit our new site:
http://www.winvoices.com/
1959 through 1988* window stickers, car shippers, dealer invoices, retail sales orders and tank stickers, expertly reproduced, for most Chevrolet Models.





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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2019, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Warren’s site is the only site out there with correct decoding information for full size cars
Warren never responds to request for decodes so I offer info from a book written by Mark S. Allen. But now I have glossed my book for the third time with info from the world's greatest guru who never speaks. If I continue to be with all others, and

Quote:
all others are wrong
Then I will eventually know what Warren knows as the only time you post is to correct me.

Big Dave
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2019, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Location: KY , Winchester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fsc66 View Post
2P is comfort and conv equipment
The last codes are 5W not SW and 5W is: Custom deluxe belts with front retractors.
Warren’s site is the only site out there with correct decoding information for full size cars all others are wrong:

https://impalas.org/numbers/


Paul
Thanks to both of you
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2019, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
 
 
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Location: KY , Winchester
Posts: 10
 
65 impala interior

The cowl tag decodes as the interior being red an exterior as red , what is bothering me is that interior is black , whats the odds of the tag being wrong ? I can see that the outside has been repainted an shows some red under it in a picture , but from what I see online the interior would have to be completely swapped to be black including part of dash should be red ,, the engine is missing so I cant restore it to original but interested in how the wrong color interior effects the value to purchase , of course I have not seen it up close yet but will this friday to make an offer , , I have only seen the cowl tag not the vin tag yet ,,I don't care much that colors are different just interested in how value is affected , I love the 65 models but want to curb my ideal on price in case I want to resell sometime after I get it running ,,plan is to get a 283 from same year and install just to make it era correct but might put a 327 in it or go for a BB engine if it helps raise value , the guy isn't trying to mislead as far as I can tell but listed it as a barn find which who knows on a car this old what has been done ,,but he is asking $5000 for a non running car and says its solid body just some surface rust here an there and solid frame ,,which is why I need to go over it carefully ,,if solid I was thinking of $3500 to $4000 as price range but I know very little on a value with the differences ,,I know the value is what the next person will pay for it but want to keep it realistic ,,any input would be appreciated , thanks
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2019, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65-impala-ss View Post
The cowl tag decodes as the interior being red an exterior as red , what is bothering me is that interior is black , whats the odds of the tag being wrong ? I can see that the outside has been repainted an shows some red under it in a picture , but from what I see online the interior would have to be completely swapped to be black including part of dash should be red ,, the engine is missing so I cant restore it to original but interested in how the wrong color interior effects the value to purchase , of course I have not seen it up close yet but will this friday to make an offer , , I have only seen the cowl tag not the vin tag yet ,,I don't care much that colors are different just interested in how value is affected , I love the 65 models but want to curb my ideal on price in case I want to resell sometime after I get it running ,,plan is to get a 283 from same year and install just to make it era correct but might put a 327 in it or go for a BB engine if it helps raise value , the guy isn't trying to mislead as far as I can tell but listed it as a barn find which who knows on a car this old what has been done ,,but he is asking $5000 for a non running car and says its solid body just some surface rust here an there and solid frame ,,which is why I need to go over it carefully ,,if solid I was thinking of $3500 to $4000 as price range but I know very little on a value with the differences ,,I know the value is what the next person will pay for it but want to keep it realistic ,,any input would be appreciated , thanks
me? I'd believe the tag over some sellers claim. Until you get to thoroughly inspect the car as Dave suggested , and on a lift to get full access to the 'underneath', I would not accept the 'solid' claim either. 'Surface rust' may be only the tip of the ice berg.

No drive train, wrong color, replaced interior (and inaccurate claim of 'original'), rusty and in need of a paint job ($10k without rust repair), equates to a car that needs LOTS of $$$; especially if you can't do much of the work yourself. And steering, suspension, brakes, electrical, ALL need evaluation. Don't under estimate the costs of your personal preferences.

As you said the car will never be considered 'original'. I would not spend a nickel trying to make it so; or even 'period correct' which is nebulous and adds no value (if 'value' is your goal). Recommend you research what 'finished' cars are selling for. That should give you an idea of what this type of car is 'worth'. My guess is approx $25k.

One way (not the only way) to approach your quest is to determine how much money you are prepared to put into the finished car and work backwards to what the 'hulk' is worth to you.

For example ONLY:

investment limit: $25k. "hulk' purchase $5k; leaves $20k for 'restoration' to break even.

Drivetrain: $8k

Paint w/surface rust repair only: $12k

Brakes, suspension, steering: $10k

Electrical: $3k

Exhaust: $1k

Misc: $5k

Risk (ALL the stuff you don't know that will pop up): $10k (a rather conservative estimate).

Total required to 'restore' to drivable and 'nice' appearance for this example: $39k. Again, this is an example of the process. You need your own numbers. The numbers I used are WAGS.

One last suggestion. Restoring these cars is a HOBBY and the rewards come from the completion of the finished product to YOUR requirements/desires. Investment will never be returned.

Just trying to be helpful.

Pete
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2019, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by japete92 View Post
me? I'd believe the tag over some sellers claim. Until you get to thoroughly inspect the car as Dave suggested , and on a lift to get full access to the 'underneath', I would not accept the 'solid' claim either. 'Surface rust' may be only the tip of the ice berg.

No drive train, wrong color, replaced interior (and inaccurate claim of 'original'), rusty and in need of a paint job ($10k without rust repair), equates to a car that needs LOTS of $$$; especially if you can't do much of the work yourself. And steering, suspension, brakes, electrical, ALL need evaluation. Don't under estimate the costs of your personal preferences.

As you said the car will never be considered 'original'. I would not spend a nickel trying to make it so; or even 'period correct' which is nebulous and adds no value (if 'value' is your goal). Recommend you research what 'finished' cars are selling for. That should give you an idea of what this type of car is 'worth'. My guess is approx $25k.

One way (not the only way) to approach your quest is to determine how much money you are prepared to put into the finished car and work backwards to what the 'hulk' is worth to you.

For example ONLY:

investment limit: $25k. "hulk' purchase $5k; leaves $20k for 'restoration' to break even.

Drivetrain: $8k

Paint w/surface rust repair only: $12k

Brakes, suspension, steering: $10k

Electrical: $3k

Exhaust: $1k

Misc: $5k

Risk (ALL the stuff you don't know that will pop up): $10k (a rather conservative estimate).

Total required to 'restore' to drivable and 'nice' appearance for this example: $39k. Again, this is an example of the process. You need your own numbers. The numbers I used are WAGS.

One last suggestion. Restoring these cars is a HOBBY and the rewards come from the completion of the finished product to YOUR requirements/desires. Investment will never be returned.

Just trying to be helpful.

Pete
Thanks for the feed back and I can do all the work including paint and build an engine for it , its never going to be a trailer queen but it will be very nice if I decide to buy it and it will get driven ,,I do projects like this as a hobby because I love the older cars , seller has never tried tried to mislead , I am just trying to get knowledge for making a fair offer
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2019, 07:53 PM
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If you can do it all (everyone thinks they are a mechanic, but few claim to know anything about body work other than it is "too hard") then all you need is a straight rust free body and pocket full of cash.

There are many like you in this area (central Florida) who retired here from the "Frozen North" who like you love to find project cars and make them theirs. They then sell a "new" old car that is in immaculate (show room) condition for just enough money to buy their next project. They lose thousands of dollars in each transaction, but get three to five years of joy in being occupied and doing something useful. Personally I would like a little more ROI for the car; but then I couldn't paint a model car without runs in the paint.

Big Dave
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2019, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
If you can do it all (everyone thinks they are a mechanic, but few claim to know anything about body work other than it is "too hard") then all you need is a straight rust free body and pocket full of cash.

There are many like you in this area (central Florida) who retired here from the "Frozen North" who like you love to find project cars and make them theirs. They then sell a "new" old car that is in immaculate (show room) condition for just enough money to buy their next project. They lose thousands of dollars in each transaction, but get three to five years of joy in being occupied and doing something useful. Personally I would like a little more ROI for the car; but then I couldn't paint a model car without runs in the paint.

Big Dave
Patching panels and welding in is no problem , the long sanding an paint is the worse lol , but I can do a fair job and saving one old car is always good , I can make money doing repairs to newer autos if I need to , but prefer to work on my own cars , It is a hobby , I enjoy it and love pre 80 autos , I am in the middle of a 79 f100
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