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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-08-2011, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
BA.
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Crate engine's

I'm looking into two possible crate engine's for the Imp'. Trying to keep it cheap as possible but 100% reliable.

I was fairly narrowed down to the 290hp 350cid long block from Jegs at $1799. normally $1999) The cam in this is a 222*/222*, .450"/460" lift.

Now at the last minute, I've found a local, unused crate motor but it's a Vortec style. M35096G. 1996 - 2000. 350cid. I might be able to get it for a similar $1800.

I'm trying to find the info on this Vortec engine,...it is labeled as a Marine engine but I'm not sure what that translates to in physical terms. eg. Why do I care?
I realize I need different valve covers and intake manifold maybe even a water pump. I dunno.


Any tips or advice or knowledge of that Vortec Marine engine would be appreciated. Thanks!

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
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Last edited by BA.; 06-08-2011 at 06:53 PM. Reason: more info
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-08-2011, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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This should be the Vortec motor -

5.7 Liter 350-W/Marine (EPC2714Ll Roller Tappet Camshaft, EFl, Generation Plus Cylinder Heads W Center Bolt Valve Covers, One Piece Rear Main Seal Block W Fuel Pump Hole. 300/330 hp

I think Dealer List is $2300, Retail pricing around $3000.

I'm not sure why the Desc. says EFI - I doubt it comes with it. Good to note the mention of the fuel pump hole.

I have no idea of cam specs or why they say 300/330 hp. which is it?

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-08-2011, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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Can I bolt a Muncie to this Vortec motor?

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-08-2011, 06:01 PM
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300/330 is more than likely HP/TQ or vice versa.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-08-2011, 08:14 PM
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And yes you can bolt a Muncie to it. Marine cams are stump pullers that are all low engine RPM (defining low as all done making power around 4200 RPM) and cruise is about 3,200 to 3,600 RPM depending upon your hull design. You should be able to find info on this motor on the Mercruiser site. They were a major partner with GM and designed and built the Gen VII big block Vortec engine for a big cabin cruiser, before GM desided to put them in pick-up trucks.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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Can I get away with using the Gen 1 water pump on this Gen 2 engine?

Anyone know if the Gen 1 exhaust bolt holes are the same on a Gen 2?

Lastly, If I swap the cam, do the lifters do that thing like an LSx motor where if you rotate the cam backwards, the lifters will 'stick' up out of the way for ya? Or do I have to fully loosen the rockers and pull the lifters out? I hope its not the latter as I really don't want to be the last one to set the rockers.

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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started googling and went to wikipedia and found this.
Some parts from the Generation II are interchangeable with the Generation I one-piece rear main seal engine. The interchangeable parts include the rotating assembly (crank shaft, pistons, connecting rods, and flywheel/flexplate) and valvetrain assembly (not including timing set, which includes a gear to drive the water pump). The LT uses a new engine block, cylinder head, timing cover, water pump, intake manifold and accessory brackets. The harmonic dampener also does not interchange, it is a unique dampener/pulley assembly. Engine mounts and bell housing bolt pattern remain the same, permitting a newer engine to be readily swapped into an older vehicle.

I take it with a grain of salt, but it sounds like you could have 500 invested in just Gen II special parts. (intake, water pump, balancer and brackets,...probably should get the dist. too)
starting to sound like not such a good deal in the end unless I get it for $1200.

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432

Last edited by BA.; 06-10-2011 at 11:54 PM.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
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OUCH!

Parts needed.
Intake $187.99
Intake bolts $14.99
Intake gasket $28.79
Balancer $377.99
Water pump $179.99
Dizzy $209.99
Header gasket $31.99
Spark Plug wires $31.99
Brackets ??

$1,063.72

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-11-2011, 10:25 AM
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Yep, the small things add up fast. Sometimes they'll even equate the price of the engine.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-11-2011, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BA. View Post
OUCH!

Parts needed.
Intake $187.99
Intake bolts $14.99
Intake gasket $28.79
Balancer $377.99
Water pump $179.99
Dizzy $209.99
Header gasket $31.99
Spark Plug wires $31.99
Brackets ??

$1,063.72
What the heck is a dizzy?

1965 impala 2dr
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-11-2011, 02:16 PM
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Distributor

Two doors, four doors, wagons, and ragtops.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-11-2011, 11:01 PM
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There is no distributor, at least not one you would recognize on a second gen small block. It had an optical (not magnetic) triggered low voltage pick-up and ignition module that fired a sealed (prone to Ozone build up) high voltage cam driven distributor cap on the front of the motor. It was and still is a royal pain to use one and failed more frequently than the old style it replaced.

Big Dave
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-12-2011, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-12-2011, 09:56 AM
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That I have not seen before. I usually stick a standard MSD Street Billet distributor in the motor add an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake and a Holley carb and forget about that nasty old complicated EFI stuff. I don't mind EFI all that much (I have never owned anything other than a TBI equipped car, so it is almost an electronic carb) it is just that with a carb I can run any cam I want and MAF sensor EFI is particular about your cam choices.

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