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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-28-2017, 02:27 PM
BA.
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I'm late but, those wheels/tires look great on there!

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-28-2017, 05:07 PM
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I'm late but, those wheels/tires look great on there!


Thanks. We think they look pretty good too. Some chrome lug nuts would be the perfect final touch. But priorities are stacked against us again.
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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-30-2017, 12:41 PM
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Great looking 67. I just sold one.

http://www.impalas.net/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=521&dateline=14693626  69
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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 12-30-2017, 02:37 PM
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Great looking 67. I just sold one.


Thanks.

After putting the cowl cover and lower trim back on

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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 06:03 PM
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Took out the exhaust today. Have a number of things to do to pass the VA safety inspection. Two exhaust leaks, it had a loose wheel bearing, the rear wheel cylinders are leaking, and the defrost is not working.

Gonna do the wheel cylinders tomorrow. Tightened the wheel bearing today before tearing out the exhaust. It is a weee bit louder with all of that piping gone.



Really have to dig into things regarding the defrost. The fan does not blow and I donít know which flaps work and donít. First thing to do will be to take the controls out of the dash and see what is going on with that.
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post #31 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 09:18 PM
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Problem probably lies in the cables that operate the mechanism. The levers are small and when they rust solid people try and force things either breaking plastic parts or bending metal ones. If you can get the cables out you can soak it in penetrating oil to free things up.

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post #32 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 10:17 AM
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Problem probably lies in the cables that operate the mechanism. The levers are small and when they rust solid people try and force things either breaking plastic parts or bending metal ones. If you can get the cables out you can soak it in penetrating oil to free things up.

Big Dave


That is my hope. I tested to see if power was getting to the relay under the hood. And it seemed to be, but it did not change with the lever being on different settings, so I donít know if I was testing it right. So I figured I would take the unit out of the dash and see how the operation of the levers/cables is going. I know the one that switches from cowl fresh air to the ac unit air flow moves the flap from full open to half open, but that is all. Just need to have time and pull the car into the garage and tear into it.
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post #33 of 33 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 01:38 PM
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The levers control the air doors inside the mixing chamber used by GM for climate control. The fans speed switch is huge because it has three sets of resistors that drop the voltage to the fan to control the fan's speed. You can check the fan's operation by grounding the case with a cable back to the negative terminal of the battery, and hot wiring the lug on top of the fan with a second cable (that contains an in-line fuse rated at thirty Amps) to see if the motor spins.

DC motors will draw infinite current if the rotor is locked (dead short) so a fuse is needed in this test. DC motors speed is controlled by the voltage applied and the direction of rotation by the polarity (reversing positive and negative).

The aftermarket sells reproduction fan speed switches, but the cables used only come in predetermined lengths so you may have to buy one that is overly long to replace one you can not use.

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