1963 impala engine swap issues 327 to 383 stroker - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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1963 impala engine swap issues 327 to 383 stroker

Hi Guys,

I pulled out my 327/2 speed powerglide. I am now putting in a 383 stroker with a 700r4 I did my home work got the conversion tranny crossmember ectů I went to put the motor in and the oil pan is hitting the front crossmember. I am being told taller motor mounts I think I need 3/4 inch to 1" higher. Will this affect my drive shaft!

looking for ideas options opinions.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 02:20 PM
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Yes it will.

Change the new oil pan out for your old one along with your oil pump. It will bolt up provided the block that was used for your 383 is a two piece block and your old oil pan requires a thin timing chain gasket (1957-74), though I recommend a one piece pan seal to reduce leaks (Fel-Pro part number 375-OS34509T).

There is no reason for the new oil pan not to fit unless it is for a truck chassis or a Corvette.

Considering the amount of work involved we need to see what is going on before you change anything; as I can not imagine it not just dropping in unless assembled with the wrong parts for a car.

Big Dave
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
 
 
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Hey Big Dave,

Thanks for the reply. Yes that was my first thought, just swap oil pans. Unfortunately a few issues. The dip stick IS on opposite side and my new motor is in fact a one piece seal. So my old pan will not fit.
The motor is a turn key 383 stroker late model block late 90"s came with a 700r4 like a jegs or summit anyway the oil pan hits the cross member. I found taller motor mounts 3/4" taller which should do the trick. I just wonder how much higher the motor can be without jeopardizing the drive shaft


The joys of hot rodding
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 10:41 PM
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Did you happen to get your 383 from Blueprint? I got my 383 from Blueprint and have the 1 piece rear seal and using my stock 283 frame stands and normal rubber mounts it has no clearance issues at all.


I've got around a fingers width of clearance between the oil-pan and crossmember if I recall correctly. Certainly 1/2" or less I'd say.
Dipstick on the passenger side.


Would be worth the time to see what your driveline angle is today, to help do the math on whether 3/4" will keep things in range or put you over the desired angle range. Those magnetic angle checks are cheap, there's also plenty you can download to your phone.

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbell1968 View Post
Hey Big Dave,

Thanks for the reply. Yes that was my first thought, just swap oil pans. Unfortunately a few issues. The dip stick IS on opposite side and my new motor is in fact a one piece seal. So my old pan will not fit.
The motor is a turn key 383 stroker late model block late 90"s came with a 700r4 like a jegs or summit anyway the oil pan hits the cross member. I found taller motor mounts 3/4" taller which should do the trick. I just wonder how much higher the motor can be without jeopardizing the drive shaft


The joys of hot rodding
Have you considered an oil pan from a 350? I have a 383. It too replaced a 327. The block was brand new (GM 10105123). The oil pan is plain 'Jane' for 350 based w/dip stick on passenger side. No problems.

My transmission is a 4 speed, but I don't think that matters (oil pan wise).

Something like this:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1986-...Pan,46210.html

MAY be an alternative to messing with the motor mounts/drive train angles.

Pete
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 11:06 AM
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Just be sure to match the oil pan you use with a proper oil pump pick-up welded to a new oil pump. I use Moroso oil pans with their matching oil pump pick up welded to a Melling oil pump (high volume if and only if I am running chamfered main bearings).

Big Dave
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