And if for a solid cam what is the recomended valve lash from the cam grinder? Second question for a solid cam is; do you have aluminum heads, as they expand at a different rate than cast iron. Final question for adjusting the solids is that gap specification for a cold setting or a hot lash number?
The easy way: Warm up engine, remove valve covers on one side. Start engine and loosen each rocker until it makes a noticeable "clacking" then just tighten it until it stops. When finished with that side, shut off the engine, tighten each rocker an additional 1/2 turn, replace valve cover, clean up mess and your finished!
Once you find Top Dead Center (TDC) and have determined if it is on the power stroke or the intake stroke (you want power) loosen the nut and rotate the push rod with your fingers. Tighten the nut on the intake valve until you can just feel a little drag (zero lash) then tighten it down another 3/4 turn. Intake is done now do the exhaust the same way.
You figure out how you are on the power stroke by watching the valves as you rotate the motor. As the engine opens the exhaust it will be coming up on TDC getting ready for the power stroke as you rotate the motor. You follow the same procedure for every cylinder. Exhaust gasses leaving means the intake is closed and will be about to open. As the intake valve closes TDC will pop up on the damper for Number One.
Normally you would rotate the engine 90° for each cylinder following the firing order adjusting each set of valves. In this case you have to skip a few cylinders but add in their rotation as you go past the evens to find the odd numbers.