New Frame 68 SS - Page 2 - Impala Tech
Restoration Corner Aimed at Originality

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post #26 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-29-2015, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Front end is almost done and rearend is being setup tomorrow. Should be a rolling chassis by the end of the weekend. Damn heat in Vermont is killing my car time.

The plan is by next Wednesday the body will be back on the new frame.

I've taken pictures that I need to post on spring compression and a couple of little tricks I found when installing them. Maybe we can create a sticky on this topic Dave.

I will post them up tomorrow.

Brian

Brian

1968 Impala SS Fastback 383 stroker
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post #27 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-03-2015, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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New Updates

Made some good progress this past weekend. Swapped out the existing 2.73 carrier with the new 3 series carrier. Decided to go with a 3.55 gear. Should make it a little quicker out of the hole.

Installed the rearend with all new suspension parts and brake lines. Came out really nice!

I have to finish the passenger side front suspension and then it's time to roll it back under the body. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
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Brian

1968 Impala SS Fastback 383 stroker
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post #28 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-03-2015, 10:46 PM
BA.
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Your work looks good man. Nice to see you going with some better gearing too.

May want to consider welding the axle housing to the differential if it isn't too late. I had heard of others' overpowering the small pins keeping them in-line on the diff., but imagine my surprise when I completely rotated my passenger side housing enough to make the whole rear-end sit cock-eyed back there! (I was doing a burn-out)

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-04-2015, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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I thought about that when I had it sandblasted. If it leaks or spins the tube I will have more ammunition with the wife to upgrade to a Ford 9".

I'm trying to keep this Impala a driver/cruiser but that "need for speed" feeling keeps creeping in.

Brian

1968 Impala SS Fastback 383 stroker
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post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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Hey everyone: Haven't worked on the Impala for a couple of weeks. I'm right in the middle of building a hay barn for the wife.

Today was around 84 degrees and low humidity so I said it's "Brian Day" today and worked on the car all day.

I purchased a 2800 stall convertor for the Turbo 400 a couple of months ago. I separated the tranny from the engine and realized that the new convertor has a 10.75" spacing on the flexplate. The old flexplate is 11.50" and won't work.

Here is my problem. The motor is the stock 327 but has a 400 crank in it to make a 383. I'm assuming that the 400 crank had to be rebalanced when the motor was built. If that's the case, can I buy a neutral balance flexplate and not have any problems?? I don't want to take this motor apart because it's running wicked strong right now. Those aluminum Brodix 2.08" heads really make some power!!

thanks,

Brian

1968 Impala SS Fastback 383 stroker
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post #31 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 09:09 AM
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The SBC 400 was externally balanced and most low cost cast cranks are similarly externally balanced. Usually you had to buy a more expensive forged chrome moly crank to get the missing internal counter weights for the crank to be neutral balanced.

Did you pay twice the price of the cast crank to buy the forged steel internally balanced one when you built it? If you are in doubt as to whether your crank is cast or not you can examine the parting line visible on the rear flange to see if it has a wide seam with grinding marks, or a thin pointed mold parting line.

How to tell cast from forged. The cast parting line is on the left. the forged seam that is ground down is on the left.

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post #32 of 35 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 09:09 AM
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The SBC 400 was externally balanced and most low cost cast cranks are similarly externally balanced. Usually you had to buy a more expensive forged chrome moly crank to get the missing internal counter weights for the crank to be neutral balanced.

Did you pay twice the price of the cast crank to buy the forged steel internally balanced one when you built it? If you are in doubt as to whether your crank is cast or not you can examine the parting line visible on the rear flange to see if it has a wide seam with grinding marks, or a thin pointed mold parting line.

How to tell cast from forged. The cast parting line is on the left. the forged seam that is ground down is on the left.

Here is the rear flange of a cast 350 that has the thin pointed crest of a parting mold line on the top of the square part of the flange.
Big Dave
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post #33 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-28-2016, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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The restoration continues

Haven't posted my progress in a while. Up in the far north of Vermont, we just had snow 3 weeks ago. Today it was 90 degrees! Go figure. Well, I finally got the motor/tranny back in the Impala. Exhaust is Pypes with Violators. Should sound pretty nasty!!
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Brian

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post #34 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-16-2016, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Floor pans are almost done

Finally got the driver side floorpan in. Came out pretty good. I decided to cut the floorpan in half before I
welded it in. Made it so much easier. I wasn't going to replace the whole floor for a couple of 2 to 3" holes but I'm glad I did. Don't have to worry about it in the future.

The plan is to epoxy primer both sides and then use Evercoat short hair fiberglass on both sides of the seams. Then a 2nd coat of epoxy primer followed by a coat of undercoating. Was told that there is no reason to seam sealer if you use the fiberglass and epoxy. What do you guys think?? The car is only driven in nice weather and put up for the winter.
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Brian

1968 Impala SS Fastback 383 stroker
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post #35 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-16-2016, 02:16 PM
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I agree epoxy and fiberglass should seal it for the rest of time if stored in a dark warehouse out of the sun.

Big Dave
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