The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Engine Bay Restro - Page 4 - Impala Tech
Restoration Corner Aimed at Originality

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post #76 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-01-2016, 01:06 PM
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Chris I agree with you. I started my mechanical career over 60 years ago with a $99 Craftsman mechanics starter tool box from my local Sears store (256 pieces counting the pop up tray tool box). I learned that it was a lot easier to rip apart a lawn mower engine than it was to get it running again. After moving on to larger engines and expanding upon the number of tool in my tool box (I have three large roll around chests full of tools now), I also learned that two guys who wrote about hot rodding a BBC knew as much about the subject as I had learned in 12 years of playing with them and spending well over three thousand times the price of the book on blown engines and heads where I had hit water while porting them. That was a valuable lesson. You get a head start by reading what others know and you can build on their knowledge. You are not restricted by what they tell you it just saves a bundle on making the same mistakes that I and these nice authors are trying to save you from making.

I never learned all that much in Engineering College other than theory. the only classes I had where I played with the subject mater where in materials labs testing concrete mixes and in electrical lab, other wise it was all math and charts, and text books on top of lectures.

That didn't sop me from studying automotive engineering on my own by reading textbooks and attending seminars on my additional dime. But unless you live in or around Detroit you are not going to see a lot of automotive engineering offered in college.

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post #77 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 11:34 AM
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post #78 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Oh Yeah....You've got your work cut out for you. Before you do anything, the windshield needs to come out. Take pictures directly after you get it out and before starting to cut. I curious about something...The reason these cars are rusting there is the lack of drainage and or a leak to the underside of the dash. If you haven't done it yet...Remove the glove box and instrument cluster, you'll be able to see the back side of the rusted out areas. Plus you'll be able to watch for fire as you weld. If you don't have one, buy, borrow, steal, a shrinker/stretcher set. Your going to need it. Go to You Tube and watch some of the videos there on the shrinker/stretcher, they help.
How's your welding skills? A small 120 volt mig welder is all you need. 25/75 gas mix and .032 wire.

The jute insulation under the dash on my 66 was falling apart. I just took it out. It basically rotted away, and fell apart when you touched it.

More pictures please.

Also, when you get to the point of reinstalling the windshield have a glass guy do it and have them use the urethane chalking. The OE rope chalk isn't flexible enough.

Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
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post #79 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 04:28 PM
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Good tips! I have no welding skills. My nephew is going to teach me to weld, and I have a friend that does body work that said he would do work for me and teach me as he goes. Gotta upload more pictures, just set up Photobucket.
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post #80 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dug's Butternut1967 View Post
Good tips! I have no welding skills. My nephew is going to teach me to weld, and I have a friend that does body work that said he would do work for me and teach me as he goes. Gotta upload more pictures, just set up Photobucket.
Start a thread in the restoration forum so we can all follow along...
My '66 Chevelle was originally Butternut Yellow too.

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
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post #81 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #11 Inner Fender

This is going to be a short post. I didn't get much done this past weekend since I still waiting on the parts I ordered to show up. The holidays really jacked up the shipping systems.

So I tackled the passenger inner fender well. I thought this was going to be an easy repair job. WRONG! Because of where the rust holes were I had to cut out some metal that had curves running 2 different directions. Using the shrinker/stretcher didn't work and I had to do everything by hand. But I "Got 'er done!"

No picture of before hand. But here's one of in progress and one finished.





Then I started on the tranny. I wanted to change out the filter, finish cleaning up the gunk that was still stuck to the case. So, using a red scotch bright pad did wonders. Then I used my drill and a small wire wheel to get the rest. I then used a scribe and scratched off the last remaining bits.
I flipped the tranny over and removed the pan. Uuuhhhhhh, where'ssss the filter?
Oh crap, this transmission doesn't use a flat filter like the 67-95 Turbo 400's use. 64-66 use the "can" still filter. These are no longer available from NAPA,. Now, what do I do??? So, I found an ebayer that had the new filters. Rock Auto also has them. I tested the electric solenoid since there was an issue in the past and it didn't go "click-click" when I put juice to it. Once I removed it, it worked fine. The car periodically would down shift, but not consistently. So, I'm replacing it with the new filter.



The S-I-L and hubby came over last Saturday and blasted the other inner fender well, Tranny pan and started on the drive shaft until the nozzle decided to eat itself up.
The S-I-L did take the seats to the upholster and it'll take about 2 weeks and cost a little over $1200. Can't find new seat covers and the Impala ones have the stitching running the wrong direction.

The plan is to finish putting the Fat Mat on the inside. Run the new brake lines. Put in the new solenoid and filter to the transmission. Install the new torque converter and bolt the engine and tranny together, and then drop them back into the car.

I'll try and remember to take pictures.

I don't think this ended up being a short post.

Until next time.

Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

Last edited by jayhawk500; 01-06-2016 at 10:26 AM.
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post #82 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-15-2016, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #12 Progress

Sorry its been so long in the latest update. Last week wasn't any good for me to get anything done on the Caprice. The parts I had ordered did show up. So this is why I'm putting up the post now.

It's a bunch of small stuff, but the one major thing I did get accomplished is getting the '67 brake booster and master cylinder painted. I cleared the master cylinder to help keep it from rusting. As long as I'm able to keep the fluid off of it I'll be fine. The brake booster was painted after the 427 cars. I believe the master cylinder was supposed to be painted black also, but I like the natural metal look. I also got the brake lines and proportioner installed. I ordered a complete brake line kit for a 66 Impala with a disc brake conversion. Although the lines were long enough I had to rebend each one of the lines at some point to get them to fit.





I got the Fat Mat all installed into the car. Now I'm waiting on the carpet and seats. The S-I-L will be sending me pictures of the seats, so I'll get them posted up as soon as I receive them.



The headers were blasted and repainted with VVT "cast Iron" engine paint.



And finally the last thing to be completed is the top of the engine. I put on the PCV hose and ran it to the back vacuum and capped the front one. I will be adding the PCV hose holder that was used of the Holley carbs to keep the hose from flopping around.





I received the new air cleaner yesterday with the proper stickers. Just a bit more "bling" for the S-I-L.



I did use a 375 hp fuel filter. I didn't like the looks of the generic silver fuel filter so after Googling 396 images, I came across 396 375 hp corvette photos. This was in inspiration of the GF-416 filter. These are available on eBay and range in price from Repops to OEM filters. I opted for a repop w/ blemishes, I couldn't find any blems.



The S-I-L felt compelled she needed to pay me for my time, So this is what I brought home yesterday. Gawd, I love my S-I-L!




She does look at my posts from time to time. So, if you all want to respond to her...Go for it. Her name is Vicki.

Until next time.

Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

Last edited by jayhawk500; 01-17-2016 at 11:47 AM.
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post #83 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-15-2016, 10:45 PM
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Eastwood makes a really good grey paint for masters that is pretty much impervious to the fluid and looks like bare cast metal. I use it on all mine and they look great years later.

That is a GREAT compressor. I have one like it...5hp 175 psi. It has thousands of hours on it and still works like new...


'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
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post #84 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-15-2016, 11:02 PM
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I've never owned a big-block Chev. but the routing of the PCV caught my eye because on the SBC the PCV is always on the passenger side, near the FW making for a shorter, slightly cleaner look.

Could you swap your valve covers and have a 'cleaner' look too?

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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post #85 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-15-2016, 11:15 PM
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Chris --> The engine looks great!! As does the brake setup. Enjoy the air compressor.
Vicki --> Chris thanks you for the air compressor! You won't regret this purchase. I have the same one at my house. 10+ years and no issues.

1967 Chevrolet Impala SS convertible - Ermine White C1
1967 Chevrolet Impala SS 396 - Marina Blue FF
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post #86 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-16-2016, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Redone Seats

As promised in my last post the S-I-L sent me the pictures last night.




Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
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post #87 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-16-2016, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BA. View Post
I've never owned a big-block Chev. but the routing of the PCV caught my eye because on the SBC the PCV is always on the passenger side, near the FW making for a shorter, slightly cleaner look.

Could you swap your valve covers and have a 'cleaner' look too?
BA,

The PCV was on the passenger side when I got the car. But after looking at lots of OE BBC's this is the setup that is closest to OE. I've always had SBC, and I'm looking for my own cheap BBC to play with.
SBC LT-1's all had the PCV in the driver valve cover and the intake side went up into the air cleaner. But they could have been in the passenger side in later years though.
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Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

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post #88 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-16-2016, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's View Post
Eastwood makes a really good grey paint for masters that is pretty much impervious to the fluid and looks like bare cast metal. I use it on all mine and they look great years later.

That is a GREAT compressor. I have one like it...5hp 175 psi. It has thousands of hours on it and still works like new...

I'll look at it Mitch if the clear doesn't hold up. I got clear on the Nova and so far, so good.

Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
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post #89 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-16-2016, 06:27 PM
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This is gonna be a really nice car. I'm not a fan of caprices but hey clean is clean. Can't wait to see it when it's done.
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post #90 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-24-2016, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #13 Engine Install

Good Evening Folks,

The S-I-L and Hubby came over yesterday and we dropped the engine and transmission in the Caprice. But before all that happened I went through and replaced some badly warn body bushings. All four front bushings were completely warn out. The remainder were satisfactory except for the very rear ones. These too were warn out.



Then we moved on to the engine. I'm not too impressed with the quality of the overseas parts. The motor mounts were a bit tight and the transmission mount wouldn't even come close to bolting up. So I had to go back to the one I removed when we pulled it out. The engine looks really good sitting in a clean engine compartment.





I thought about it after I had the engine in the car, but usually the left hand valve cover is dimpled to make room for the brake booster. Fortunately, I have a good strong 1/4" space between the booster and the valve cover.



A down low shot...



Lastly, We got the brakes all bled. The fronts were a piece of cake, but the back were a bit more of a challenge. I bled the M.C. prior to mounting it, but for some reason I had to go back and loosen the lines starting at the M.C. and working to the back brakes. But we got 'er done.

I've also been working on the window regulators, the front two are finished and I still have the two rear quarters to go. The hardest thing for me now is finding the round male plugs for the motors themselves. The two in the doors are shot, but the passenger side it toasted, with no possible replacement available. I'm going to call American Auto Wire tomorrow and see if I can get the plugs. C.I. has an adapter but I think its for the wrong side of the plug.

Until next time...

Chris

Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
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post #91 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-26-2016, 09:15 AM
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It looks like the engine mounts are the safety, or locking style ? That would be why they were tight to get on the stands. They are thicker than the original single rubber mount. The holes in the frame for the stand bolts on one side, I think the left, are slotted. By leaving them loose enough to move the stand around, you can align the thru bolt and then tighten the stand bolts again.

The trans mount SHOULD have been correct, unless that early TH400 requires a special mount ??

The car looks great...

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
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post #92 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-26-2016, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's View Post
It looks like the engine mounts are the safety, or locking style ? That would be why they were tight to get on the stands. They are thicker than the original single rubber mount. The holes in the frame for the stand bolts on one side, I think the left, are slotted. By leaving them loose enough to move the stand around, you can align the thru bolt and then tighten the stand bolts again.

The trans mount SHOULD have been correct, unless that early TH400 requires a special mount ??

The car looks great...

Yes, they're the safety kind. It would have been good to know about the slotted frame for the mount. But its in now. The holes in the trans mount just weren't wide enough for the tranny pad. Could be that the early trannys were a bit different.

And, Thanks, It does look good in there NOW.

Calling American Auto Wire today about the power window connectors. If I get any info I'll post it up.

Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

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post #93 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-26-2016, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Power Window Plugs

Okay, just got off the phone with AAW. Their P/N is 07655. $18.00 ea. CI is out of stock. These will plug directly into the window motor. One can just remove the parallel plug and splice into the existing harness or remove the female terminals from the plug and put them directly on the vehicle harness. I believe this is the only way of getting the necessary parts to get this working again.

http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...arts/7655.html

Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
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post #94 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-26-2016, 12:04 PM
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Lots of suppliers for AAW besides CI. Plug the part number into a search and they'll probably come up on ebay for less...

I've bought 3 complete conversion kits from a guy on ebay, but I don't remember the user name right now.

On the motor mounts, I know I have CDO, but if the thru bolts have tension on them, I would loosen the stand bolts and let it all "relax". The mount should sit on the stand, not depend on the bolt to hold the weight. But hey, don't let me make more work for you...

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
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post #95 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-26-2016, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Lots of suppliers for AAW besides CI. Plug the part number into a search and they'll probably come up on ebay for less...

I've bought 3 complete conversion kits from a guy on ebay, but I don't remember the user name right now.

On the motor mounts, I know I have CDO, but if the thru bolts have tension on them, I would loosen the stand bolts and let it all "relax". The mount should sit on the stand, not depend on the bolt to hold the weight. But hey, don't let me make more work for you...
The mounts are actually sitting on the stands. The thru bolts were off by a 1/16th. Just ran a drill through the hole all is good.

Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
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post #96 of 183 (permalink) Old 01-26-2016, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
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The mounts are actually sitting on the stands. The thru bolts were off by a 1/16th. Just ran a drill through the hole all is good.
Typical aftermarket...if it don't fit, modify it...

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
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post #97 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-01-2016, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #14 Engine Details

Its been a while since I last posted anything. I have stopped working on the window motors since the engine was installed. I'm eager to get this thing fired up. It looks so cool all clean and shiny sitting in the car.
So without further ado, Here we GO!

The carb has been put on, The distributor is put back in and the transmission cooling lines have been connected.



I have put the power steering pump on with a new cap that now seals when its on. The pressure hose I had gotten was 6" too long and wouldn't fit into the hose bracket. So I had to have it cut down and have a new end put on. The alternator upper mount had always been behind the alternator bracket. This didn't line up too well in the past. So I went on line and did some picture searching. I found out that the bolt comes in from the back side of the bracket into the upper mount.



Looking in the assembly book I found that the oil pressure line had 2 full turns on the tubing for flexing I guess. So I put 2 turns in the tubing.
After I had it all measured out, I cleared the tubing to keep if from tarnishing so it maintained that fresh factory look. I cleared the bonding wires as well.





Then I moved on to something that I feel is necessary and was used with the Holley carbs. A hard line vacuum tubing for the distributor. I had a tubing holder left over from my Nova build. This is a 3/16" brake line that I had bent to fit. I left it about 4" short from the dizzy so you can adjust it without having to move the tubing.







I have the engine wiring harness installed, along with the cap, rotor and new period correct OEM plug wires.
The S-I-L hated the Belken 8mm blue/purple plug wires.



A down low shot.
You may notice that the alternator belt is missing, For some reason the new belt that I crossed to wouldn't fit. So I'm now on my third attempt to get the correct belt. It's all good, thou, NAPA has the belt I need. The only reason this has been a pain is the car was modified for an internal voltage regulator vice the external one. The alternator is longer and it hits the valve cover when its pushed inwards. So the standard belt isn't long enough.



I just received the window switch connector from Hubbards today and I'm hoping that American Auto Wire is able to ship out the motor adapters this week.

I'm toying with the idea of using a corvette 375 hp accelerator return spring and mount. This would require me to weld a small tab onto the accelerator rod, no big deal.
I have an idea on how to mount the kick down switch and it would require me to use the corvette spring, because the switch needs to be in front of the throttle lever to activate the switch and the current spring will be in the way.

Until next time...

Chris

Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

Last edited by jayhawk500; 02-05-2016 at 11:08 AM.
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post #98 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-01-2016, 08:45 PM
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I see one problem.

That copper line you have run to your oil pressure tap on the block will break due to metal fatigue as the engine vibrates. You can lengthen the time it takes to break the copper line if you where to make a three loop (or more) coil of the tube to spread out the bending moment. The loops has to expand and contract like a coil spring in relation to the engine's movement to work.

It is just a lot easier to use a plastic line. Since I like a faster acting gauge I use a slightly larger tubing size than an eighth inch OD that you are now using. I prefer a High Density Polyethylene tubing of 3/16th inch (eighth inch ID) as that speeds up the gauge reaction time (too large and it will vibrate with each gear tooth passing the oil port in the pump).

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post #99 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-01-2016, 10:09 PM
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That copper oil tube will outlive a plastic tube that close to the header by far. The plastic will heat harden, get brittle and break. I don't use plastic at all and remove them on every car I work on. I've never had a copper tube fail but have seen plenty of plastic tubes break.

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
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post #100 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-02-2016, 12:04 AM
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Same here. I will not use anything but copper (which I've never seen give trouble) ever since I saw a mess created by a plastic line.
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