The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Engine Bay Restro - Page 5 - Impala Tech
Restoration Corner Aimed at Originality

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post #101 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-02-2016, 10:31 AM
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I use Copper tubing around any High Heat sources but I quickly convert over to HDP plastic tubing at the top of the motor to jump over to the fire wall and run inside the cabin. Plastic is easier to use when routing it under the dash to my gauges that are mounted on top of the dash where I can see them and it doesn't conduct electricity if it contacts something electrically hot under the dash.

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post #102 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-02-2016, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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GM used cooper oil lines years ago for a reason. I can always add 2 more loops in the line, since I have plenty of tubing on the inside. This line has been in the car for 5 years with no issues.

Chris
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post #103 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-05-2016, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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I got the new connectors today for the window motors. I post a post up in the "Electrical & Wiring" section.

Chris

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post #104 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-07-2016, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #15 Kickdown Sw.

After a long exhaustive search I final found a factory kick down switch for the transmission. I found it on ebay listed as a 69-70 SS Imapla 2BBL Turbo 400 kick down switch, So I snatched it up. I'm not a huge fan of elderbrock products, but its what I had to work with. With no kick down switch being made by that company, I had to put a B&M switch on about 8 years ago. Now with me "restoring" the engine compartment, I wanted something a little more original.

This is what I started with.



Luckily, With the way the switch bracket was made, I didn't have to raise or lower the mounts. I only had to cut the bracket in half and lengthen the bracket about 1 inch so it sat on the carb studs.

Then I set into trying to position the switch in a way that the terminals were out of the way of the metal bracket. So after cutting off the switch side of the bracket, I then cut off the part that the switch mounts into, and I re-welded it 180 degrees from what it was. Next I had to determine the distance from the throttle lever. I measured it out and bent a piece of metal so it matched the rest of the bracket. After which, I made the final measurement and welded it to the bracket.

Then it was on to the switch activator...This had to be mounted on the inside of the throttle lever. I used a piece of scrap metal I had left over from the switch bracket. I cut the lever so I would be able to bend the tab to get a smooth transition as the throttle opened. Then I welded on a very small piece to keep the tab from rotating since there was only one bolt holding the tab to the lever.

These are pictures after I had it painted. I never remember to take pictures while I do things.



Mounted on the carb and wired in. I put battery power to the wires at the wiper motor, actuated the lever and the transmission went click, click. Success.




Next it was on to the electric thermostat. I originally had this wired into the B&M switch. Totally crappy looking. So, out came the thermostat wire loom and I added the factory looking colored wire. Since the kick down switch was originally yellow for the ignition lead, I stayed with that to the + side of the carbs thermostat. A black wire went to the grounding point on the firewall. I ran the yellow to the same point as the kick down switch and tied them all together.





The last thing I need to do was figure out how to get the throttle return spring to work now that the kick down switch was in the way. So I reverted back to the 375 horse corvette and how that throttle return spring was set up. I went to Wilcox Corvette and purchased the bracket and spring. Then I made a bracket that would have to be welded to the throttle lever. The guy at Wilcox asked me what I was planning on doing and he made sure he told me to keep enough tension on the spring. Copy That!

This is the end result. I did have to make the loop in the spring smaller 'cause it was hitting the bolt on the throttle lever.
I also found out while assembling the throttle linkage the adjustment stud was back about an inch from where it is now. With it in the pervious position the throttle arm was hitting the firewall. This didn't allow the carb to come to WOT, it stop short of the secondary's opening. So after adjusting the stub I have about 1/4" between the arm and the firewall and the carb is now able to achieve WOT. So now this car will fly....



Until next time...

Chris

Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

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post #105 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-07-2016, 02:37 PM
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Your OCD is showing...

Even the mods are done so professionally as to look factory original to most...

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post #106 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-07-2016, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's View Post
Your OCD is showing...

Even the mods are done so professionally as to look factory original to most...
Thank you Mitch.

Chris
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post #107 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-07-2016, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #16 Front Fender

Well I thought I was all done fixing rusted out metal on this car. But the S-I-L's hubby pointed out some rusted out metal on the passenger fender. Right where the battery sits. Imagine that..... So I busted out the cut off saw and welder and got this thing repaired. Once again I get so into getting stuff repaired I forget to take pictures. So this is the beginning, I had already cut off the old tab, cut out the new metal and I have it already welded in at this point. This tab was missing the upper portion of the hole.

You may be wondering about the finish quality of the welds. I'm not too worried about any of these, They just need to be functional since these won't be seen once the car is assembled.



Then I moved on the inner brace. This is where I remembered to take pictures. So this may end up in two posts. Hopefully I can get it all into one.

Here's the infected area. The nut that was "staked" in the brace is missing. It must have been rusted to the bolt and then stripping out.



Then it was on to cutting and forming. I do things in little bites so I only have to do this once.



And the final product.



Traced out for the new piece. Cutting is to be done on the inside of the lines.



Sectioning out the bad metal.



Beginning to weld in the new metal.



Mostly welded in, just need to clean up some of the welds to continue welding.



All welded in, now its going to be primered and then undercoated. I wasn't worried about the nut. I'll drill a new hole when I go to put in the inner fender well.


Chris
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post #108 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-07-2016, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #16 Continued

Completed repair. All undercoated, should be able to withstand a few more decades.





This whole process took me about 4 hours to complete. I had to do some laundry, eat lunch, and run a medical call at the same time.

Until next time...

Chris

Chris
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post #109 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-07-2016, 08:18 PM
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I can't wait to see this when its done
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post #110 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-07-2016, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madencali View Post
I can't wait to see this when its done
It won't be long now. I'm working towards the end of the month, if all goes good.

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post #111 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-08-2016, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayhawk500 View Post
It won't be long now. I'm working towards the end of the month, if all goes good.
Nice!
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post #112 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-12-2016, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #17 Power Windows

Not much to report currently.

This past week has been extremely hard on everyone living and working in the northwestern corner of Oregon. If you haven't heard on the news...A very popular Seaside Police Officer was shot and killed in the line of duty while trying to serve an arrest warrant. He has left behind a wife and two young daughters. The Memorial Service was today at the convention center in Seaside. Some 1600 police officers from all over the Pacific Northwest, fire fighter, and first responders were in attendance. Sgt. Jason Goodding was a dad, friend, mentor and loving husband. An account has been set up at U.S. Bank in his name for donations or to the Oregon Fallen Badge Foundation.

So on a lighter note,

I have spent the past week dealing with the drivers side rear window motor.
WHAT A PAIN IN THE A$$. You have to disassemble this thing in a certain order and re-assemble in a certain order. What made things worse was the fact that the plug terminals were corroded to the spade terminals on the motor.

This was a perfectly good motor that worked okay, it just needed to be cleaned up. Consequently, as I tried to remove the terminals the male terminal inside the motor broke off.





Once I figured out how this went together, it went back together with little difficulty, but still a pain trying to get it adjusted.
I did get the passenger side out tonight, cleaned up, and resealed. Its ready to go back in tomorrow morning. Once I get that finished, I believe the S-I-L will be over on Sunday and we'll be putting the front end back on.

On another note, The drivers door trim is missing some fasteners. These look to be a special item. I haven't looked real hard yet. This is what they are and if someone knows of a supplier, please let me know.









The last picture is of a broken stud.

Hopefully, The Caprice will begin to look like a car again this weekend.

Until next time...

Chris
Warrenton, OR

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post #113 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-13-2016, 07:43 AM
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Nice save on the fender..

The speed nuts for the trim can be hard to find at the usual vendors.

I have a local Ace Hardware that has them in a variety pack...2-3 each of several sizes. Might try a hardware store.

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post #114 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-13-2016, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Mitch. I'll take a look. My Ace Hardware is 30 miles away. I may hit you up.

Chris
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post #115 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-19-2016, 10:38 PM
 
 
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Uncle Chris. They have those in stock in different sizes at O'Reilly's.
D3
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post #116 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-20-2016, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Uncle Chris. They have those in stock in different sizes at O'Reilly's.
D3
Okay, I'll take a look.

Chris
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post #117 of 183 (permalink) Old 02-21-2016, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #18 Progress

I didn't get a chance to post anything up earlier in the week, So here we go.

I'm going to begin by saying it's starting to look more like a complete car. There is now 75% more bolts in the fenders than there was when we removed them. Everything lined up perfectly and I had enough shims to get the job done.



Next I started working on the exhaust system hangars. Since you can't get these anymore and the ones I've seen on eBay are selling for upwards of $100 each. I decided I could rebuild them. All I needed was the rubber strap right? So after doing some searching, I found some 1/4" conveyor belt. I cut the rivets loose from each one and bagged each hangar so I didn't get things mixed up. Then off to the sandblaster I went. I came back home and had to fix the two muffler hangars b y welding new ends on. Then I painted all the metal pieces with Duplicolor Cast Iron engine paint. I notice that the drivers side rubber pieces had a white stripe running the length of the piece. So, I duplicated that with some white epoxy paint. Then I set in to re-assemble each one.

Just so you know, This process took me about a week to get done. But that was only a couple of hours a night on and off during the week.









As Mitch said earlier, My OCD is showing again....No, I just want to make it right.



And the finished products.



After I got the hangars installed back on the car, I started working on the carpet. This little project took up pretty much the whole weekend. The carpet didn't fit quite right and I had to use my heat gun to get it to fit.
I hope the rear seat will cover up the upper portion of the carpet in the back, otherwise the manufacture will be getting a very unhappy phone call.





Although it doesn't show it in the pictures I did get the shifter installed.

Until next time...

Chris
Warrenton, OR

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'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
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post #118 of 183 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #19 Radiator Work

So after looking for info on an OEM radiator mounting strap, I can officially say a standard transmission and an automatic transmission radiator are not only physically different due to the tranny cooler but the mounting points are physically different too.

NickE had posted up the measurement of a radiator he had on eBay for sale after I contacted his through Ebay.

I wacked off the offending universal mounts that didn't line up with any holes what so ever. AHHHH, a clean slate to work with.







I went and bought some 18 gauge mild steel, cut it to length, and bent it at work. I messed up on the bends and got the steel too wide. So I cut it lengthwise and mounted each piece by it self.





Then it was on to trial and fit until I got the desired effect I was after.
The location of the holes for the radiator support side were too low causing the radiator to sit higher on the support. This in turn, caused the fan shroud to sit on the fitting for the tranny cooler. So after taking careful measurements it was determined I had to lower the radiator 5/8". So I drilled new holes and double checked everything before I went any further.

This is the final product.



While I was wire wheeling the crappy paint off the radiator I noticed some calcium build up on some of the cooling tubes. It's hard to see but it's there.



I called what used to be the local radiator shop and was told, "We don't do radiators anymore. You need to go to Portland." This wasn't an option. So I started by Googling, How to remove calcium from the radiator. I saw everything from using muriatic acid, vinegar, hydrochloric acid, CLR and the like. I saw that CLR didn't work, the acids were too strong and would attack the copper and brass. So I opted to use vinegar. I went and bought 2 gallons of white vinegar and poured it into the radiator. I worked the vinegar back and forth trying to get out all of the air bubbles.

You can just about see the build up in this picture.



This is after about 2 hours.



This isn't a fast process...This was started on last Monday and I drained and flushed the radiator this afternoon. The calcium is very soft for what didn't flush out. The vinegar is a milky white vice being clear. My plan is to do the same process to the heater core. Wish I would have done this before I started re-assembling everything. But I can get it done.

When I started the vinegar process, the vinegar started leaking out the overflow tube. I guess the cap isn't any good. I'm looking for a NOS/Restoration AC Delco RC-15 cap.

As a last little teaser... I did get the back seat area all put back together.



Until next time.

Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

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post #119 of 183 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #20 Console and Dash

It's been a couple of weeks, so I'll get right to it.

As with any of the fixes on the Caprice most of these were self induced by the ex-husband. He felt compelled to cut the bezel to install a stereo in the car.



So after doing a exhaustive search on eBay and the internet I didn't find a bezel worth buying. Then I went to the Classic wrecking yard 2 hours away. They had one from an Impala. They sent me pictures and I said, "Yep, I'll take it." It sat in my computer room right next to the computer I do these updates on. It came time to prep and paint the new bezel for installation, and as I was painting the piece I noticed something was wrong.

Original from the Caprice.



New one from the Wrecking Yard.



Do you see it?

The end is missing on the bezel.

So next came the alternate method. I'll cut the radio portion out of the new bezel and put it in the OE bezel. Sure, I can do this......

So once again...I didn't take any pictures of what I did. This is what I started with. I did fix the right hole 'cause it was missing as most of these were/are. Then I reinforced the hole to support the weight of the radio.



So what I did was: I cut the radio mount off of the bezel. Then I sanded everything down using my bench belt sander to the outside of the raised chrome bead that goes around the black corrugated plastic.

Then, I started to very carefully grind out the black corrugated plastic of the OE bezel. I stopped just inside the raised chrome bead. I did this as a safety measure in case I screwed up I still had the other chrome bead I could use.

I then went back to the radio mount and then very carefully, sanded off the chrome bead. Once complete it was trial and fit to get it into the OE bezel.
Once I was satisfied with the fit. I used ABS glue and glued it into place. I put masking tape on in the center to pull the bezel together.



While I had the bezel upside down and before the glue started to run I put a coat of glue around the whole seam. Then I turned the bezel right side up to prevent the glue from running to the front side.



This is the final product.



I'm waiting on parts for the radio since they didn't come with it.

So while I'm waiting I started in on the console. I found one on ebay and after talking with the guy I was able to get only the plastic part of the console. I didn't need all of the bling it had on it. I could use what I had already. I washed all of the metal parts in hot soapy water and dry them.

Then I set in to re-assemble the console. Once again the ex-hubby messed things up here too.

The pieces are just sitting where they go.



The gauge pack is screwed to the console. It wasn't before. The screw holes were enlarged on the OE console.



New carpet installed, wiring and ash tray. The ash tray was missing in action for many years.


Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
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post #120 of 183 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #20 Continuation

So yesterday I installed the console in the car, and hooked everything up. This too, now has 3 more screws in it than when I took it out.



I plan on disassembling the from bumper so I can blast the brackets. But the big plan is to get the exhaust re-installed so I can get the driveshaft installed.



We're getting close, I need to have the car out of the garage by the end of the month.

Until next time....

Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
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post #121 of 183 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016, 02:21 PM
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WOW, nice job on the bezel. I don't know anybody that would tackle that and be successful with ABS plastic...

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post #122 of 183 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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WOW, nice job on the bezel. I don't know anybody that would tackle that and be successful with ABS plastic...
Thanks Mitch!
Slow and steady wins the race. This was a very delicate operation. It did give me a bit of anxiety when I started, The first cut was the hardest. But it helped having a duplicate bezel from the same mold. One needs to take his time and not hurry. These bezels are getting harder and harder to find.

Chris
Warrenton, OR

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post #123 of 183 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #21 Final Assembly

This is the second time I putting up this post. The first one disappeared on me. Sorry its taken so long to update my progress, but I've been busting my tail trying to get this car finished before the S-I-L leaves for a 10 day vacation to Mexico.


So here we go. This will be in 3 parts due to all the pictures.


When I went to install the exhaust back in the car, I noticed that the header collectors didn't match. So off to the parts store I went and picked up the correct one for the headers. I then carefully measured, cut and weld on the new collectors. After which I painted them with header paint to keep them from rusting.


Flat Flange



Beveled Flange




Correct Flat Flange








The system went back in very easy and it was a bit of a challenge to get the muffler brackets to attach to the pipes but I got'er done.


Then I moved on to getting the radio permanently installed into the dash. I forgot how much a pain in the A$$ it is to install a dash this size. You need 2 people, 6 hands, and the steering column needs to be out of the way. But it looks good sitting where it need to be.






Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

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post #124 of 183 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #21 Part 2

After I got the dash installed I moved on to the inner fender wells, But I had to install the wiring harness first. But before I did that I need to modify the headlight harness to get direct power to the headlights, and this is how I did it.


I went to the local log truck parts store and purchased Hella 30 amp relays and sockets.





I opened up the wire bundle and located the Lt. Green and Tan wires and cut them. I added extra wire from my Nova project to the firewall side so the wires would reach to where I was putting the relays. These are the "control" wires for the relays.











I then ran a 12 gauge Red wire from the battery junction block across the front of the car to the left headlight area and spliced in 2 - 16 gauge fusible links. These are the battery power to the headlights through the relay.


Once I got the ground wires and headlight wires installed into the relay sockets I screwed them to the radiator support next to the horn relay.











After I got this done I put the inner fender wells in.






Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

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post #125 of 183 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #21 Part 3

Then I moved on to installing the re-upholstered seats. But I have one question...How does the seat belts go in the car? I didn't take any pictures and the assembly manual nor the Fisher Body Manual say anything about seat belts.
I have the male end of the buckle next to the door and the buckle itself on the inside.








So here is what I'm looking for... an extra seat belt set for the rear seat in black. Grandkids you know.
I'm also looking for the 2 windshield washer tubing clips that go on the cowl vent. These disappeared when the car was painted years back.




So here is a final picture of the Engine Bay Restoration on the S-I-L's '66 Caprice.


Before





and After





I wish I could say this is a very happy ending to a 6 month process. But as Jerry and I were test driving the car be sure everything was working correctly, the engine developed a knock in the lower half of the engine. I'm thinking it spun a rod bearing.
The S-I-L will be over tomorrow to see the final project completed and we'll make a decision on what we're going to do. If it's just a rod bearing and no damage to the rod, it'll be a simple crank and bearing change. But it's frustrating to spend 6 months restoring (sort of) a car and have it have engine problems. The bad part is... I didn't do any engine work, only changed the gaskets. Yes, I did pre-prime the engine before I fired it up.


But it's on to getting my cars cleaned up for the upcoming car show season. I just may have to yard the motor out and open the lower end. It's going to kill me to have someone else fix the motor and not take care when doing it. It'll be like a bull in a china shop. No care will be taken.


I'll keep everyone up on the progress of that.


Anyone want a dog?


Until next time.....

Chris
Warrenton, OR

'70 Chevelle
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

Last edited by jayhawk500; 03-26-2016 at 01:14 PM.
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