The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Engine Bay Restro - Page 6 - Impala Tech
Restoration Corner Aimed at Originality

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #126 of 183 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016, 01:20 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Stillwater, Minnesota
Posts: 328
 
You have the seat belts correct. There are aftermarket retractors that will pull them back to the sleeve.

Bummer about the knock, but pull the inspection cover and make certain the torque converter to flex plate bolts got tightened. They will make that same noise too.

The underhood "after" pic looks phenomenal...

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
Lost in the 60's is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #127 of 183 (permalink) Old 03-26-2016, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Warrenton, OR.
Posts: 238
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's View Post
You have the seat belts correct. There are aftermarket retractors that will pull them back to the sleeve.

Bummer about the knock, but pull the inspection cover and make certain the torque converter to flex plate bolts got tightened. They will make that same noise too.

The underhood "after" pic looks phenomenal...
I do have seat belts for the outer positions. I'm looking to add a third set for the center.


Good point on the torque converter. I'm almost positive I did tighten the up when I put the bolts in, but stranger things than that has happened while doing this car.
**EDIT** I checked the bolts and only got less than 1/2 turn on all 3 bolts.


Thank you!

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

Last edited by jayhawk500; 03-27-2016 at 08:39 PM.
jayhawk500 is offline  
post #128 of 183 (permalink) Old 03-27-2016, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Warrenton, OR.
Posts: 238
 
The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #22 She sees her Car

The S-I-L sees her completed car for the first time in 6 weeks. I purposely kept her away 'cause I wanted to get her reaction on video.



Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

Last edited by jayhawk500; 03-29-2016 at 10:31 AM.
jayhawk500 is offline  
 
post #129 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 10:52 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Stillwater, Minnesota
Posts: 328
 
What became of the engine noise, Chris ?

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
Lost in the 60's is offline  
post #130 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 04:12 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,053
Blog Entries: 1
 
S-I-L car

I don't think she seemed excited enough. I think it's hard for someone outside the realm of a true car enthusiast to understand the amount of work and dedication that went into this re-build. I guess we appreciate it more because we were virtually there every step of the way.

Beutiful job and I'm sure we all appreciated it very much!!!!!!

Paul Winvoices

Paul

1966 Impala SS

Please Visit our new site:
http://www.winvoices.com/
1959 through 1988* window stickers, car shippers, dealer invoices, retail sales orders and tank stickers, expertly reproduced, for most Chevrolet Models.





fsc66 is offline  
post #131 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Warrenton, OR.
Posts: 238
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's View Post
What became of the engine noise, Chris ?
The car is parked in my driveway wrapped under a tarp. I'm trying to get my 2 cars ready for this seasons car shows. Once I get done with that, Then I'm going to yard out the motor and investigate the noise.




Quote:
Originally Posted by fsc66 View Post
I don't think she seemed excited enough. I think it's hard for someone outside the realm of a true car enthusiast to understand the amount of work and dedication that went into this re-build. I guess we appreciate it more because we were virtually there every step of the way.

Beutiful job and I'm sure we all appreciated it very much!!!!!!

Paul Winvoices


Thanks Paul! Vicki, doesn't really get excited over things like this. She was there for most of the repair work and sand blasting. But she truly, does appreciate the hard work I poured into getting the car cleaned up and looking better.


I'll post something up, as I start the engine pulling process. I'll document this process as well. It should be in a week or two.


Until next time.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
jayhawk500 is offline  
post #132 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Warrenton, OR.
Posts: 238
 
So, a mechanic friend of my came over yesterday and did a little diagnosis on the motor. He is 95% sure its not a crank and rod issue, but a cam issue. Seems the cam is hitting the timing cover, maybe. Won't know for sure it I get it pulled and torn down.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
jayhawk500 is offline  
post #133 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-16-2016, 08:59 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,306
 
You can run the engine with rags covering the valve springs to prevent oil squirting across the garage (still makes a mess but it is easier to clean up than tearing everything down). No noise then your rocker arms are hitting your valve covers. Common complaint with roller rockers.


Big Dave
Big Dave is online now  
post #134 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-17-2016, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Warrenton, OR.
Posts: 238
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
You can run the engine with rags covering the valve springs to prevent oil squirting across the garage (still makes a mess but it is easier to clean up than tearing everything down). No noise then your rocker arms are hitting your valve covers. Common complaint with roller rockers.


Big Dave
No roller rockers, stock rockers. I did the screwdriver to the ear trick and didn't hear anything other than the solid lifters going tick, tick, tick. The sound is coming from the center of the engine behind the water pump. I thought it was the pump, but we removed the belt and still had it.
I'm thinking cam and fuel pump rod. ????


I was in the process of building my engine sling, and ran out of welding wire. So now its a trip to the industrial store this morning for more .030 wire.
Picture to follow.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
jayhawk500 is offline  
post #135 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Warrenton, OR.
Posts: 238
 
The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Engine Rebuild Update #1

I'm continuing with the same thread, but starting over with the updates since this is all related.


As promised...Here's a picture of the engine sling I built. This is modeled after the one I used to pull the engine the first time.





And so we begin. One complete, engine compartment.







Radiator removed, P.S. disconnected, and fan removed. This is where I stopped the first night. It's supposed to rain starting on Friday, so the plan is to have the motor out Thursday night.




Doing this really hurts!


More to follow,
Until next time.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
jayhawk500 is offline  
post #136 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016, 05:42 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,306
 
If you used an aftermarket double row roller timing chain it could a connecting link that might be hitting the block as it rotates. I have experienced that problem occasionally with a BBC. I had to grind the block to clear the chain going around the cam gear.


Big Dave
Big Dave is online now  
post #137 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Warrenton, OR.
Posts: 238
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
If you used an aftermarket double row roller timing chain it could a connecting link that might be hitting the block as it rotates. I have experienced that problem occasionally with a BBC. I had to grind the block to clear the chain going around the cam gear.


Big Dave
This was a running engine when I pulled it. I didn't do any engine work other than re-gasketing it to fix the oil leaks. This engine should have never failed.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
jayhawk500 is offline  
post #138 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Warrenton, OR.
Posts: 238
 
The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Engine Rebuild Update #2

This will be short. The engine is all disconnected and ready to pull. Only 2 bolts hold the tranny and engine together. I'm going to have to replace the NEW engine mounts 'cause they're CRAP! The bolts bent and one started to strip and gall. So I need to find a better quality motor mount. I'm going to let my NAPA store know that, that brand of motor mount sucks.



Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

Last edited by jayhawk500; 04-22-2016 at 10:15 AM.
jayhawk500 is offline  
post #139 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-20-2016, 12:17 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 183
 
Motor-mounts --> When I did my engine rebuild, I re-used the ones that were on the car. One was an original and the other about 10 years old. Maybe you can find some NOS mounts.

1967 Chevrolet Impala SS convertible - Ermine White C1
1967 Chevrolet Impala SS 396 - Marina Blue FF
BigDogSS is offline  
post #140 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-20-2016, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Warrenton, OR.
Posts: 238
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogSS View Post
Motor-mounts --> When I did my engine rebuild, I re-used the ones that were on the car. One was an original and the other about 10 years old. Maybe you can find some NOS mounts.

I found a guy in California that has USA made motor mounts. Believe I'm going to go with those.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
jayhawk500 is offline  
post #141 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Warrenton, OR.
Posts: 238
 
The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Engine Rebuild Update #3

Jerry and I pulled the engine yesterday. After we got it in the garage and on the stand, I started pulling stuff. First I pulled the valve covers. Nothing found.





Then I pulled the intake. I was looking for bent push rods or scored cam lobes. Nothing found.





Then I pulled the oil pan. I also looked down the fuel pump bore at the lobe. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary. I didn't pull the rod and main caps yet. I want to do this as a last resort. I'll pull the balancer and timing cover tonight. Hopefully this is where I find where the noise is coming from. The oil was almost black when I drained it. It appeared that it had some metal particles in it. But the black could have been from the assembly lube I put on the fuel pump rod when I re-assembled the engine.





Until next time....

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
jayhawk500 is offline  
post #142 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Warrenton, OR.
Posts: 238
 
The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Engine Rebuild Update #4

I found the source of the noise. Now I just have to figure out how to fix it.
My mechanic friend should hopefully be stopping by later this afternoon or tomorrow.







Until next time...

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
jayhawk500 is offline  
post #143 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 01:43 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Stillwater, Minnesota
Posts: 328
 
Did you change the cam or cover ??
It may just need a cam walk button, or the cover got bent in a little ??

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
Lost in the 60's is offline  
post #144 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-23-2016, 04:53 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,306
 
I have seen the timing chain hit in the back of the gear cavity on the block a few times, but that is the first one that I have seen hit the cover. The cam generally is pushed to the rear of the block by the valve spring pressure pushing at the slight angle formed between the top of the cam lobe and the concave bottom of the flat tappet lifter. Oil pressure pushes the cam forward again as the rear of the cam tunnel is part of the oiling system. Were you running an excessive oil pressure (high pressure oil pump)?


Big Dave
Big Dave is online now  
post #145 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Warrenton, OR.
Posts: 238
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's View Post
Did you change the cam or cover ??
It may just need a cam walk button, or the cover got bent in a little ??

Nothing was changed other than sandblasting the cover and using a Felpro cover gasket with a very small amount of gasket RTV as a sealer and torqueing the bolts it to spec. Yeah, it was suggested to get a cam walk button.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
I have seen the timing chain hit in the back of the gear cavity on the block a few times, but that is the first one that I have seen hit the cover. The cam generally is pushed to the rear of the block by the valve spring pressure pushing at the slight angle formed between the top of the cam lobe and the concave bottom of the flat tappet lifter. Oil pressure pushes the cam forward again as the rear of the cam tunnel is part of the oiling system. Were you running an excessive oil pressure (high pressure oil pump)?


Big Dave
The oil pump is the one that was in the engine when I removed the engine from the car the first time. Now...for some reason I'm beginning to remember, (but old timers is hitting me pretty hard right now), I'm thinking that the cam freeze plug came out and instead of replacing it, I RTV'd it back into place. 'Cause there's RTV around the cam plug. I just don't vividly remembering doing it. The RTV is the same color as the rest of the RTV I used on the gaskets.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
jayhawk500 is offline  
post #146 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 11:02 AM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,306
 
Quote:
The oil pump is the one that was in the engine when I removed the engine from the car the first time. Now...for some reason I'm beginning to remember, (but old timers is hitting me pretty hard right now), I'm thinking that the cam freeze plug came out and instead of replacing it, I RTV'd it back into place. 'Cause there's RTV around the cam plug. I just don't vividly remembering doing it. The RTV is the same color as the rest of the RTV I used on the gaskets.

It is a good thing you pulled the engine then. You will need to replace that old RTV'd Welch plug with a new one as it needs to be an interference fit to hold that much area against the possible maximum oil pressure generated. You don't want it blowing out and pumping your engine's life blood onto the road way as it bleeds to death.


What I do in my builds is to install a Holley Safety cut off switch (intended to kill the electric fuel pump if your car turns turtle and you find yourself upside down with the motor sucking air instead of oil). It will disengage if the oil pressure falls below 5 PSI cutting off the fuel pump to prevent a possible fire. I use it to save a motor by killing the ignition if I loose oil pressure (think of it as a self acting idiot light that that does something useful instead of just glowing red to tell you that you just lost a motor).


Holley Safety Fuel Pressure Switches 12-810 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing


While you are holding the ignition switch on start the switch is by passed and the starter motor will generate more than 5 psi as the motor turns over. Once it is running and on the ignition run part of the ignition switch you are protected if you every loose oil pressure.


Big Dave
Big Dave is online now  
post #147 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 11:35 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Stillwater, Minnesota
Posts: 328
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayhawk500 View Post
Nothing was changed other than sandblasting the cover and using a Felpro cover gasket with a very small amount of gasket RTV as a sealer and torqueing the bolts it to spec. Yeah, it was suggested to get a cam walk button.



The oil pump is the one that was in the engine when I removed the engine from the car the first time. Now...for some reason I'm beginning to remember, (but old timers is hitting me pretty hard right now), I'm thinking that the cam freeze plug came out and instead of replacing it, I RTV'd it back into place. 'Cause there's RTV around the cam plug. I just don't vividly remembering doing it. The RTV is the same color as the rest of the RTV I used on the gaskets.
Check for clearance between the cam gear and block. If you can't push it against the block, you may have found what caused the gear to move forward and the chain to rub. That plug should just be a hair in from flush and may be a shallower plug than a frost plug. It isn't there for frost, it's just to fill the came bore hole.
As a second condition to check, see if the cam lobes are centered in the lifter bores. If they are slightly forward too, you know what to do...

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
Lost in the 60's is offline  
post #148 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Warrenton, OR.
Posts: 238
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's View Post
Check for clearance between the cam gear and block. If you can't push it against the block, you may have found what caused the gear to move forward and the chain to rub. That plug should just be a hair in from flush and may be a shallower plug than a frost plug. It isn't there for frost, it's just to fill the came bore hole.
As a second condition to check, see if the cam lobes are centered in the lifter bores. If they are slightly forward too, you know what to do...
Thanks Mitch, I'll take a look.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
jayhawk500 is offline  
post #149 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 11:57 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 12,306
 
Cam buttons are only used on roller cams.


All "flat" tappet cams are not flat. They have a concave bottom that sits almost half off the lobe so that the cam will spin the lifter in the bore as the cam lobe rotates up and down. Because they are not flat the cam will walk to the back of the block under valve spring pressure. More pressure the more it wants to go back.





Big Dave
Big Dave is online now  
post #150 of 183 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Warrenton, OR.
Posts: 238
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's View Post
Check for clearance between the cam gear and block. If you can't push it against the block, you may have found what caused the gear to move forward and the chain to rub. That plug should just be a hair in from flush and may be a shallower plug than a frost plug. It isn't there for frost, it's just to fill the came bore hole.
As a second condition to check, see if the cam lobes are centered in the lifter bores. If they are slightly forward too, you know what to do...
I pulled the cam gear and from what I can tell the cam gear is riding on the block like it's supposed to do. But I did find that there is about 1/4" + deflection in the timing chain. So, I'm looking to replace the timing chain and gears. I'm not use to seeing so much deflection, this may fix my issue.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
jayhawk500 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Impala Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome