The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Engine Bay Restro - Impala Tech
Restoration Corner Aimed at Originality

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post #1 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Engine Bay Restro

This is the beginning of a restoration for the S-I-L's engine compartment. Please chime in with any suggestions. You all are the experts in these wonderful vintage muscle cars.

The car will be having the a/c removed and an a/c delete cover installed. I will also be modifying the aftermarket disc brake modification, by adding a proportioning valve and new brake lines and a new master cylinder since the rear seal on the M.C. let go. Nice quality piece, .

So here we go, Lots of pictures will be to follow in the future. Hopefully, someone with lesser experience will be able to use some of this information. Like I said chime in with any suggestions. I'm going for the stock factory look with some small modifications. The engine will not be disassembled for overhaul. It's got about 10K on the rebuild 20 years ago, and runs like a top.

Engine all disconnected and ready to pull.



The radiator support has been removed to ease the removal for the engine and transmission.



The happy owners are cleaning the 50+ years of crud from the tranny and engine. They used Dawn, Simple Green and Easy Off oven cleaner. They had help from the granddaughter. That didn't last long!





Engine bay has been pressure washed, but still needs to be de-greased.






Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
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post #2 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Semi-clean 396 and Turbo 400.









That's all for now. Until next time.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
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post #3 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-25-2015, 10:18 PM
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Check the angle the push rod on the brake pedal makes with the brake booster. It can not be too extreme an angle or you will start to get a series of bad master cylinder seal issues. Should be close to in line so all of the force is applied in a straight line not cocked to one side that will cause the master cylinder piston to cock in the bore.

From memory the power assist rod is placed in the lower brake pedal hole. Length shape of the end of the rod are also very important as there are two or three possible pistons to mate with that have cups or divots to deep holes depending upon the rod. All of the brake parts have to match what the factory used to get trouble free safe brake operation.

Big Dave
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post #4 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Big Dave. I'll look into it when I reassemble it.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
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post #5 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 12:59 PM
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When I converted my '66 Chevelle, I used a correct '67 GTO disc/drum master, hold off valve, distribution block and pre-bent hard lines. No prop valve needed. It all looks and works as original, with the exception of the 11" booster. I later swapped in a correct 9" booster, but no pic of that.
The brakes themselves are from '74 Nova.

I got all my parts form In-line Tube, but I can't recommend them, as a couple years later, I ordered a conversion system for a '72 Chevelle and they messed it completely up and it took a lot of time to get it all straightened out. Most of the latest reviews aren't favorable.

Try The Right Stuff for conversion parts. http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/




'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
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post #6 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-26-2015, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #1

Welcome to the next installment of my progress on the Caprice.
Tonight I started to conquer the rotted out radiator support mount.
I first started off by removing the mount support by drilling out the spot welds.



The mount support and the inner panel were Swiss Cheese. I figured I conquer this in sections. That way I can work the bends into the metal without too much difficulty.



The worst section welded in. I'll be taking the sheet metal to work tomorrow and using the turret punch to punch out the 1 3/8" holes for the bushing mount.



I have the bottom section cut out, I just need to clean up the edges to get a proper weld. I used a red scuff pad on my dye grinder to remove as much rust as possible. Then I rust treated the metal. Tomorrow I'll use weld through primer to help protect what's left.



Until next time.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

Last edited by jayhawk500; 10-28-2015 at 12:12 AM.
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post #7 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #1 Continuation

Here is the second half of repairing the radiator support mount.
After punching out the hole for the bushing mount, I put in the bottom half of the repair.



Then I started in the the mount bracket itself. Since this part isn't available by itself, I had to fix it. I ended up cutting off the outer sides and welding them to the new metal. The finished product. Looks almost new.



Here I just set the repaired piece in place to see how it looks. I still need to primer and paint between the layers before I weld it in place.



And as a recap, This is whats left with what I started with. Swiss Cheese.



Given the fact that the lower portion of the radiator support is rusted worse than the upper portion, I think I'm going to undercoat the rusted area for additional protection after I clean it up and paint it.

That's it for now.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
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post #8 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 12:35 AM
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You do very nice work.
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post #9 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 07:35 AM
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Excellent repair !! It's obvious this isn't your first rodeo..

For the protection between the pieces, I use an epoxy primer from Eastwood. It's a real 2 part epoxy in a spray can. Don't know if you can find something similar locally, but it does work well to prevent future rust.

Are you going to drill/punch holes in the brace to plug weld to the support ?

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2...html?reltype=3


'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
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post #10 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 07:42 AM
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Here's a link to Hubbard's Impala Parts for the bushing set.

I've gotten parts from them and some are completely wrong, so I can't 100% endorse them...hopefully these are technically correct.

https://www.impalaparts.com/products...INGS&CatId=207

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
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post #11 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's View Post
When I converted my '66 Chevelle, I used a correct '67 GTO disc/drum master, hold off valve, distribution block and pre-bent hard lines. No prop valve needed.
I see I worded that incorrectly... the distribution block is the PROP valve...no REGULATOR needed, as seen in your pic...sorry...

The prop valve was too large to mount on the inside of the frame on the Chevelle, so I moved it to the top of the frame. I can't, for the life of me, find that pic now. The Caprice frame may have more clearance between the header tube and the frame for the block.

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
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post #12 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth View Post
You do very nice work.
Thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's View Post
I see I worded that incorrectly... the distribution block is the PROP valve...no REGULATOR needed, as seen in your pic...sorry...

The prop valve was too large to mount on the inside of the frame on the Chevelle, so I moved it to the top of the frame. I can't, for the life of me, find that pic now. The Caprice frame may have more clearance between the header tube and the frame for the block.
It's all good. I'll be putting the proportioning up next to the master cylinder. I'll see if I can get the epoxy paint locally. I've gotten stuff from Eastwood in the past and it takes forever. Hazmat has to come by ground and I'm as far west as one can be in the continental US.

I have Hubbards in my "Favorites". Tamraz's has them too and are a bit more expensive.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

Last edited by jayhawk500; 10-28-2015 at 10:53 AM.
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post #13 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 11:35 AM
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Hi Chris,
Great job on the core support repair! You look to be very experienced.
Questions:
1) Why are you removing the A/C?
2) What would keep you from removing the rest of the front-clip? I just went through a restoration of the engine compartment of my 1967 Impala SS. I removed EVERYTHING from the firewall forward. With the sheet metal removed, cleaning, painting and working on sub-assemblies was so much easier.

For ordering parts and to save on shipping, you might try some of the suppliers in California:
http://carsinc.com/
http://www.classicindustries.com/
http://www.truckandcarshop.com/
I think you may be able to order Eastwood products from these shops.

1967 Chevrolet Impala SS convertible - Ermine White C1
1967 Chevrolet Impala SS 396 - Marina Blue FF

Last edited by BigDogSS; 10-28-2015 at 12:36 PM.
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post #14 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 01:41 PM
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I was kinda thinking the same thing as BigDog.....now would be the time to replace the control arm bushings. Be even easier with the fenders off.

I found this doing a search. I don't know how they figure it's an epoxy with only 1 part, but it sounds interesting. May be available locally too.

http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/epoxypaint/

http://www.rustoleum.com/product-cat...ts/epoxy-paint

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
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post #15 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 05:17 PM
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I've used that VHT 'epoxy' paint quite a bit and I like it.

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
http://www.impalas.net/forums/blog.php?u=1432
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post #16 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BA. View Post
I've used that VHT 'epoxy' paint quite a bit and I like it.
That's what I like to hear. A real review from someone who has used it...thanks !

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
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post #17 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogSS View Post
Hi Chris,
Great job on the core support repair! You look to be very experienced.
Questions:
1) Why are you removing the A/C?
2) What would keep you from removing the rest of the front-clip? I just went through a restoration of the engine compartment of my 1967 Impala SS. I removed EVERYTHING from the firewall forward. With the sheet metal removed, cleaning, painting and working on sub-assemblies was so much easier.

For ordering parts and to save on shipping, you might try some of the suppliers in California:
http://carsinc.com/
http://www.classicindustries.com/
http://www.truckandcarshop.com/
I think you may be able to order Eastwood products from these shops.
If you go look at the "Welcome" postings, I got a picture of the Nova there. The wife and I did all the work except the finish bodywork and painting.

To answer your first question:

The a/c condenser was removed many, many years ago. So the system was open to the atmosphere. 5+ years ago I removed the compressor and evap. These items have been in storage in a humid environment. Then on top of it, converting the car to R-134a from R-12. So currently its cost prohibitive. All of the parts will be kept with the car and some day the S-I-L may have it re-installed. But everything would have to be replaced. My best guess would be over $1000. But the option will always be there.

Question #2: I didn't want to lose the alignment of the front fenders. The car was hastily re-assembled with minimal bolts and not automotive hardware at that. So keeping what I have is important. I will probably remove them one at a time to remove the surface rust on the inside that I recently found. While redoing my Nova the past few years, I learned trying to re-align old sheet metal that has been off the car for a period of time is a pain.
The plan is...Once I get the radiator support finished and the forward portion of the framed cleaned up and painted, re-install the support and then remove the inner fender wells, just so I can keep the alignment. I may at that time remove one fender at a time, reworking one side at a time.

Hope this makes sense. Plus my room in the garage is limited to where the car is sitting. The other half is storage, Which is a longer story.

Thanks for the links, I use C.I. all the time. The other 2 I'll look at.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
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post #18 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BA. View Post
I've used that VHT 'epoxy' paint quite a bit and I like it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's View Post
That's what I like to hear. A real review from someone who has used it...thanks !
I've too have used VHT paint on the headers for the Nova. I liked that way it lays down for a rattle can and how it holds up. Thanks for the suggestion.

My local NAPA sells the VHT paint, I'll see if they have the epoxy paint and rust encapsulator.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
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post #19 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 07:35 PM
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I hear you on the fender alignment. I was spooked when I pulled mine off as the paint was still good. I was able to make friends with a body guy and talked him into coming to my house and hang the fenders. I was expecting it to be a long, drawn out process, like 8+ hours. He had both fenders on and aligned in under 2 hours!! And he made it look easy!! It would have gone quicker if we didn't have an issue with a rusted bolt.
I would still recommend it.
I'll post pictures of before and during of my project, if you are interested.
I went to your "Welcome post" and looked at your cars and the Caprice you are working on. They are all very nice!!
All three of those companies have pretty good paper catalogs.

1967 Chevrolet Impala SS convertible - Ermine White C1
1967 Chevrolet Impala SS 396 - Marina Blue FF

Last edited by BigDogSS; 10-28-2015 at 08:16 PM.
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post #20 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-29-2015, 11:59 AM
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Here are a couple of pictures. The first one is after dis-assembly, power-wash and degreasing. The second picture is after paint and a lot of the assembly has been completed. There is 6 weeks between these two photographs.
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1967 Chevrolet Impala SS convertible - Ermine White C1
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post #21 of 183 (permalink) Old 10-30-2015, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogSS View Post
Here are a couple of pictures. The first one is after dis-assembly, power-wash and degreasing. The second picture is after paint and a lot of the assembly has been completed. There is 6 weeks between these two photographs.
WOW, very nice satin finish...

I'm not much of a black paint guy, but there are areas where I use it and I will be looking at the VHT now...

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
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post #22 of 183 (permalink) Old 11-05-2015, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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Update #1 Conclusion

Sorry for taking so long to get this posted up. I got the new rebuilt piece put on the following day after I did the last update.

I primered between both pieces and let the paint dry. I then put the rebuilt piece in place with re-drilled plug holes and marked where I needed to weld. I removed the primer underneath to get a clean weld and so, this is the final result. The whole radiator support will be blasted this weekend, provided the weather cooperates and then it'll be primered and painted this weekend, I hope.


Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

Last edited by jayhawk500; 11-05-2015 at 09:17 PM.
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post #23 of 183 (permalink) Old 11-05-2015, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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The S-I-L's 66 Caprice Update #2 Under Hood

This is what the under side of the hood looked like when I got it to the house. This car has been sitting in semi-salt air environment for many years in a leaky garage. Well, the garage has been rebuilt, and is now completely weather tight.



The S-I-L came over last weekend with hubby and started stripping and sanding the underside of the hood.



I must have gotten a bad batch of rust treatment. Everything I sprayed RUSTED. Never had this problem before with this product.




So yesterday while I took the day off, I started re-sanding the hood with a DA sander and by hand.



And the final result, after priming and painting.


Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro

Last edited by jayhawk500; 11-05-2015 at 09:02 PM.
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post #24 of 183 (permalink) Old 11-05-2015, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost in the 60's View Post
I was kinda thinking the same thing as BigDog.....now would be the time to replace the control arm bushings. Be even easier with the fenders off.
Sorry, I didn't see your comment earlier.
All of the bushings for the steering were replaced last summer.

Chris
Warrenton, OR
'68 CJ-5 - Sold
'74 Nova
'10 Camaro
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post #25 of 183 (permalink) Old 11-05-2015, 10:12 PM
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Hood looks very nice. Is that the VHT paint ??
It must not have been rusty enough for the Permatex to work.

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
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