1962 Coupe 327 ressurection - Pawpaw's ride - Page 5 - Impala Tech
Restoration Corner Aimed at Originality

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post #101 of 104 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 05:44 PM
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Only reason a roller rocker fails is due to lack of lubrication.

This is why they where not recommended for the street use by cam manufactures back in the seventies and eighties before the factory replaced all flat tappet cams with hydraulic roller cams. Rollers (rockers and cam lifters) depend upon splash lubrication for longevity, which isn't very dependable at low RPMs.

In the case of roller rockers the factory oiling is through the push rod, without any direct lubrication of the roller bearings in the trunion because the shafts are solid steel.

Ed Iskederian solved the roller tappet oiling issue when he machined a slot that forces oil from the top end down through the roller bearings in the tappet. That approach won't work on a roller lifter as there is no pressurized oil supply available. Because of this racers are obligated to inspect valve train parts regularly (I do it with every oil change). I also run a solid roller cam so it is an opportunity to relash the rocker arms at that time.

Big Dave
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post #102 of 104 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 09:37 PM
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I talked with Ciadella a year ago but wasn't ready to do the interior.

Last Saturday, a guy was asking about buying my '62 Impala SS. The engine spun a bearing last summer and it is just sitting. I gave him a price and he's "thinking" about it. Yesterday, I came across a 409 at a price I couldn't pass up, so now if he doesn't buy it, I have a new engine for it..

'62 Impala SS 409 TH350
'66 Chevelle SS 496 M20
'70 Chevelle SS 396 M20
'67 Camaro ss/rs 350 PG
'38 Chev coupe street rod
'54 Chev 210 2 door
'69 Chev C10
'89 Chev R3500 roll back
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post #103 of 104 (permalink) Old 10-03-2019, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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Wow, Life has been busy the last 2 years with having 4 kids and work. It appears I lost almost all the pics that were on this thread. Thanks Photobucket!

A little update on the car... We still haven't gotten around to the interior, but will be happening soon. It is still in the 90's here in Georgia and summer is still hanging on in October.

I installed a CPP disk brake conversion on it last week with new booster and new master cylinder. We then realized that the stock 14" drum wheels weren't going to work, so you know what that means! Time for some near shoes!! Here is a little sneak peak on what we decided on----18" Torque thrust II.

Now I've also decided that the car needs to be lowered in the front. It looks good without lowering, but I think it will look even better dropped 2" in the front. It has the original front springs in now, but I also have a brand new replacement springs in the box. Would it be a bad idea to cut the original spirngs to lower it or just go ahead and do drop spindles? If I screw up the original springs its no big deal because I have replacements.
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1962 Impala Sport Coupe 327
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post #104 of 104 (permalink) Old 10-03-2019, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wjackson11x View Post
Now I've also decided that the car needs to be lowered in the front. It looks good without lowering, but I think it will look even better dropped 2" in the front. It has the original front springs in now, but I also have a brand new replacement springs in the box. Would it be a bad idea to cut the original spirngs to lower it or just go ahead and do drop spindles? If I screw up the original springs its no big deal because I have replacements.
Keep in mind you are already sitting an inch and a half to two inches lower than the factory ride height (as posted in the Chassis Service manual) with the original factory springs.

If you want to have disc brakes then go for the two inch dropped spindles which have the lugs cast in and machined to bolt on mid eighties G-body brakes (aka Metric). This way you get the drop you want and disk brakes without bolt on adapters.

Approve of the five spoke 18" Torque Thrust wheels. Classic look with modern rubber.

Big Dave
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