66 impala SS 396 "325" - Impala Tech
Restoration Corner Aimed at Originality

 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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66 impala SS 396 "325"

Hey all,
figured id post all progress here:
First i did a test ride got stuck at first fill up battery not charging.
also pulls to the right really bad
answer:

new wheel cylinders and brakes
New alternator did the one wire thing stopd straight and charges Hoorray!
now for those exhaust leaks
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 08:18 PM
BA.
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that one wire alternator update is one of the best updates IMO!

sounds like you're going through the 'teething' process with the car now. that can be challenging!

HOW A NOVICE REBUILDS A 66 IMPALA CONVERTIBLE:
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 02:48 PM
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Looks like you're making good progress, sounds like the same issues I had when I got my Impala 10 years ago. I don't know what your electrical demands are, but assuming you added a higher output alternator with internal regulator you might watch to consider tagging on a piece of 8-10 Guage wire to the battery from the alternator. Will help take the load off of that 14 Guage or whatever GM used back then.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Sry for the late reply i didnt relize if this forum was this active im happy it is, been out of the Impala seen for awhile.
Good advice i noticed when i did the new alternator there was a wire already fried about two feet long ,I had to fix it all up.
It was the the orig alt wire "the main hot" where do i add the 12 gauge wire? I just run it straight to the battery?, this is my first one wire beleave it or not .
Because i never beleaved in them but they work great!

Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryForest View Post
Looks like you're making good progress, sounds like the same issues I had when I got my Impala 10 years ago. I don't know what your electrical demands are, but assuming you added a higher output alternator with internal regulator you might watch to consider tagging on a piece of 8-10 Guage wire to the battery from the alternator. Will help take the load off of that 14 Guage or whatever GM used back then.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys!
Yeah the body is in great shape!
Been busy with a few things sry about late reply.
Had to tend to a bad wheel cyl and front brakes, Ehaust leak had one side air pump line still on car .
i plugged it like the pass side and had to do donut gasket and heat riser gasket on stock manifold.
Then sombody had carb gasket upside down because it was leaking there too!
all fixed now.
Just put New white walls on it for now. looking for a set of old school cragars maybe.
anybody have a console mine is cracked!
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 03:23 PM
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Looks great!
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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thanks, got new reverse lights installed .
When i bought it they were missing
video:

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Looks great!
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 12:54 PM
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You can run the wire from the alternator to the battery, some people run it to the hot side of the starter but it doesn't really matter. A good idea is to run a fuse or breaker at 25% more than the alternator is rated for ( 100 amp alternator = 125 amp breaker). If you are replacing the orginal wire instead of just adding a jumper to the existing system, you are going to need a heavier gauge. Depending on your electrical demands 6 Guage will easily handle a 100 amp alternator.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-29-2017, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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sold this car was so disapointed with all the issues
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-29-2017, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impalajohn View Post
sold this car was so disapointed with all the issues

That was a short love affair. These old cars are in need of a lot of TLC. Younger owners are often disappointed in their ride and handling characteristics, but they were engineered to fulfill a different need than a BMW or Cadillac utility vehicle.

Your pulling unless you actually have brake fluid on the inside of the brake drum is generally caused by worn out front end components. But if it pulls you have to address the safety issue no matter what is the root cause.

When this car was new the national speed limit was only 45 mph and plastics as you know them where limited to only five families of resin (Five years earlier and plastic had only two applications). Seat belts were not required and oil was still being dumped on the road by most cars on the road which made driving interesting after the first spring rain storm. No anti skid brakes (brake auto adjusters where eleven years old; prior to that you did it by hand in your drive way). Carburetors ruled, but aside from idle air bleed and idle speed there were no user accessible adjustments (replaceable air bleeds and emulsion tubes, multiple main jet selection where not even offered except on high end Holley carbs.

You can make them safe, and even more fun to drive by changing power train and suspension component (not cheap), but they are still gong to drive like a land yacht because they are large and heavy cars.

Big Dave
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-31-2017, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Dave, Yes i did the wheels cyliders and brakes immediately actually stopped very well when i was done.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
That was a short love affair. These old cars are in need of a lot of TLC. Younger owners are often disappointed in their ride and handling characteristics, but they were engineered to fulfill a different need than a BMW or Cadillac utility vehicle.

Your pulling unless you actually have brake fluid on the inside of the brake drum is generally caused by worn out front end components. But if it pulls you have to address the safety issue no matter what is the root cause.

When this car was new the national speed limit was only 45 mph and plastics as you know them where limited to only five families of resin (Five years earlier and plastic had only two applications). Seat belts were not required and oil was still being dumped on the road by most cars on the road which made driving interesting after the first spring rain storm. No anti skid brakes (brake auto adjusters where eleven years old; prior to that you did it by hand in your drive way). Carburetors ruled, but aside from idle air bleed and idle speed there were no user accessible adjustments (replaceable air bleeds and emulsion tubes, multiple main jet selection where not even offered except on high end Holley carbs.

You can make them safe, and even more fun to drive by changing power train and suspension component (not cheap), but they are still gong to drive like a land yacht because they are large and heavy cars.

Big Dave
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2018, 02:01 AM
 
 
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Thanks for sharing the information .. .
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