LOL ... so what's your preference, Big Dave!
Perfected? IDK about that. My experience with the Quadra Jet is that it requires a lot of maintenance to keep it properly tuned/running correctly. I'm out on that.
My first thought was a big Holley even when I was looking to keep my 283. Thanks for the info ... so I'll need the return line.
Just curious, though, for a big CFM carb, wouldn't it have the same problem when not "wide open" as the EFI? need to return unused flow? thanks.
I run an 1150 cfm Holley Dominator on a high rise dual plane manifold and it is fed by an Aeromotive electric fuel pump that puts out 90 psi (great for EFI) at a rated 105 gallons per hour at 70 psi. That is a lot more gas than my motor requires when cruising on the street; but it meets my engine's needs at WOT while racing.
I bought the Areomotive despite how expensive it is along with a Barry Grant four port pressure regulator (one in, two out to carb, one return line) to replace two Holley Black pumps to feed the motor. Despite their advertising they couldn't keep up at WOT. This is because of the small print. Holley tells you their pump flows 140 gallons per hour but only with an open line and no head pressure (level flow from tank to pump out let). It was rated at 14 PSI maximum which is twice the maximum pressure that a carb can use. Both the Black and the Blue pump requires a non-return (deadhead) pressure regulator (not included with the pump).
What Holley doesn't tell you is that when you try and feed a carb as big as mine at WOT that their pump can not keep up. Nor do they tell you that while cruising the fuel recalculates in their pump (rather than be returned to the tank) so that it heats the gas up above the boiling point at which time you are in vapor lock; and all you get at the carb inlet is splashes of fuel at zero psi and a lot of gas fumes.
So much for external (outside of the tank) fuel pumps. As to a carburetor it works, It isn't as sensitive to manifold pressure variations as the EFI TBI is (though if you use a cam that never closes the intake valve you will get reversion which is why a big cam has that big cam sound). You can not have a carb that is too big for an engine dyno. If you are running at WOT such as in a race then bigger is better. If you want to drive it on the street then you will need a smaller carb if you want any throttle response (no surging or hesitation).
EFI has a better start up procedure because the computer gives the car extra fuel and retards the ignition timing to allow the motor to spin over faster for a quick start up. The same computer monitors your air fuel ratio, as the motor warms up (How does it know how warm it is, It has a temperature sensor in the coolant and the air cleaner to measure air temp and coolant temp). These sensors are inexpensive (about $20 to buy as service replacements), but if you break out the kit price for the EFI conversion they are closer to $200. Most kits use the Chrysler computer and sensors for some reason and everyone I have heard about on the four boards I work as a moderator usual trash it and buy an even more expensive Holley or other aftermarket controller to get features not included on the Chrysler system.
A carburetor relies upon a bimetal strip to do everything EFI needs a computer and sensors and programming to accomplish the same thing.
EFI was introduced to meet emission requirements not because a carb wouldn't work but because a computer can be programmed to pass an emission test (think VW was the only one doing that?). The customer was buying the parts along with their new car so the manufacture was happy to be able to pass a test that you should never see.