FRAME CLIPS for BRAKE LINE AND FUEL LINE - Impala Tech
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-27-2019, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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FRAME CLIPS for BRAKE LINE AND FUEL LINE

Has anyone installed Factory type Frame clips for your fuel and brake lines. This is on a 66 impala frame.

I just got my frame back from the powder-coater and I'm installing new brake an fuel lines and replacing the factory style clips.

Is there a special trick to install the clips?

I used a nail set and a flat 1/4' punch but it doesn't drive them in all that well.








Ted

Last edited by brickwhite; 12-29-2019 at 01:01 AM.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-29-2019, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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further through the process...

I ended up using the 1/4" and 5/16" pin punch from the local hardware store.



I'm wondering if I should add a 5/16" return line just in case I ever go EFI.






Ted
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-29-2019, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brickwhite View Post
further through the process...

I ended up using the 1/4" and 5/16" pin punch from the local hardware store.



I'm wondering if I should add a 5/16" return line just in case I ever go EFI.





If you want to have a provision in place for an EFI return, go ahead and plan for 3/8" I.D. return hose. 5/16" is the bare minimum. 3/8" will allow you some backpressure margin when you route the hose over the rear axle and then to the tank all while avoiding the exhaust. Trust me on this.

1968 Impala SS
496 Stroker
T56 Conversion
3.73 Posi-Trac
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry forgot about where I purchased the lines.

I ordered both the fuel and brake lines in Steel from inline tube. You can see the the clip part numbers in the pics above.

Fuel line fits very well. Still working on brake lines.

Clips - Not cheap... ($35fuel + $22brake)
https://www.inlinetube.com/products/cif306

https://www.inlinetube.com/products/cib203

Fuel line - $65 (they had a Christmas sale + 30%off)
https://www.inlinetube.com/products/cff6502

Brake lines - $125
https://www.inlinetube.com/products/cfb6509

Check out their online catalog it's pretty cool. They sell more than just tubing. Lots of restoration stuff.

http://online.flipbuilder.com/wmmk/bhbt/

Ted
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
If you want to have a provision in place for an EFI return, go ahead and plan for 3/8" I.D. return hose. 5/16" is the bare minimum. 3/8" will allow you some backpressure margin when you route the hose over the rear axle and then to the tank all while avoiding the exhaust. Trust me on this.
You can support 750 horse power with a half inch feed line (AN8) and a three eighth inch return line (AN6).

Big Dave
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-30-2019, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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I don't think I'll be upping the car to 750hp anytime soon. She was at 450hp at the crank on the engine dyno.

Ted
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-13-2020, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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As for the Brake lines.. They fit OK. I think I'll have to adjust the front setup.

The right front brake line fits the frame well but at the master is where they are not consistent.


The left side is another story.


The rear line at the back of the frame is great but back at the Master... ???? %#%#%????



The distribution block on the frame circled in Red is not needed by inline tubes theory. The brake lines they sell are not setup for this.

The lines they sell are setup for the disk conversion kit they sell that uses a proportioning valve as seen in the picture.

The Green circled left side brake line provided by inline tube is too long to fit the prop valve or the distribution block. The Green arrow is where it is supposed to go. Even if you connect it to the soft line where they want it to go it is still way too long.

I'll need to create a new line to fit.

Ted
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-13-2020, 03:39 PM
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As I remember it the block on the frame is the residual valve for drum brakes. It is set for 15 pounds.

Front disc brakes use a residual valve as well (it was intended to be used anyway, but most aftermarket brake kits don't include it), but it is only set for 2 psi. That may be why inline tubes doesn't think you need it.

Big Dave
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-16-2020, 10:31 AM
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You don't need the residual valve as the most disc/drum M/C's have one inside the port for rear brakes. This is why all conversion kits do not have a residual valve included.

Disc brakes do not use residual valve, there will be one on drum brakes to reduce the reaction time for shoes to meet the drum. On disc brakes there is nothing to retract the piston and the pads are always in contact with the rotor. On drums, the shoes are self energizing which means the shoes are semi floating and when applied they wedge themselves into the drum to assist in braking. The shoes have heavy springs to pull them away when not engaged so they won't engage if slightly dragging. The residual check valve keeps some hydraulic pressure applied to keep the shoes slightly in contact but not engaged.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-16-2020, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Which DISK/DRUM Master Cylinder should I purchase then?

Most of the parts places I've talked to don't know what they are talking about and the details on online part retailers don't necessarily say.

How do I know which MC is for DISK/DRUM?

Some people say that if it has a large front and small rear Reservoir the its for disk/drum.

like this

WAGNER MC101254 {#19176488, F101254, J8126739} Info
1-1/8" Bore; Vacuum Boost



Or if you go to summit MCs for a late 60s Chevy should work....



What about Bore? Should I go 1" bore or 1 1/8"??

I just want to buy what's going to work the first time...with decent pedal feel. I still need to look at my booster and old MC to see how long the push rod is.

Ted
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-16-2020, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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This is what I ordered....



But this is what Came in via UPS...





I think it should work with disk/drum.... ????

Has the deep pocket like I need.

Seems my old MC was leaking anyway.






Ted
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-16-2020, 09:05 PM
 
 
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working on 65 Impala 396. Do I need oversize fuel lines from engine to tank? I think the Vetts of that year were larger for BB? Thanks....Fat Dave
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-16-2020, 10:06 PM
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working on 65 Impala 396. Do I need oversize fuel lines from engine to tank? I think the Vetts of that year were larger for BB? Thanks....Fat Dave
Engines factory rated in excess of 300 horsepower (the 300 horse 327 doesn't count because it is a 275 horse that got an inflated horsepower rating to compete with the 392 cube hemi under the hood of the Chrysler 300) had a three eighth inch (ID) fuel line. All other engines got a five sixteenth i.d. fuel line. Since all BBC engines exceeded 300 horse they all had a three eighth inch fuel line.

Big Dave
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-17-2020, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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3/8" is OK for your 396

Ted
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