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  Topic Review (Newest First)
02-28-2010 06:04 PM
dcairns
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64 Sport Sedan View Post
How can I figure out the correct angle if its a different transmission, transmission mount, and aftermarket cross member?

Read the articles here:

http://www.iedls.com/guide.html

Some good stuff there.



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02-28-2010 09:12 AM
Big Dave
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64 Sport Sedan View Post
Without these spacers I couldn't get my HEI distributor in and I could when I had the Powerglide. How can I figure out the correct angle if its a different transmission, transmission mount, and aftermarket cross member?
Aftermarket sells a small cap HEI distributors with an external coil that fits in place of the old points distributor (it is the same size).

If you would rather change the pinion angle you get an angle finder ($20 self leveling magnetic base protractor) and measure the angle formed by the output yoke. Go back to the pinion yoke and measure that angle. cut off all of the brackets and mounts on the rear axel and then reweld them back on so that the two angles are the same just oposite (one points down X degrees and the other points up X degrees) there must be an angle as they can not both be zero degrees (perfectly level) or the bearings in the universal joints will burn out for lack of rotation that moves the grease around in the cups.

Big Dave
02-28-2010 02:31 AM
64 Sport Sedan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
Guarantee that the pinion angle is now wrong (changed from the factory setting) and it will need to be corrected or the car will suffer from drive shaft harmonic vibrations from the fact that the two angles are not canceling out the standing waves the angle a shaft makes produces in the drive shaft.

Big Dave
Without these spacers I couldn't get my HEI distributor in and I could when I had the Powerglide. How can I figure out the correct angle if its a different transmission, transmission mount, and aftermarket cross member?
02-28-2010 02:26 AM
64 Sport Sedan
Quote:
Originally Posted by A5150 View Post
Erny,

Nice motor.

Do you have any problems with your alternator belt sqeeling when you mash the throttle?
I had that set-up on my small block with headers and the brackets would let the belt vibrate and sqeel. (hows come I cant spell that word ) lol

Brad
Thanks Brad,
I had to weld an additional 1 1/2" to that bracket to give me enough belt tension and to keep my alternator from rubbing on my slightly taller valve covers.
02-26-2010 08:27 PM
Big Dave
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcairns View Post
Oh, one other thought on your spacers on the transmission mount. It is possible that may have set the drive line angle off a bit too much. Try to notice if you get any strange vibrations, as that may be due to the slight imbalace of angles you created with the spacers. Hopefully it is small enough not to matter.
Guarantee that the pinion angle is now wrong (changed from the factory setting) and it will need to be corrected or the car will suffer from drive shaft harmonic vibrations from the fact that the two angles are not canceling out the standing waves the angle a shaft makes produces in the drive shaft.

Big Dave
02-26-2010 07:23 PM
dcairns That looks really nice. Black and chrome with some red accents



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02-26-2010 02:44 PM
A5150 Erny,

Nice motor.

Do you have any problems with your alternator belt sqeeling when you mash the throttle?
I had that set-up on my small block with headers and the brackets would let the belt vibrate and sqeel. (hows come I cant spell that word ) lol

Brad
02-26-2010 03:22 AM
64 Sport Sedan
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64 Sport Sedan View Post
I'll check for vibrations once I start driving it around. I just finished detailing the engine compartment and re-polishing the aluminum, won't be driving it during the rain. I found the proper throttle stud at the auto parts store by Holly $ 7.99. Thanks for the picture, helped a lot. Looks like I'm done with the engine and drive line, now onto the interior. Going to start by painting the door jams and then headliner, door panels, floor boards, carpet, stereo, and seats. I already have all the materials and time, just need better weather.




02-24-2010 12:37 AM
64 Sport Sedan I'll check for vibrations once I start driving it around. I just finished detailing the engine compartment and re-polishing the aluminum, won't be driving it during the rain. I found the proper throttle stud at the auto parts store by Holly $ 7.99. Thanks for the picture, helped a lot. Looks like I'm done with the engine and drive line, now onto the interior. Going to start by painting the door jams and then headliner, door panels, floor boards, carpet, stereo, and seats. I already have all the materials and time, just need better weather.
02-19-2010 09:10 PM
dcairns Oh, one other thought on your spacers on the transmission mount. It is possible that may have set the drive line angle off a bit too much. Try to notice if you get any strange vibrations, as that may be due to the slight imbalace of angles you created with the spacers. Hopefully it is small enough not to matter.



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02-19-2010 09:07 PM
dcairns Since you got me thinking about it, I worked on my setup for the new carb. Easier to work on while it is all off the car.

I was aiming for minimal modification to the carb linkage, so I only had to drill a small hole, and grind one side of a linkage to clear the stud.



Just a bit of hobby shop aluminum sheet and drill and Dremel work.




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02-19-2010 08:55 PM
64 Sport Sedan I found a TV cable bracket like yours but it sits too far back on my intake manifold my TV cable doesn't reach the carb. I followed the instructions on that link you sent me and she's shifting and kicking down beautifully! You're right about the TV cable stud, mine sits on it too loosely, thanks for the picture it'll make it a lot easier when hunting at the yard.
02-19-2010 06:40 PM
dcairns Looks like you might need to work with the geometry of your cable setup. I assume the pictures are with the throttle at idle position. That means you get lots of cable pull right off the bat, but less towards full throttle. I have the same issue to work out as my “handy hole” is almost straight below the throttle shaft.




Also, did you check to see that you are getting full travel from the cable? With it disconnected from the carb (engine off), give it a strong pull, mark the cable where it comes out of the housing, with a grease pencil. Mount it up and check that it gets to the mark with the throttle wide open


You should get a proper stud for the clip of the TV cable. In the long run, I think your current setup will break the green plastic clip, and you won’t know about it and possibly ruin the transmission.

This is what it looks like:



Looks like you found a TV bracket for a car with cruise control. I wish I could tell you where mine came from, but that was 25 years ago. But keep your eye open in the junk yard, it is smaller and a bit cleaner looking. Has a part number on it of “3973000”. It was there from my Powerglide to TH350 swap, so it may be from a TH350 car.





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02-19-2010 05:12 PM
64 Sport Sedan Thanks for the resources! I hooked everything up with my bracket (see pix below) but it's not kicking down to lower gears when I accelerate. I'm going to have to read up on those websites and probably set it up with a bit more tension.

I checked out my E-Brake pivot in the rear (see pix below) and I don't have any rubbing issues since I put some spacers on my transmission mount to give me more clearance in the engine compartment between the block and fire wall to re-install my HEI Distributor. This also raised my drive shaft enough to clear the pivot bracket. BTW I found one of those brake pedal switches at the yard and its working great. Thanks again for all the help.

TV Cable Bracket:


Transmission Mount & Spacers:


E-Brake Pivot Bracket:
02-19-2010 01:55 PM
dcairns Read these websites, they expain the TV adjustment rather well.

http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Inst...ble_adjust.htm

http://www.tvmadeez.com/

I have seen some others that say to set it up for a non-linear pull of the cable, but my transmission guy said to start with a linear pull. By having the mid point be perpendicular to the cable, you get the most linear movment. If you were to move that mid point forward or backward, and retension the cable, you can affect the amount of pull vs throttle setting. With themid point closer to the closed throttle position gives less pull at lower throttle positions more at the full throttle end. Likewise setting the midpoint closer to the full throttle end gives more pull on the low throttle end and less pull on the full throttle end. Doing it wrong could be bad for the transmission.



By the way, you will need a stud that mounts to the carb linkage for the TV cable to clip onto. Not sure where to get those, although I did see there are "corrector" kits out there. But $35 seems a lot for some bolts and a bit of metal Maybe a local tranmission shop would have the stud by itself for a few buck.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-376710/

Also, you may want to look into the TV spring. Since my transmission was built for me, I didn't look into this much, but it may apply to you:


http://www.tvmadeez.com/spring_install/700r4.php



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02-19-2010 12:30 PM
64 Sport Sedan
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbradley View Post
In reading the post, I don't see any reference to the throttle valve cable or adjustment. You need to be SURE you have the correct geometry on the carb linkage and the cable set properly or you'll burn out your new transmission in less than 10 miles. There are tons of articles on the net about setting this and multiple vendors for the linkage adapter. The proper travel is set with the engine OFF so if its not running yet, that's OK. Just DO NOT try to change shift points by 'adjusting' this cable, that's NOT what its for.
I picked up a couple of different TV cable brackets at the yard and ended up modifying one of them to clear my valve covers and bolt on to my Edlebrock manifold. From what I understand I have to place it so there is mild tension on the cable with the car off and the adjuster fully collapsed. Then I just floor the gas pedal and the TV cable adjusts itself to the right length. Is this accurate or pretty far from what needs to happen?
02-19-2010 11:50 AM
dbradley In reading the post, I don't see any reference to the throttle valve cable or adjustment. You need to be SURE you have the correct geometry on the carb linkage and the cable set properly or you'll burn out your new transmission in less than 10 miles. There are tons of articles on the net about setting this and multiple vendors for the linkage adapter. The proper travel is set with the engine OFF so if its not running yet, that's OK. Just DO NOT try to change shift points by 'adjusting' this cable, that's NOT what its for.
02-19-2010 10:03 AM
dcairns I don't recall, I didn't get to test it much before the carburetor started acting up. I am not too concerned about it, I never have needed to do that on my 2003 truck, so I doubt I will ever need it on my Impala. In fact I doubt I will ever need to use the downshift on the Impala, unless I take a trip to the mountains.



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02-19-2010 03:07 AM
64 Sport Sedan
Quote:
Originally Posted by 64 Sport Sedan View Post
I'll take a look and post some pix tomorrow. That might be what causing the buzz I'm hearing inside now.
Spent most of the day at the junk yard didn't get a chance to put the car on the lift to check out the E-Brake pivot. I'll be putting it up tomorrow to install some of my junk yard finds like a Tranny Torque Cover and Kick Down Cable bracket.

In your 700r4 conversion does your column allow you to shift all the way down to 1st or does it stop at 2nd?
02-18-2010 09:58 AM
dcairns This is the sort of switch I used. Mounts in place of the existing brake switch. Wires from the brake light move right over with no modification. I used some heat shrink on the crimp on connectors for my lockup connections, since the connectors I had were not insulated.
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort




http://www.smokemup.com/tech/700r4.php




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02-18-2010 03:09 AM
64 Sport Sedan
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcairns View Post
I was actually referring to the brake pivot near the u-joint. On my swap, I had to flatten out the pivot bracket.

Before:




After



Now the parking brake cables rub on the frame holes, but I don't use it a lot. I may adjust the shape of the hook to get it centered again.

I'll take a look and post some pix tomorrow. That might be what causing the buzz I'm hearing inside now.
02-18-2010 03:08 AM
64 Sport Sedan I think I found an inexpensive solution for my wiring problem. I'm going to try using a standard 5 prong relay that will cut power to the (A) pin on the transmission when the stock brake switch gives the relay power when the bake is pressed. We'll see if this works.
02-18-2010 12:16 AM
dcairns I was actually referring to the brake pivot near the u-joint. On my swap, I had to flatten out the pivot bracket.

Before:




After



Now the parking brake cables rub on the frame holes, but I don't use it a lot. I may adjust the shape of the hook to get it centered again.



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02-18-2010 12:12 AM
dcairns Ignition power. No point in giving it power when the engine is not even running. I don't think it would be doing anything with a constant 12v, but just made more sense to only give it power when the engine would (in theory) be running. I took power from the fuse block and my transmission shop gave me a replacement brake light switch that had the regular switch (normally open, closes when brake is applied) and a second switch (normally closed, open when brake applied). The terminology is kind of backward from the switch labeling, since the brake pedal is "normally" pushing the switch, which makes you think of “normal” state in reverse. But all it has to do is break the circuit when the brakes are applied, which forces the transmission out of lockup.



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02-17-2010 11:41 PM
64 Sport Sedan
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcairns View Post
Your pictures are not showing for me, but I pasted the url into another browser window and was able to see them. Looks like you have a great lift for the car to make it easy to work on. Looks like that shift bracket should work well.

How is the clearance to the parking brake piviot looking?
I just adjusted the picture url's should work now. Here is one that shows the parking brake pivot a little better.

Did you have to connect your single wire to the brake pedal or just constant ignition power?

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