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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 12:01 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR Dave, no issues now but I'm thinking about eventual starter changes /service. It seems crazy that for a manual transmission you would have to basically pull the engine for a starter change, which would take an hour at most on an automatic.
I'm thinking about maybe grinding the 4 small welds of the spherical piece and tacking it back on when the time comes....
Today 11:47 AM
Big Dave Agree it is a solid steel box, with no access. So are you having issues with it grinding? If it ain't broke and all of that.

If you are; then the only way to shim the starter is to pull the tranny and bell housing (leave block plate with a bolt or two to keep it off the rear main seal). You then shim ithe starter according the amount of gap you have between the teeth (I use a medium paper clip as a gage).

Big Dave
Yesterday 07:52 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR Can any of you 4-speed guys tell me how - in the future - when I need to verify correct teeth engagement between the starter and flywheel I'm supposed to do that when there is no access to this area with the starter mounted to the block? See attached and note the spherical piece welded on to the QT bellhousing. I looked at some of the older 4-speed Lakewood bellhousings and they were the same. I called the Holley tech line and the answer was "... Uh, good question..."

I cannot be the first person to ever wonder about this... Thanks for any replies.
Yesterday 10:39 AM
68WASAGOODYEAR Thanks Dave. I have ordered new brackets from Tuff Stuff and a new pulley and will report back on if this solves the issue.

Now for some good news. The T56 mounts up to the factory crossmember with no modifications whatsoever. I'm super-pumped about this; I was planning on having to cut and reweld the mounts to the frame. See attached pic.
06-16-2019 10:34 PM
Big Dave Mis-matched pulleys. SBC water pump bolts onto a BBC water pump, but the belts will not align. Had a similar problem and I bought a custom billet March aluminum P/S pump pulley to fix the problem. Painted black it will "pass" for a stock part.

I grew so tired of fighting these battles that I would buy a full set of March or Zoops pulleys and brackets to fit a long water pump. After a while I realized there was no need to even retain a V-belt so I went to five to seven rib serpentine pullet sets. Never ran a V-belt since then.

Big Dave
06-16-2019 03:35 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR What is "acceptable" in terms of belt alignment? The attached pic isn't very good in terms of showing it, but the power steering pulley and accessory pulley aren't even close to being coplanar....thanks for any replies.

ETA: better pic of the belt misalignment from the passenger side added.
06-14-2019 02:34 PM
Big Dave
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68WASAGOODYEAR View Post
Dave, did all 427 cars get the blister hood? Is that the difference in clearance? Thanks.
No only the special order 427 SS got a blister hood a 427 powered Impala SS had a flat hood. A true 427 SS blister hood costs more than most people's finished project cars due to the rarity of this unique part.

Big Dave
06-14-2019 02:21 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR Dave, did all 427 cars get the blister hood? Is that the difference in clearance? Thanks.
06-14-2019 02:04 PM
Big Dave The RPM Air gap is 0.37 inches taller than the original Winters High Rise four barrel intake. If you have a one inch drop base you have more than half an inch more room than a stock 427 install under the hood.

Big Dave
06-14-2019 01:40 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR Dave, its an edelbrock air gap intake, which is dual plane but not any kind of tunnel ram or anything. There *might* be 2.5" to the top surface of the fenders (hood is still off at this point) . Attached is a pic of the 3" K&N filter on the 1" drop base I have and just eyeballing it you can tell there is no way the hood will close. I'm honestly not sure how this happened. It's not a tall deck block or anything.

ETA: carb pad height on the edelbrock intake is 5.22". I'm not sure how this compares to the stock cast iron intake.
06-14-2019 01:29 PM
Big Dave
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68WASAGOODYEAR View Post
New pan is in. I now have half an inch clearance to the engine cradle and clearance to the centerlink is good as well. Problem fixed. Now on to somehow getting enough clearance between the engine and hood. This might be the real tricky part.
Shouldn't be. BBC was offered as an option so there was room for it from the factory. Only thing that might be an issue is a taller intake manifold such as a tunnel ram. Look at the Edelebrock technical pages for dimensions of the stock manifolds since Edelbrock retained them for their dual plane four barrel intakes. If you are running a Dart or Victor single plane then it will be taller so you need a dropped base air cleaner to close your flat hood.

Big Dave
06-14-2019 12:14 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR New pan is in. I now have half an inch clearance to the engine cradle and clearance to the centerlink is good as well. Problem fixed. Now on to somehow getting enough clearance between the engine and hood. This might be the real tricky part.
06-09-2019 06:24 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR Pics of the new pan attached. Note the stamped part number below "Moroso". This pan is 1/2" shallower in the front and the dimension from the sump to the front of the pan is 15" vs.12", so this should have plenty of clearance to the cradle and centerlink. Will post more pics when I get it in.

ETA: link to the pan
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-20412/
06-09-2019 10:08 AM
Roc1616 I believe the Milodon #30970 is for a gen 4 454 and the #30975 is for the gen 6. That’s what I got for my 67 gen 6 454. I’m still having sump length shortened 1inch. Won’t be ready to put in for few weeks but will update when I do.
06-06-2019 09:17 AM
justjohn
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68WASAGOODYEAR View Post
Does it have enough clearance to the engine cradle? That's my biggest issue. I will be able to tell if the new Moroso pan is going to work by taking a few simple measurements. Nice to have a back-up to pan the back-up pan. Thanks.
I'm going to retract what I said above. I checked my Summit order history to make sure I'm giving you correct information. I installed this oil pan with zero fit or clearance issues on my 69:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-30970

Still have a generous air gap at the center link at full lock and similar to OE clearance in the cradle.
06-05-2019 10:08 AM
68WASAGOODYEAR Does it have enough clearance to the engine cradle? That's my biggest issue. I will be able to tell if the new Moroso pan is going to work by taking a few simple measurements. Nice to have a back-up to pan the back-up pan. Thanks.
06-05-2019 08:28 AM
justjohn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roc1616 View Post
Here is the pan I was told will fit gen 6 454 and the 67-69 Impala.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-30975
I installed a Milodon 30970 on my 69. Fit is perfect.
06-04-2019 06:29 PM
Roc1616 Here is the pan I was told will fit gen 6 454 and the 67-69 Impala.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-30975
06-03-2019 06:30 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR Here is the Summit link:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SNH-BB10-SEC

SNH-BB10-SEC is the part number. They are shorty block hugger headers, so ground clearance is not an issue. Full - length headers were not an option as they would not work with the Dart heads since they have raised exhaust ports.
06-03-2019 09:27 AM
justjohn What part number headers from Sanderson are you using?

Also, how is the ground clearance?
06-01-2019 04:42 PM
Roc1616 Yes please update what oil pan ends up working for you. Thanks
05-31-2019 11:54 AM
68WASAGOODYEAR Update: Tristar is shipping me a new Moroso oil pan that should solve my clearance issues. Will update with pics when I have it.
05-28-2019 03:25 PM
Big Dave I take black Iron steam pipe and cut it to length the get stand offs iff I need to space something.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southland-P...ipe/1000227949

Big Dave
05-28-2019 01:21 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR Does anyone have any ideas about how to increase clearance between the oil pan and engine cradle? I thought about putting some grade 8 washers in between the frame stands and cradle. Not much, but better than what it is.

Also the pan clearance to the centerlink? I thought about either trying to dent the pan to create clearance or affix some kind of rubber bumper to the pan to stop centerlink travel. It's not a major interference - I think the steering is right at the extent of its travel, but would like a little clearance for insurance.

Thanks for any replies.

ETA pic of very little clearance between pan and cradle.
05-27-2019 09:56 AM
68WASAGOODYEAR Sanderson block - hugger ceramic coated headers installed. I highly recommend these - they have clearance to the steering gear and A-arms almost like they were custom made for my car. The driver side was a little tricky - I covered the tubes with masking tape to prevent scratches.
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