|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-01-2019 09:11 AM|
|06-30-2019 10:00 PM|
I was at the local motor parts place on the weekend and they had this there to my surprise.
So I'm going to use it on all the moving parts and hope it will do the job.
The worst part of all this is the further I look I'm finding more things to add to the to do list, before you know it I'll have the whole car apart........... Some one stop me.
|06-21-2019 10:03 AM|
I've since replaced it with a Vintage Air system so the controls are long gone now.
|06-21-2019 03:10 AM|
Yes thanks justjohn,
This first link is the same as mine and as a last resort if I can't resurrect mine I'll get in contact with them.........
If I can find out what kind of grease/lubricant is used on the lever shaft I can put mine back together and refit it to the car all going well.
|06-20-2019 10:25 AM|
|06-20-2019 06:06 AM|
Another Question ?
Does any one know what lubricant is used on the heater control unit levers?
|05-06-2019 11:09 AM|
This statement was that they would limit the number of parts in inventory. Every car of every make and model had to use parts that were in stock. No new parts without board approval so that every car uses the same part (you just pay more for a Cadillac part that also fits a Chevy). This was put in effect to limit corporate income tax paid based upon parts in inventory.
The result is every part is interchangeable across all lines, makes, and models; if it could be made to physically fit the application. So yes I would expect the Chevelle part to fit the full size car. Were we have issues today is that in 1963 GM stopped making every part in house and started to buy from outside vendors based upon specifications (the Chevelle first appeared in production year 1964 but was designed in 1962).
|05-05-2019 07:11 PM|
I originally had no plans of ever getting this far with it and I wouldn't reccommend any body doing this as most of it is pot metal and very easily broken and if you look at most of the reconditioned ones for sale they have alot of the little tabs broken that hold it together. Managed to get mine apart with out breaking any.........
As for your sugestion to add alittle to the white shaft of the switch is a good idea in theory but when I got tbe switch out I was supprised at the amount of tension the spring inside has and it places more emphasis on the need for the plastic slide to be able to hold the lever closed at that end of the control.
Maybe the idea I had to remote mount the switch and have it work with a seperate lever mounted under the dash might work, not original I know but I don't have 998 point car either.........
I have been scouring the web for replacement slides and didn't realise that the slides aren't available from all the major parts suppliers (Classic Ind, Ecklers etc) but did find on Bob's Impalas they have replacements for a Chevelle 64-69 years and they look exactly the same (see link) so are looking at getting a set to see if they will do the job and at $20 bucks US its a small price to loose of they don't work.
Other than that its back to the drawing board.
|05-05-2019 01:02 PM|
In all seriousness, you have probably learned more about the inner workings of that thing than a lot of us ever will!
One other option along the idea you mentioned of adding something to the lever shaft to give the white plastic piece a lil' extra push,....maybe a drop of 2-part epoxy on the top of the white plastic thing itself.
|05-04-2019 10:09 PM|
Ok, I've been looking at this for a while now and I think I may have found out what I think is causing the issue.
I took the heater control out of the car yesterday and brought it home and sat down and studied it.
I found out that at each end of the slide that the lever goes across and back on, have small nodules that lock the levers in place (see picture 1).
What I also found out is that the levers have plastic guides that allow the levers to slide evenly along the control (picture 2).
Now, I think through a lot of use (being a California car) the plastic slide and the little nodules have worn sufficiently to not allow the lever to lock into place and turn the switch off (switch picture 1 in previous reply).
What do I plan to do about it, hmmmmmm, not sure.
I did think I could remove the switch all together and remote mount it?
Pull the whole unit apart and swap the plastic slides around until I found one that worked and possibly risk breaking one doing it (age, 50 years).
Buy a whole new unit, anyone have a NOS one for sale?
|05-02-2019 01:13 AM|
Hello and thanks guys for your help,
I have had another look at the controls and I was poking around to see what was going on and found that if I was to push back on the switch (see first picture) at the white shaft it would shut off the motor.
So it appears that for some reason the lever isn't retreating enough to shut the motor off (see second picture).
Why its doing this I'm not sure as it doesn't look to have had any work done and I know I haven't touched it since owning it.
I'm now going to see if I can place something in between the lever and switch over that white shaft and find out if that might work?
|05-01-2019 07:31 PM|
|68WASAGOODYEAR||Yeah it sounds electrical. I think you can easily access the resistor if you take the glove box liner out. Look for the three pin connector on top of the duct and remove the two trim screws securing the flange to the duct.|
|05-01-2019 04:55 PM|
I had a similar issue in my '66 but I never got to really look deep into it yet. My suspicion is that it isn't in those hard lever physical controls at all. Again, just a gut feeling.
There is a little, tiny circuit of sorts that sits on top of the big black heater core box. Mine was toasted, and I think shorting out, causing the fan to always run.
I've since replaced my leaking heater core and am mostly buttoned back up but I haven't plugged things in yet for a final check.
It was something like this but maybe not *exactly*.
|05-01-2019 01:49 AM|
I've been at it again with the 67.
This time the heater controls........
It seems the top lever which operates the motor does not switch off completely and as soon as I turn the key on it starts and doesn't stop until I turn the key off again.
If it has been doing it since I've owned it I haven't noticed and no I haven't touched anything on the controls yet.
It is only a matter of adjustment I know but where do I adjust?
See attached pictures and give me some idea of what I need to do please as I've steered at it for along time this morning and well, nothing and even the book doesn't help.
Any help would be great, thanks.