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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-14-2019 02:34 PM
Big Dave
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68WASAGOODYEAR View Post
Dave, did all 427 cars get the blister hood? Is that the difference in clearance? Thanks.
No only the special order 427 SS got a blister hood a 427 powered Impala SS had a flat hood. A true 427 SS blister hood costs more than most people's finished project cars due to the rarity of this unique part.

Big Dave
06-14-2019 02:21 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR Dave, did all 427 cars get the blister hood? Is that the difference in clearance? Thanks.
06-14-2019 02:04 PM
Big Dave The RPM Air gap is 0.37 inches taller than the original Winters High Rise four barrel intake. If you have a one inch drop base you have more than half an inch more room than a stock 427 install under the hood.

Big Dave
06-14-2019 01:40 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR Dave, its an edelbrock air gap intake, which is dual plane but not any kind of tunnel ram or anything. There *might* be 2.5" to the top surface of the fenders (hood is still off at this point) . Attached is a pic of the 3" K&N filter on the 1" drop base I have and just eyeballing it you can tell there is no way the hood will close. I'm honestly not sure how this happened. It's not a tall deck block or anything.

ETA: carb pad height on the edelbrock intake is 5.22". I'm not sure how this compares to the stock cast iron intake.
06-14-2019 01:29 PM
Big Dave
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68WASAGOODYEAR View Post
New pan is in. I now have half an inch clearance to the engine cradle and clearance to the centerlink is good as well. Problem fixed. Now on to somehow getting enough clearance between the engine and hood. This might be the real tricky part.
Shouldn't be. BBC was offered as an option so there was room for it from the factory. Only thing that might be an issue is a taller intake manifold such as a tunnel ram. Look at the Edelebrock technical pages for dimensions of the stock manifolds since Edelbrock retained them for their dual plane four barrel intakes. If you are running a Dart or Victor single plane then it will be taller so you need a dropped base air cleaner to close your flat hood.

Big Dave
06-14-2019 12:14 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR New pan is in. I now have half an inch clearance to the engine cradle and clearance to the centerlink is good as well. Problem fixed. Now on to somehow getting enough clearance between the engine and hood. This might be the real tricky part.
06-09-2019 06:24 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR Pics of the new pan attached. Note the stamped part number below "Moroso". This pan is 1/2" shallower in the front and the dimension from the sump to the front of the pan is 15" vs.12", so this should have plenty of clearance to the cradle and centerlink. Will post more pics when I get it in.

ETA: link to the pan
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-20412/
06-09-2019 10:08 AM
Roc1616 I believe the Milodon #30970 is for a gen 4 454 and the #30975 is for the gen 6. That’s what I got for my 67 gen 6 454. I’m still having sump length shortened 1inch. Won’t be ready to put in for few weeks but will update when I do.
06-06-2019 09:17 AM
justjohn
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68WASAGOODYEAR View Post
Does it have enough clearance to the engine cradle? That's my biggest issue. I will be able to tell if the new Moroso pan is going to work by taking a few simple measurements. Nice to have a back-up to pan the back-up pan. Thanks.
I'm going to retract what I said above. I checked my Summit order history to make sure I'm giving you correct information. I installed this oil pan with zero fit or clearance issues on my 69:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-30970

Still have a generous air gap at the center link at full lock and similar to OE clearance in the cradle.
06-05-2019 10:08 AM
68WASAGOODYEAR Does it have enough clearance to the engine cradle? That's my biggest issue. I will be able to tell if the new Moroso pan is going to work by taking a few simple measurements. Nice to have a back-up to pan the back-up pan. Thanks.
06-05-2019 08:28 AM
justjohn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roc1616 View Post
Here is the pan I was told will fit gen 6 454 and the 67-69 Impala.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-30975
I installed a Milodon 30970 on my 69. Fit is perfect.
06-04-2019 06:29 PM
Roc1616 Here is the pan I was told will fit gen 6 454 and the 67-69 Impala.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-30975
06-03-2019 06:30 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR Here is the Summit link:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SNH-BB10-SEC

SNH-BB10-SEC is the part number. They are shorty block hugger headers, so ground clearance is not an issue. Full - length headers were not an option as they would not work with the Dart heads since they have raised exhaust ports.
06-03-2019 09:27 AM
justjohn What part number headers from Sanderson are you using?

Also, how is the ground clearance?
06-01-2019 04:42 PM
Roc1616 Yes please update what oil pan ends up working for you. Thanks
05-31-2019 11:54 AM
68WASAGOODYEAR Update: Tristar is shipping me a new Moroso oil pan that should solve my clearance issues. Will update with pics when I have it.
05-28-2019 03:25 PM
Big Dave I take black Iron steam pipe and cut it to length the get stand offs iff I need to space something.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southland-P...ipe/1000227949

Big Dave
05-28-2019 01:21 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR Does anyone have any ideas about how to increase clearance between the oil pan and engine cradle? I thought about putting some grade 8 washers in between the frame stands and cradle. Not much, but better than what it is.

Also the pan clearance to the centerlink? I thought about either trying to dent the pan to create clearance or affix some kind of rubber bumper to the pan to stop centerlink travel. It's not a major interference - I think the steering is right at the extent of its travel, but would like a little clearance for insurance.

Thanks for any replies.

ETA pic of very little clearance between pan and cradle.
05-27-2019 09:56 AM
68WASAGOODYEAR Sanderson block - hugger ceramic coated headers installed. I highly recommend these - they have clearance to the steering gear and A-arms almost like they were custom made for my car. The driver side was a little tricky - I covered the tubes with masking tape to prevent scratches.
05-26-2019 07:15 PM
Big Dave With a Diesel engine you have to constrain them with motor mounts that interlock. Go to any parts store and ask for a Chevy motor mount and they will sell you one designed for a 1969-'72 307 glued together rubber mount (vulcanized) that will split as soon as any engine with more than 300 horsepower is cranked up. Up to you to catch the flying motor before it breaks something or it pulls the throttle rod to WOT (which is why this mount was recalled in 1968 as being a defective design). The counter man will tell you that this was the only motor mount ever made and it will fit your older car (I won't). Chevy also had a HD motor mounts used on any engine that was rated above 300 horsepower. It also interlocks but requires a different frame mount to lower the motor mount. Because of this your parts man won't make a sale for the correct motor mount so he sells you the wrong mount.

Big Dave
05-26-2019 05:38 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR She's in, finally. Not without a fight though. I had to remove the entire front fascia - grill, bumper, etc. to get the engine far back enough to mount it to the frame. I had to also remove the centerlink to get the pan to clear. There are some very tight clearances now between the pan and centerlink and pan and frame.

In my industry we provide 19 mm of clearance to surrounding components to account for 2.5 of engine rotation about the crank centerline (this is for Cummins and Detroit Diesel engines) . No way I have that here. Hope it's enough.
05-25-2019 06:50 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR On the hoist
05-25-2019 06:49 PM
68WASAGOODYEAR Dave, the engine was shipped with oil and nothing else - I'm still in the process of getting it running but haven't added any coolant. The pic in the previous post was taken with the oil (or whatever it is) draining and the engine on the hoist. I have new 20W50 to put in it now.

T56 bolted up
05-25-2019 01:12 PM
Big Dave Green oil is from Brad-Penn formerly Kendal GT. Additive shouldn't be distinguishable once mixed with the oil because it will be so diluted. Are you sure that green color isn't coolant (different viscosity than oil), with the brown being engine oil?

Big Dave
05-25-2019 11:25 AM
68WASAGOODYEAR My crate engine came with oil in it - it's 20W50. The oil is almost an olive drab green with a reddish tint to it. Does anyone know if this is an additive of some sort for new engines or does 20W50 just look like this? More curious than anything really... Thanks.
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