|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-16-2019 06:45 AM|
|wk2hons||With the new oil pump the engine pre lubed fine. I used an old distributor with the gear teeth machined off to, run with a drill. Broke in the cam. Engine is running great. all ready put 200 mi on it.|
|06-13-2019 12:18 PM|
I used to test the stock motors that I built for used car lots on a test stand in front of the owner to be sure that the buyer was aware that I had fulfilled my end of our contract, but all performance engines went on an engine dyno for testing and tuning before delivery.
|06-13-2019 12:11 PM|
|Deadwolf||I personally prefer to run an engine in a test stand before installing it, be it one I build or one I buy complete. This way I can check oil pressure and tune the carburetor before dropping it between the frame rails. Also I get to inspect the break in oil before dropping it in and see if I have any metal or stuff that isn't supposed to be in the oil in the oil. Have a weird noise I can figure it out before it is in the car also.|
|06-12-2019 07:22 PM|
|wk2hons||I ended up pulling the engine, putting it on an engine stand and pulling the oil pan and replacing the oil pump. I had to buy the pump, pan gasket silicone,and more break in oil. The engine manufacturer is going to send me a check in the mail. Man what a lot of work. The new oil pump was very smooth. The original one locked up as I rotated it by hand.|
|06-04-2019 10:12 PM|
I'm with Dave on all that oiling info.
I would not personally start the engine without a real good prime and fresh oil on the lifters and rocker arms.
If you really suspect the pump, I'd say go ahead and pull the engine back out.
But first if see if that new one feels better.
Do you have an oil pressure gauge installed?
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
|06-04-2019 09:48 AM|
With a lift and a Power Pack hydraulic tool it can be done, but for the hobbiest it is easier to pull the motor and put it back on an engine stand.
If this is a GMPP crate motor you could haul the car to the dealership for them to fix it for free. If it wasn't built by GM you are on your own. This illustrates the difference between a warranty and a guarantee.
|06-04-2019 09:20 AM|
350 crate engine
I am really in trouble. I used the proper tool to pre-lube the engine, and the oil pump sounds like a meat grinder. I got this engine from Jegs and they are making me contact the manufactor . Im shore they will send me a new oil pump and pan gasket. now i have to decide to pull the engine back out, or raise it to get the oil pan off, which I don't know if that's even possible.
|06-03-2019 10:02 AM|
Pre-oiling prevents premature wear as parts start up dry. To minimize wear you should have everything installed and adjusted to run. You have to vary the RPM on break in so there won't be time for extended idling to adjust timing and carb. Motor must be provided cool water or installed in car with cooling system fully functional. If you have a flat tappet cam you can loose it in the first ten minutes of the start up.
|06-02-2019 10:40 PM|
|wk2hons||Thanks, That's a lot to absorb, but I understand most of it. Bottom line should I continue and start the engine? I have the break in oil in it, just have to put water pump and radiator and coolant.|
|06-02-2019 08:05 PM|
Two issues is the fact that the tang and slot will not drive evenly. That is the tang will want to walk to one side of the slot or the other where it will hit the casting wall. Second not only do you need the bottom portion of the distributor to hole the tang centered in the slot but it will never prime any way. The oil has to flow around the distributor base to get into the oil galleries. Without the lower portion in place oil comes up and just dumps into the distributor hole with out ever feeding the lifter galleries.
This article about distributor gears shows a close up of the bottom of the distributor with the groove cast in it to channel the oil.
You can see what you need on this Chevy Oil pump priming tool from ProForm:
|06-02-2019 07:28 PM|
350 crate engine
I just put a new 350 crate engine in a 67 Impala. Before I dropped the dist. in I made a shaft to fit the oil pump shaft and when turning it by hand it feels like a glitch in it (not smooth). When I drove the shaft with a cordless drill it sounded like it was grinding. I put a lot of time putting this engine in properly. Please advise if this is normal or not. Thanks