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Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems

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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-30-2019 10:31 AM
67SS My 67 is bagged. I replaced the stock alternator with 165amp tuff stuff alternator, ran the 0 gauge wire to the trunk, fused splitter into 6 gauge for short distance to the relays, from relays 10 gauge to each compressor. 165 amp provides more than enough to feed 2 compressors and 1200W amp.
08-29-2019 04:43 AM
Tony Dinh
Quote:
Originally Posted by UMDSmith View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Dinh View Post
Thanks for the info greatly appreciated. So the two pumps run at 20amps each, and my amplifier has a battery fuse rating of 150A rockfosgate punch 1000x5

Would the zero gauge to distribution block work for this? Or is the amperage rating too high at this point.
So you have 40 amps from compressors, and amplifier draw is based on Ohms law, which in this case is amps = watts/volt. If 1000 watts is your max, and not your RMS, it is based on a 12.6V system, so 79 amps max. If we add the 2 together, you are sitting at 119Amps. We can round up to 120 just for ease.

120 Amps over a 15ft or more run would need a minimum of 2 AWG, but honestly, with the current cost, just get yourself 0AWG OFC (oxygen free copper). My preferred vendor is knuconceptz for wiring, as they don't skimp on copper and overuse shielding.

I use things like these as power studs to run multiple items off of (fuse each one as needed).
https://www.amazon.com/Positive-Insu...gateway&sr=8-6
Awesome thanks for the info!
08-28-2019 08:21 PM
UMDSmith
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony Dinh View Post
Thanks for the info greatly appreciated. So the two pumps run at 20amps each, and my amplifier has a battery fuse rating of 150A rockfosgate punch 1000x5

Would the zero gauge to distribution block work for this? Or is the amperage rating too high at this point.
So you have 40 amps from compressors, and amplifier draw is based on Ohms law, which in this case is amps = watts/volt. If 1000 watts is your max, and not your RMS, it is based on a 12.6V system, so 79 amps max. If we add the 2 together, you are sitting at 119Amps. We can round up to 120 just for ease.

120 Amps over a 15ft or more run would need a minimum of 2 AWG, but honestly, with the current cost, just get yourself 0AWG OFC (oxygen free copper). My preferred vendor is knuconceptz for wiring, as they don't skimp on copper and overuse shielding.

I use things like these as power studs to run multiple items off of (fuse each one as needed).
https://www.amazon.com/Positive-Insu...gateway&sr=8-6
08-28-2019 08:04 PM
UMDSmith
Quote:
Originally Posted by ram13 View Post
Hi Check out Tony Candela's sight https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/alternators/ Lots of good info. He specializes in auto electrics and charging systems. Mecman alternators charge at idle. They are heavy duty and have a good warranty.
Mechman alternators are awesome. I still have a 250amp from my 06 tahoe sitting on a shelf in my garage. Barely used but traded in the Tahoe (and I'll be damned if I don't keep the alternator). I'm going to try and fit it to my 454 for the bel air.
08-22-2019 01:21 PM
ram13 Hi Check out Tony Candela's sight https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/alternators/ Lots of good info. He specializes in auto electrics and charging systems. Mecman alternators charge at idle. They are heavy duty and have a good warranty.
08-22-2019 09:40 AM
Big Dave A 150 Amp motor is the same draw as a sterter motor. You will meed a larger guage wire than a 4 if you move the compressor to the trunk. I would instal a second battery as used in RV vehicles to provide power were needed and to keep the second battery charged.

Big Dave
08-21-2019 08:30 PM
Tony Dinh
Quote:
Originally Posted by UMDSmith View Post
Tony,

I am running bags with a dual compressor setup, and will be adding a stereo later. Big Dave gave some excellent advice, but I would say alternator upgrades are normally a good idea on any older vehicle when you want to put some modern electronics. At idle, these older 60amp or lower alternators don't even put out enough to run windshield wipers and headlights, let alone anything additional without adding draw to the battery.

I ran 0AWG OFC wire to the trunk to a distribution point that I can then tap off of for anything additional I need. I also have a ground disrtribution point that is direct run down to the frame. I run a small wire that is hot when the key is on to a switch, then to an SPST relay to engage the compressors. I added a hidden switch because right now the compressors are a bit loud, and sometimes I don't want to wait for them to fill the tank if I'm already at drive height, so I can just switch it off (without waiting for the auto pressure shutoff). I have done the big three wiring upgrade as well, and have a new alternator ready to go in once I swap the motor.

You can always go larger with your ground, but don't go smaller with regards to wire size. Big Dave was a bit conservative on amp carrying capacity, which can actually change with temperature, but a good OFC wire like those sold by knuconceptz or other quality brands, can actually carry around 80-90amps at 25ft. 60amps is still an excellent safe number, especially given the number of cheap brands that claim 4awg but it is mostly insulation and not conductor.

If you go with copper clad aluminum (CCA) it has more resistance, so can't carry as much current over similar lengths.
Thanks for the info greatly appreciated. So the two pumps run at 20amps each, and my amplifier has a battery fuse rating of 150A rockfosgate punch 1000x5

Would the zero gauge to distribution block work for this? Or is the amperage rating too high at this point.
08-21-2019 07:44 PM
UMDSmith Tony,

I am running bags with a dual compressor setup, and will be adding a stereo later. Big Dave gave some excellent advice, but I would say alternator upgrades are normally a good idea on any older vehicle when you want to put some modern electronics. At idle, these older 60amp or lower alternators don't even put out enough to run windshield wipers and headlights, let alone anything additional without adding draw to the battery.

I ran 0AWG OFC wire to the trunk to a distribution point that I can then tap off of for anything additional I need. I also have a ground disrtribution point that is direct run down to the frame. I run a small wire that is hot when the key is on to a switch, then to an SPST relay to engage the compressors. I added a hidden switch because right now the compressors are a bit loud, and sometimes I don't want to wait for them to fill the tank if I'm already at drive height, so I can just switch it off (without waiting for the auto pressure shutoff). I have done the big three wiring upgrade as well, and have a new alternator ready to go in once I swap the motor.

You can always go larger with your ground, but don't go smaller with regards to wire size. Big Dave was a bit conservative on amp carrying capacity, which can actually change with temperature, but a good OFC wire like those sold by knuconceptz or other quality brands, can actually carry around 80-90amps at 25ft. 60amps is still an excellent safe number, especially given the number of cheap brands that claim 4awg but it is mostly insulation and not conductor.

If you go with copper clad aluminum (CCA) it has more resistance, so can't carry as much current over similar lengths.
08-19-2019 11:40 PM
Tony Dinh
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
Once again it will depend upon use. If you expect to dribble your car like a bunch of low riders in the valley on Friday night then yes you will. If you use it to raise the car to driving height and only lower it for a car show; no.

Big Dave
I see okay thanks!
08-19-2019 11:02 PM
Big Dave Once again it will depend upon use. If you expect to dribble your car like a bunch of low riders in the valley on Friday night then yes you will. If you use it to raise the car to driving height and only lower it for a car show; no.

Big Dave
08-19-2019 06:28 PM
Tony Dinh
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
Depends upon the load (Amps rating of the compressor). Over 25' a 4 gauge Red wire can carry 60 Amps. To provide a good ground I would run a similar sized and length Green wire as a ground path. There are few switches rated for 60 Amps (most 12 V SPST switches top out at 30 Amps). So the switch must also be able to handle the load. Recomend using a relay to switch the power allowing you to use any switch you want *decorative, lighted or standard toggle switch).

https://www.amazon.com/TE-tyco-Curre.../dp/B00OHRZ782

Big Dave
Thanks! Also do you think I need to upgrade my alternator and battery? Or should I be fine
08-19-2019 11:04 AM
Big Dave Depends upon the load (Amps rating of the compressor). Over 25' a 4 gauge Red wire can carry 60 Amps. To provide a good ground I would run a similar sized and length Green wire as a ground path. There are few switches rated for 60 Amps (most 12 V SPST switches top out at 30 Amps). So the switch must also be able to handle the load. Recomend using a relay to switch the power allowing you to use any switch you want *decorative, lighted or standard toggle switch).

https://www.amazon.com/TE-tyco-Curre.../dp/B00OHRZ782

Big Dave
08-19-2019 03:46 AM
Tony Dinh
Electrical upgrade

Going to be running bag suspension two pumps and amp and speakers. Had some questions. Do I need upgrade my alternator and battery? Also can I run a 4 gauge power wire to the rear and use that to power the amp and bag system? Or do I need to run two different power wires to the rear thanks

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