|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|02-11-2020 10:49 AM|
Moving on to the engine, trans, and exhaust.
I added a 454 with hooker headers and a 700r4 4 speed automatic.
The 700r4 is longer than the powerglide and needs a new cross member or move back the existing one by 2.5-3". I bought the crossmember from CPP it fits well.
Also you will need to have your drive shaft shortened by 3" the distance from trans output to rear diff was 61" so the driveshaft needs to be 58.5". I got mine from southwest speed on Ebay for $220 shipped in 2 days!! Comes with new joints and yoke.
|02-11-2020 10:41 AM|
Before I put the body back on the frame I decided to run a thread tap through the body nuts. Just to make a life a little easier.
7/16" - 14 tap with a little oil on it.
Run them through all the body nuts
Ready for the bolts...
|01-31-2020 11:10 AM|
Lifting off the body:
I used a 2x4 on each side with a 3/4" slot cut in them for the pinch weld so I could center the board on the rocker and not hit the frame.
The 2x4 is then screwed to the Lift arm plates.
As you can see the old frame is pretty rough, especially behind the front tires.
Fun things I've found:
Someone has been under this car before, there is a Hockey Puck being used as frame bushing.
Maybe is was a Canadian built car.... Ha ha, it was a STL build...
|01-18-2020 11:22 PM|
While trying to cut down the bushings to fit my 66 frame I read one person used a hole saw to cut them down. But that did not work for me it was to wobbly and cut too much rubber.
The other way I thought I could cut rubber was my Table router.
That worked just fine. little trial and error but it worked out in the end.
Now they fit in their frame holes and I didn't have to cut the frame.
|01-01-2020 02:17 PM|
|BA.||Great pictures man! Tough job! I bought the bushings and never have gotten around to getting them in yet.|
|12-31-2019 06:33 PM|
Removing the frame bolts.....
I did not take off the front clip, just removed the fender liner after I found I could not get to the firewall bolts.
|12-31-2019 06:33 PM|
66 impala frame replacement
I found some rust in my frame. Both sides lower area behind the front tire. The bottom of the frame, the top and upper bend seem good.
This is a coupe, nothing seems to be sagging yet, the doors, hood and trunk shut well.
I found a replacement frame for $1000, Looks to be in good shape.
Pics of the frame:
outside of front passenger side
inside of front passenger side
Driver side outside
driver side inside, before trans brace.
She's getting replaced...
replacement frame, got it blasted and powder coated.
Working on prepping the frame see my frame clip post.
URL - https://www.impalas.net/forums/8-res...fuel-line.html
As for frame bolts. my old ones are a mismatch of random 7/16"-14 original and new bolts.
But it looks like a found a good kit.
I bought a $25 bolt kit on Summit it was junk.
just 12 bolts 3.5" long and do not fit the back body mounts too long.
I found this one on Inline tube (aka - Motorcity Muscle Car)site. For a 1968-72 Pontiac A-Body looks like it is just the ticket. 12 bolts,2 different sizes, washers and 4 1" square nuts.
Little of the process to get the old bolts out...