You did a great job on that looks original with awesome HP I like it, a lot of planing went into it.Depending on how far you want to follow your obsession of keeping it stock looking, getting a 350 block to look exactly like the earlier 283 and 327 blocks is a bit problematic. The stamp pad is noticeably different. The PCV system is different. The 283/327 block has a whole for the draft tube/vent system just behind the intake manifold. Whereas the 350 block will have that eliminated in the casting and uses those valve covers with the (leaky) holes in them for the PCV system. Also the harmonic dampener is larger on the 350, which might require carving a chunk out of the power steering pump bracket for clearance.
I went down this path with my 64, in which I had put a 350 based 383 in back in the 80's. When I did my restoration in 2012-13, I started out trying to make the 350 based 383 look like a stock 327, but ultimately went with a date correct 327 block, heads, intake and carb.
The 350 based 383. You can see the PCV hoses on the valve covers and the large stamp pad.
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I got this far with it before I decided that the stamp pad and dampener stood out too much as non-original. I was also concerned that my hooky vent tube might not work well enough.
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To a casual observer, it might look original, but would not hold up to a close examination.
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So I put that aside and had a date correct 327 block bored and stroked to a 383. The trick part is the difference in journal size between the 350 block (large journal) and the 327 block (small journal). Most 383 stroker cranks are large journal. The solution is to put 350 main caps on and have it line bored to match, making it a large journal block.
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I used a forged stroker crank.
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Roller lifters (no cam break-in worries)
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The end result is a perfectly stock looking 327-300 that is actually a 383 making 370hp and more importantly, 420 torque.
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