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Just installed a set of headers on our 327 67 Impala. I was really amazed how easy they were to install and they fit great. :thumbsup: I did however have problems with the Mr Gasket alternator bracket. I had to re bend it to work. :mad: When I find something that fits right the first time I like to pass it on. Or when it doesn't . These headers should fit all 65-70 Impala, Belair, Biscayne. 2 or 4 door and wagons with small block engines.
 

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Do you happen to have the part # for the alternator bracket? I'm installing some headers on my car pretty soon.

Thanks
 

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Nice Larry!

Two thumbs up for headers that fit!!

Jose, that alternator bracket he shows there looks like the very same one that all the parts names sell. (Hedman, Hooker, Jegs, Summit, Edelbrock, etc, etc)
Seriously, just type in 'alternator bracket' at www.jegs.com and click the appropriate chevy, small block, short waterpump boxes on the left and you'll probably see a dozen of these same brackets.

I just did this last week and bought a new set myself.

.
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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Thanks guys. I'll put in my order for it tonight. I already have the headman headers I was just waiting for the bracket and you guys answered my question before I posted a new post on here.
 

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Question, are those brackets for a side mount alternator?
The car is stock 1960 convertible 283 engine,automatic... the owner ( a friend) wants to swap the generator for an alternator
Thanks
 

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Is he running headers or manifolds? If manifolds I think you can use the generator brackets.
 

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headers or leave the ram's horns

image.jpg I am thinking about changing out the old ram's horn setup. I would like to gain a bit more power and sound, do you guys think its worth it? I also wonder about the alternator bracket and the block safety wires that tie down to the control rod pins..... oh and what is this little thing that is on the rams head exhaust right before the pipe comes in from the muffler?
 

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Had to look at your picture for a moment, its upside down. I think your looking at the heat riser. That gets deleted when going with headers.
 

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Larry,
Ya the pic did get flipped..... bad since I am a Photographer.
Will I gain enough of what I want to make it worth the change to headers.
 

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Headers should give you about 30 HP on a stock engine. They are designed to work with better heads and cam. Also up grade your intake and carb.
 

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The bracket and the five ton cable that encircles the upper control arm cross shaft is GM's answer to Ralph Nader's instigated safety recall and law suit resulting from broken motor mounts. (do not loose those parts as they are very valuable do to rarity today). That strap limits the motor's movement when the motor mount breaks. It will not work with tubular steel headers as it relies upon the structural strength of the cast iron manifold to hold the bracket in place. The reason those parts are so rare today is everyone that installed aftermarket headers threw those parts away. They were installed on every Chevy made after 1958 that was brought into their local dealership to get the cable installed for free, because of the first federally mandated product safety recall in history.

If you go to tubular headers you will need to replace your simple vulcanized rubber (glued together) motor mounts for a 1958-'68 year car (you want the short and wide and not the tall and narrow size used on newer cars from 1969-'72.

The dimensional size of the motor mount changed in 1969 and up through 1972. Most parts stores not only stock the newer style, but they will try and hand it to you if you ask for a SBC motor mount because the computer says it fits: they will not fit on your car as you need the older style mount. You want a one that is interlocking; so ask for one off of a 1966 360 horsepower 327 SBC Corvette engine to get the correct tall short and wide sized part the first time out. (measures 2-5/8th inch between the tangs and the hole in the tang is 1-3/4 inch from the block's mounting surface).

http://www.jegs.com/p/Energy-Suspension/Energy-Suspension-GM-Motor-Mounts/773400/10002/-1

Headers make a big performance boost and they do so by restoring lost horsepower caused by the cast iron manifold allowing one cylinder to bleed exhaust gasses into an adjacent cylinder polluting the fuel air charge with spent gases (works just like an EGR valve). That one polluted cylinder yields most of the 25 to 30 horse gain caused by bolting on headers.

Where headers cause issues is in installing an alternator on an older car without accessory mounting holes machined into the heads (1968 and up). The older 1958-'68 Chevy used longer brackets that allowed the V-belt to fly off at high RPM. To fix this issue Chevy went to the long water pump in 1969 and brought the accessories in closer to the motor (used shorter V-belts) with all new accessory brackets that bolted to the cylinder heads.

As noted the older cars require the aftermarket bracket to mount the alternator relying on a stamped steel part that he had to bend to get it to fit. Unfortunately the stress on the alternator will easily bend that bracket out of alignment again unless reinforced (gusseted).

Big Dave
 

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I am going to need to replace the headers on mine, back when the car was a lowrider the passenger side collector and lower primaries frequently it seems contacted the ground and are flattened and have rusted through.

I wanted some shorties that are stainless or ceramic coated.

We will see.

Thanks Big Dave for the motor mount info, that is very useful
 

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The bracket and the five ton cable that encircles the upper control arm cross shaft is GM's answer to Ralph Nader's instigated safety recall and law suit resulting from broken motor mounts. (do not loose those parts as they are very valuable do to rarity today). That strap limits the motor's movement when the motor mount breaks. It will not work with tubular steel headers as it relies upon the structural strength of the cast iron manifold to hold the bracket in place. The reason those parts are so rare today is everyone that installed aftermarket headers threw those parts away. They were installed on every Chevy made after 1958 that was brought into their local dealership to get the cable installed for free, because of the first federally mandated product safety recall in history.

If you go to tubular headers you will need to replace your simple vulcanized rubber (glued together) motor mounts for a 1958-'68 year car (you want the short and wide and not the tall and narrow size used on newer cars from 1969-'72.

The dimensional size of the motor mount changed in 1969 and up through 1972. Most parts stores not only stock the newer style, but they will try and hand it to you if you ask for a SBC motor mount because the computer says it fits: they will not fit on your car as you need the older style mount. You want a one that is interlocking; so ask for one off of a 1966 360 horsepower 327 SBC Corvette engine to get the correct tall short and wide sized part the first time out. (measures 2-5/8th inch between the tangs and the hole in the tang is 1-3/4 inch from the block's mounting surface).

http://www.jegs.com/p/Energy-Suspension/Energy-Suspension-GM-Motor-Mounts/773400/10002/-1

Headers make a big performance boost and they do so by restoring lost horsepower caused by the cast iron manifold allowing one cylinder to bleed exhaust gasses into an adjacent cylinder polluting the fuel air charge with spent gases (works just like an EGR valve). That one polluted cylinder yields most of the 25 to 30 horse gain caused by bolting on headers.

Where headers cause issues is in installing an alternator on an older car without accessory mounting holes machined into the heads (1968 and up). The older 1958-'68 Chevy used longer brackets that allowed the V-belt to fly off at high RPM. To fix this issue Chevy went to the long water pump in 1969 and brought the accessories in closer to the motor (used shorter V-belts) with all new accessory brackets that bolted to the cylinder heads.

As noted the older cars require the aftermarket bracket to mount the alternator relying on a stamped steel part that he had to bend to get it to fit. Unfortunately the stress on the alternator will easily bend that bracket out of alignment again unless reinforced (gusseted).

Big Dave
Big Dave
You are a weath of information.

So you are saying that the Mr Gasket bracket may fail if not reinforced.
Is the short nose water pump ok to use.
 

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Yes if you had to bend it to align it, the constant pull on the belt along with vibration will bend it back again. It needs to be reinfoced to prevent that.

Big Dave
 

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Thanks.
Also those motor mounts from jegs. I need to get a pair. My car has currently solid mounts.
I did not Know about the differences in the stock ones. I will order the jegs ones
 

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The Mr Gasket alt bracket isn't going to fail or bend back as it is a heavy gage steel. It took some force to bend it to the shape it should have been from the overseas factory where the employees have never seen a or heard of a Chevy.
 

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Header fit question

I have the same headers to install on my BB Impala. How low to they hang down? Do you think they would cause clearance problems on a slightly lowered car (less than 2").

Thanks!
 

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Of course that's not quite the same header as a BB would use, but more importantly, a BB does not need any additional alternator brackets. I have Hooker headers on my lowered car and I don't have any problems.
 

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I just replaced the shorty headers on my Son's big block '69 with a pair of Hooker Comp's. They fit very well and clear everything ( a little close to the power steering gear, but didn't have to dent them like the others.)
I also order the 2 1/2 inch exhaust kit from Pypes that includes the x pipe. My question is about the clearance to the trans crossmember. The header collectors dump out about 3 inches wider than the exhaust "humps" in the crossmember and only about 4-6 inches in front of them. What have you guys done to get the exhaust past that? I'm not sure that I can get the pipes bent that far in that short of a distance and I really don't want to flatten out the pipes that much to get them up where I think they should be. I thought about notching out and re-enforcing the crossmember, but there really isn't much room to the floorboard there either.
I guess I should also mention that I am running a TH350 trans with a stock crossmember.
Any input of your experience and suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, Roy
 
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