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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I figured I'd start my own thread since it's already taken a month and it's easily going to take another month or two already. I've had to ask a question or two. All I wanted to do was to replace the fuse block. :noway: I'm slowing replacing all bad wires (under the dash) and connections in the process with newly recrimped soldered connections with at least, minium size wire.
Here's a picture before I started. Most of this wiring was like this when I got the vehicle 10 years ago. Out of sight, out of mind, right?


The ignition circuit when smooth. I fire it up on the 15th try, everything is running like it should now. I turned it off, got out of the car to turn off the battery and the car continued to run. It went pretty good except for the "run on" incident that was easily resolved by moving the MSD box to the right terminal on the painless fuse box #30003.

Now on to the fun stuff like the lamp and brake wiring. When I first turned on the power (I have a battery disconnect switch), the (4) rear lamps came on. I think this is due to the (dark) green wire coming from the lamp switch connecting to the fuse block. I disconnect it and they don't come on. I have two power wires (green & red) coming from the light switch going to the fuse block. I verified (I'm no electrical engineer) this because of the wiring diagrams found online. My guess is I have something else wrong back up line somewhere that's causing the issue and it's not my two power leads to the light switch. I know it's impossible for you to know what's been done so far like disconnecting the connections on the steering column & countless other connections....maybe I'm jumping the gun...but...

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I figured it out about thirty minutes ago. There's a black and orange wire that had been previously spliced (replaced) that needed to be connected to the fuse block.

I spent a long time thinking about replacing the entire harness. I really did. The problem was, I have so many after market parts on the car and many factory items removed, unused, relocated or replaced with something aftermarket. I'm finding that there's only a few seriously damaged wires that need to be repaired and the wire bundles and most likely be re bundled. That's at least my plan and I think you may be right though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I managed to get the flasher circuit working this week. It took several days of :clonk: before I realized that the lamp switch itself was F'd up & actually causing the tail lights to come on by themselves. A quick jiggle of the lamp switch and a turn and they went off.wtf. I thought it might have been on the wrong circuit, but just shaking the switch will make them go on/off/on/off. It'll work for the time being. I'm beginning to expect the unexpected now:boxing: The majority of my problems seem to be self inflicted however when I'm debugging the circuit.

Lights, & signals are functioning (except the front two running lights (?bulbs?)), gauges have been relocated (temporarily). I'll get some updated pics this weekend.
 

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LOL, a loud gasp came out when I saw the picture up there. the dog actually got scared and ran out.

I had the wiper switch come apart in my hand last summer and since then my wipers won't stop. My problem isn't that bad after all....
 

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The front park lights go out when you turn on the headlights. That how they are suppose to work. Front park lights on the first notch, Headlights only on the second.
 

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Wow you really need to organize that bird nest of wires. Wire ties? Plastic sleaving? Otherwise in the future it becomes impossible to trouble shoot anything. Cool car though!

Yep front parkers went off with the headlights on until 1968.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
does anyone know how much current this type of relay/solenoid draws? it's a ford relay i'm using mounted inside the vehicle to prevent the old known issue of starters not working when they get too hot.

my neutral safety switch connects to this relay (purple circle), but i'm concerned about the wire gauge size. which posts should i measure resistance to determine the current needed to activate it? would that be the copper posts?



BTW - i got my reverse lights working for the first time since i've owned the car (10 years!) :hurray: more to follow since i'm getting close to wrapping this up :D

as always.....Thanks everyone :beers:
 

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I'll be the first to admit the limits of my knowledge but wow, I've studied that picture and read the supposed fix for hot starting and I'll be damned if I think that solenoid is doing anything valuable. :)

Either I'm misunderstanding something, or it's a farce. :dunno:
 

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They do work. Back in the mid 80's when we got new Chevy school busses with 366 big blocks, the ford solenoid was standard equipment from GM mounted on the firewall. Even GM knew they had a problem with heat under the hoods and hard starting.
 

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Hello ping:

I'm new to this site, but have been a Union Electrician for 25 years so take my advice for face value please. A new harness for dash is a good call but the choice is yours. Your aftermarket "stuff" will connect with little difficulty if you take notes on disconnect. You have a lot of loose ends there with "live" leads hanging everywhere, which is a set-up for Shorts. At least a few wire ties and wraps for the leads...Other than that may i suggest as an Electrician....A good sauce like ragu or classico should make it taste better....lol
 

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They do work. Back in the mid 80's when we got new Chevy school busses with 366 big blocks, the ford solenoid was standard equipment from GM mounted on the firewall. Even GM knew they had a problem with heat under the hoods and hard starting.
Hey Larry,
I don't doubt the heat issue,...I've had it. It sucks! :) but, the way that drawing is made, the Positive cable from the starter is still basically connected directly to the battery. It is not on the correct side of the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My starter is prone to heat next to the engine & headers (its a BBC) + living in Texas might not help. :waving:

Hello ping:
A new harness for dash is a good call but the choice is yours.
I completely agree...I would have, but I knew I was going to use half of it and probably cut a quarter up of the remaining half...the picture above was taken just as I was starting. This one was taken a couple a weeks ago. I was working on the shifter last week to the get neutral saftey switch and the reverse lights wired up. I've always had a floor shifter in this car, but neither of these features functioned properly. I even had to contact B&M because the shifter I purchased only came with one micro switch from the factory.

I read through that article, but I could not find the gauge size or current...only "the ford solenoid does not require anywhere near as much current to activate"...that does provide a peace of mind though...lol. I'll try 16ga and go from there. It's only used to activate the circuit. I guess I'll find out real quick this summer. I do plan on shortning or removing loose wires & tie wrapping everything, but only after I'm finished...;)


this picture gives a view of the new fuse block & what remains of where the old one used to be...


I ended up using trailer light cable from pepboys for my micro switches...


10 years & i finally get to see what my reverse lights look like!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Did the 1965 Impala have a dimmer for the instrument lamps in the dash or were they just on/off? I'm in the process of figuring out which wire controls this function (I'm actually hooking up the lights for all my after market gauges and would like a dimmer). It seems that the grey wire is responsible for this, but I can't find where the grey wire meets the light switch connector of the lamp switch. My dash lights have never worked in the past. When I give the grey wire power, everything seems to work, but I don't see how the grey wire ties back in to the lamp switch. Does this make any sense? :confused: lol I have reviewed the online wire diagrams several times. I appears that they are connected directly to the fuse block in the diagram...so I can't figure out where the control/switch is in the circuit. If I give them direct power, they'd be on all the time. :noway:

Ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I think I answered my questions because my tail lights now dim when I turn the dimmer knob on the light switch :sad: So I obviously have them hooked up to the wrong wire coming off the lamp switch or fuse block...But they work when I pull the lamp knob. :confused: I guess thats the dash light circuit.

I think I need to call it quits for the day and start fresh tomorrow before I'm able to start my car by using the turn signal.... :noway:
 

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wiring

LOL..you do have a great attitude towards a complicated task. One thing to remember with wiring, AC or DC ...Many ways to do it wrong, only one way to do it right. If you get it to where it makes coffee when you hit the horn...I'll buy it from you....lol:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Many ways to do it wrong, only one way to do it right.
You hit the nail on the head Jackson.

I managed to figure out my problem first thing this morning, or atleast think i figured it out. I had the green wire running directly to the fuse block from the lamp switch. After thoroughly looking at the old fuse panel, I realize that the green wire came from the lamp switch->fused at the panel->then ran back out (grey wire) to the instument (dash) lamps (or at least this is my theory). Even though the old dash lamps wire came from the fuse block, it did not obtain it's original 12v source of power at the fuse block via the grey wire...only fused there. I'm now starting to tie wrap everything up & hopefully will be able to make it to the track Memorial Day weekend for a couple nitrous passes:hurray:

As of this afternoon, all my gauge lights are hooked up and dimming properly - another first in 10 years! All my lights & signals appear to be working properly (tail lights no longer dim w/ lamp switch:noway:...lol)

I do have a simple question - what's the best way to connect 6 wires into one? Right now, I'm just connecting 2 or 3 into one, then connecting those 2 wires into one. I basically twist them together, solder them and then put some heat shrink of it. This is for my gauge lights.
 
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