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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ordered a new POL 1-1/8" front sway bar for my 1966 Impala Convertible. I'm struggling to feed the sway bar through the holes in the frame. I removed the front tires, and had the most luck fishing the bar through the frame when coming from the passenger side. I removed the brake caliper and the rotor just to make some additional room, but it still interferes with both the spindle and the frame. Am I missing something here? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Jeff
 

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Welcome to the Team Jeff!

The obvious question is have you read the instructions? Or contacted the manufacturer for help? There may also be a You-Tube on this problem some where.

This is often an issue with hot rodding any vehicle. You are exploring new territory since the '66 didn't offer disc brakes.

With disc brakes it doesn't matter where the caliper is mounted (in front of or behind the axle, high or low), only that the bleed screw is facing up when you are done.

If your brakes use an adapter plate you can change sides to move the caliper mounting location from in front of to behind the axle, or to flip them over to mount high or low (you have to be careful when mounting high or low to center the caliper over the rotor with shims when you flip it). If you are using the wheel cylinder mounting location to mount the calipers it becomes more difficult. You also have to change the length of the brake hose and make sure it clears the suspension when cycling through the wheels movements. Such are the joys of hot rodding.

Even the assembly manual isn't a big help because few B-bodies had a front sway bar and fewer still had a big one.

Another problem I had with my Impala was the bar ripped off the frame mount when testing it to find it's maximum G on cornering. Because I bought the biggest bar I could find I had to replace the factory sway bar mounting strap with a welded up fabrication out of thicker metal and gusseted for added strength and held it in place with four grade eight machine screws with nuts instead of the factory over sized self threading sheet metal screws.

Big Dave
 

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That is a very nice bar and I love the attaching brackets with bolts and nuts to prevent pulling off of the frame.

Big Dave
 

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I recently purchased the same bar as the OP. I removed my driver side wheel and fished mine through that side as it has the larger (oblong) hole in the frame for the bar. I have not completed my install though as I need to drill 2 new holes as stated above. Then I can finish installing the sway bar end links. The driver side is installed
Already but I still need to put the passenger side in which I will likely do before drilling the new holes to make sure it all lines up correctly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Welcome to the site!
As you can see, you are not alone! Installing a fat new sway-bar can be a pita on these.


I had a friend do my new swaybar along with a front end rebuild since he was in financial need but I will say he said it was a big pita for the reasons that you mentioned. It took a lot of wrestling. (mine is an Addco solid bar)
I also had the unexpected issue of having to drill new mounting holes for the provided brackets. It definitely provided a flatter ride around the ol' clover-leaf on-ramps! I like it.

I don't think it's out of the question to consider any extra clearancing/grinding you may want to do on those 2 frame holes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the directions! I tried calling POL but they weren’t answering. I sent an email but haven’t heard back. Anyhow, I’ll give it another shot soon. Thanks!!!

Jeff
 

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I had the same issue. I pulled out the die grinder and removed some metal in the openings it was going thru. Didn’t take much to allow it to slide thru. Clean grinding and a little black paint and all was well.
 
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