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Awesome story! Congratulations!! I'm glad you are not going to flip it. I can't wait to see pictures.
I see the car was built at the Van Nuys, CA assembly plant ("L" in the VIN). I wonder if it was originally deliver in California? FYI, All California delivered cars had RPO K19 - AIR equipment (smog pump) installed. Of course, when we were kids, the first thing we did was pitch the smog pump. I now think it is cool to see a car restored with the K19 retained.

BTW, I'm getting ready to start restoration on my 1967 Impala SS w/396 (with K19). I've owned this car since 1986 and now call it --> "my own personal barn find" ...Lol...
 
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You might be in luck!! Here are a few cowl tags from Van Nuys. I don't know where I got the first two, but I personally snapped the last photo. I think the South Gate, CA assembly plant is one of the plants not to code "4D".
Automotive tire Tread Tire Synthetic rubber Rim
Audio equipment Electronic instrument Font Electronic device Electronic component
Automotive tire Gas Bumper Office equipment Font
 

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12C = The body build date tells the month and week the body was produced. 02 = December 1966, B = 3rd week.
67 = Model year --> 1967.
16887 = Body style --> Chevrolet Impala SS 2-door coupe, V8.
LOS = Assembly plant --> Van Nuys, CA.
3446 = Sequential number of the the 2 door hardtop Impala body built at the Van Nuys plant.
895 = Interior code --> Parchment. Material type is: Vinyl (Impala SS coupe) Seat type: Bucket.
S = Bucket seats with headrests.
R-R = Body Paint code --> R = Lower --> Bolero Red; A = Upper --> Bolero Red.
E = (Accessory codes, Group 1, the "1" is implied) Tinted glass.
2ELSR = (Accessory codes) 2 = Group 2; E = Air conditioning; L = 4 speed transmission, wide ratio; S = Rear antenna; R = Rear speaker.
4D = (Accessory codes) 4 = Group 4; D = SS427
5Y = (Accessory codes) 5 = Group 5; Y = Custom front and rear deluxe seat beats with front re-tractors.
 
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Odd, the cowl tag reads Bolero Red for lower/upper paint (R-R), but the car has a vinyl top.
 

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It will be restored to factory correct, including the K19 (smog pump). I will add some factory options, such as tilt column, power disc brakes, U14 gauges. No non-factory modifications.
 
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First, figure out the correct colors of the different components --> some are black, some are natural (gray). I do know the hood hinges and hood latch is phosphate gray.

Personally, I would use powder coating for sure. They blast and clean it and then the parts come back to you ready to go! I'm happy with the shade of the powder coating. Make sure you use a reputable company that does great work.

Here is what I did for my convertible.
Satin black --> chassis, upper/lower control arms (both front and rear), spring (if still OK), inner fender wells, core support, engine accessory brackets, transmission support and anything else that is black.
The following under hood items done in GLOSS black --> radiator spacer, heater box assembly and air cleaner.

Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Automotive exterior Vehicle
 
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My frame is not powder coated, as I did not do a frame-off. But, I did powder coat EVERYTHING else I mentioned above. I have put over 5000 miles on the car since the powder coating was done in 2015 with ZERO issues. You would think the inner-fender wells would be very susceptible to rock chips, but again, no issues. I'm careful where I drive --> no dirt roads or areas of construction. I have a buddy with a 1972 Camaro and he had the subframe powder coated. He lives in rural area (more rocks/gravel) and drives his car more than I do mine and he has had no issues chipping or rust.
I Think the key is to find a reputable powder coating compnay.
 
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