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Thanks for reply my 66 sat for 20 last year I started with wires no pro but every instrument works I recently got rid of my 2013 suburban why I took all the wire out don't know so I looked at wires and they are are the same maybe a gauge or two off there complete I just wanted to make the harness smaller lighter and thought about making a harness out of the 12 feet of wire from suburban the gauge of wire got me stumped so was wondering if I made every wire the same would I be alright thanks again
I'm not sure I'm enough of an electrician to give a good explanation of why this is probably a bad idea

@62BillT ?
@BA. ?
 

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A little too unclear on what he is trying to accomplish. Pictures or at least more details would help.
 

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Wondering what is wrong with your harness, but generally speaking if you want to replace wire for wire, I don't see a problem as long as it is copper like the originals. If a wire is one gauge bigger, I don't see a problem there either. Although auto electrics are definitely not one of my strong points.
 

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Wondering what is wrong with your harness, but generally speaking if you want to replace wire for wire, I don't see a problem as long as it is copper like the originals. If a wire is one gauge bigger, I don't see a problem there either. Although auto electrics are definitely not one of my strong points.
Well I have the bulk head and wires so I don't just throw away I wanted to make another harness I guess I'll try let you guys know in two hours how it goes thank you
 

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Starting in 1967 the original engine, and trans should have the last six digits of your VIN stamped on the ID pad (for the motor, or into the pan rail on the tranny if an automatic). As you have already read the VIN tag trumps anything stamped on the trim tag. The hidden VIN is stamped into the frame on the top (hence "hidden") behind the passenger side rear tire but before were the bumper bolts to the frame. You can read it with a mirror after brushing off all of the dirt.

Big Dave
Brown Water Wood Flooring Tints and shades
 

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I'm better at searching the internet than being really knowledgeable about the in's-and-out's of engine block stamps. I'm thinking a couple possible things.

1) this is a replacement warranty Goodwrench engine
2) this is a rebuilt motor from some shop and that's their serial # for the engine

I've tried variations of the number and nothing is coming up. Mortec.com has nothing even close to it in serial #'s that I can find.
until we can get one of our more knowledgeable members to take a look I'm kinda stumped

@62BillT @BA.
I'm still stumped
 

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That picture looks like a rusted Date Code. Let us have a picture of the Engine Suffix Code, located on a Pad at the Front and Bottom of the Passenger Side Head. It is actually on the Block itself but it extends to a Pad about a Half Inch Wide to about 3 Inches Long.
 

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You chopped off the most important part. Move the camera a little to the right so we can see the whole Code.
 

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A little too hard to read. Let us know what the Letters are after the V1104.
 

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It looks like I'm seeing "TYX". If that is correct, you have a '75 350/165 from a Truck.
 

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In the attached photo that starts with a V, what does that number say, That should tell you engine info where it was built, (the engine) and the date it was built less the year, that you would need to find the casting date on side of block or rear flange were the casting number should be on drivers side rear.
 
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