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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I own a 1967 Impala, runs doesn't drive. When the car was towed from my grandmother's house to mine the tow truck driver somehow found a way to bend one of the steering rods. Now one tire points right and the other points left. It's not the worst because I was going to replace anyway, but still pretty annoying. I'm only just getting into cars some I'm a pretty big noob when it comes to this kind of stuff, I'm 16. Does anyone know a good company I could get a full front end rebuild kit from? I need to replace the entire front end, but it seems that wherever I look its either $2,800 or its not everything I need, it's like half the kit or something. Can someone please point me in the right direction? Maybe somebody knows of a good company or good kit to purchase. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm in CT, That was the first pic I took of the car once I got it towed to the house, didn't know how to get the convertible to go down any further so I just left it there lol. I've learned a lot about cars since then. Hadn't run in 18 years, runs rough now somethings wrong with the timing but that can be adjusted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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a quick 30 sec eyeball shows that one is rubber while the other is poly. there may also be some other parts missing but you'll have to compare the two kits.

don't be in a rush to get them as you have to understand the differences between them. poly deflects less for better performance but rubber doesn't squeak for less noise and has been described as a "softer ride". the consensus seems to be rubber body mounts and poly suspension bushings, but again, it depends on what you're going to do with it.

@BigDogSS has got some experience n this area and also has a '67 just like us
@62BillT also has a bit of knowledge

and there are a number of other members here who can give you their experiences. the one thig I would say is, like I said above, don't be in a hurry to pull the trigger to get something done. ask questions, consider the responses, do your research, ask questions AGAIN about the products you find AND the VENDORS, consider, then buy if you're ready.
 

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Hmmm okay, I didn't know about the difference between poly and rubber. I'm not going to be racing this car or anything, it will be a car that I drive around town on the weekends. I'm still looking around for other kits, thinking about the brand moog, not to sure though. Thank you for the help
 

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Hmmm okay, I didn't know about the difference between poly and rubber. I'm not going to be racing this car or anything, it will be a car that I drive around town on the weekends. I'm still looking around for other kits, thinking about the brand moog, not to sure though. Thank you for the help
Moog is a solid brand but sometimes their quality can vary as their parts are made all over the world. I've seen the same part# side by side, one made in Indonesia and the other in <pick a country>. sometimes there is no difference, other times it's pretty obvious. and while there is a lifetime warranty on Moog stuff, personally I don't want to have to do the job twice.

if the car was bought by Grandma and she had it all these years and more-or-less maintained it, then you are extremely lucky. before doing anything, I would have the car gone thru to see what needs work. Divide it into sheetmetal and mechanical. Upload some pics here so we can see what you got and we can also tell you where to look for issues before you start tearing it apart.
One thing you should know about these cars...every year is different, every part is different. I'm not kidding; hoods, grilles, fenders, quarters, dors, door hinges, frames, trunk lids, bumpers, tail lights, you name it. So before you start cutting bad parts off thinking "I'll just replace it", you should know that not all the parts have aftermarket available. One example is the rear inner-wheelwell for '67 convertibles. There is no interchange from another model or year, and nobody makes a replacement. And nobody I have talked to knows of a suitable alternative.

any other questions, just ask and we'll try to answer or point you in the right direction. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Moog is a solid brand but sometimes their quality can vary as their parts are made all over the world. I've seen the same part# side by side, one made in Indonesia and the other in <pick a country>. sometimes there is no difference, other times it's pretty obvious. and while there is a lifetime warranty on Moog stuff, personally I don't want to have to do the job twice.

if the car was bought by Grandma and she had it all these years and more-or-less maintained it, then you are extremely lucky. before doing anything, I would have the car gone thru to see what needs work. Divide it into sheetmetal and mechanical. Upload some pics here so we can see what you got and we can also tell you where to look for issues before you start tearing it apart.
One thing you should know about these cars...every year is different, every part is different. I'm not kidding; hoods, grilles, fenders, quarters, dors, door hinges, frames, trunk lids, bumpers, tail lights, you name it. So before you start cutting bad parts off thinking "I'll just replace it", you should know that not all the parts have aftermarket available. One example is the rear inner-wheelwell for '67 convertibles. There is no interchange from another model or year, and nobody makes a replacement. And nobody I have talked to knows of a suitable alternative.

any other questions, just ask and we'll try to answer or point you in the right direction. (y)
Quick history of the car, it was purchased in 67 brand new by my great grandfather, who drove it up until his death in 2005. from 2005 to 2012 it sat outside in the backyard uncovered, from 2012 to 2022 it sat in a garage. The car now runs and looks salvageable. A mechanic did come by and do a quick overlook of the car to tell me its worth restoring, it does have a lot of rust, and rot on the rear right corner of the frame where the joint is. It will have to be cut and welded. The car has 56,000 miles and anytime it was maintained my great grandfather wrote it down in a journal. Every time he filled it with gas, changed a wiper, anything it was written down. The engine was rebuilt in 93 it had a new top put in in 79 the transmission was rebuilt in 84 on and on the car was well maintained. Right now my goal is to get it rolling and drivable. Biggest concern right now is the steering linkage, breaks, transmission as I checked the fluid to find out it was bone dry after idling for 45 minutes. Any chance you know what type of trans fluid and how much goes in? I don't know what kind of transmission it has or how to check.

My question for you is about bushings. I see some bushings go for $10 and others for $110 and they look the same. I don't really understand the whole concept behind how they work and why there important. I picked out 2 kits for the car, I'll provide the link, I had picked that after talking to a mechanic who recommended the brand. It doesn't come with any bushings, I'm not entirely to sure how many bushings the steering assembly has, what there called or where I can find them. I'm hoping you have the answers or at least shed some light so I have a better understanding of what I'm working with. Thanks!


Not to sure if I'll also need this

On the other kit you had recommended: Original Performance Super Front End Kit
Does not come with Sway bar bushing, Center link, Pitman arm, strut rod bushing, upper cam and bolt kits, lower control arm bumpers, upper control arm, lower control arm, king pin kit, upper king pin kit, lower king pin kit, and the lower control arm shafts. To be honest with you I don't know what half that stuff is. But if it doesn't come with it and I wish to replace the whole front end, I imagine that I'll have to hunt each one of these parts down and order them separately? That was my original plan. I was going to order the kit, then order most of this stuff off of oreillys
 

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Quick history of the car, it was purchased in 67 brand new by my great grandfather, who drove it up until his death in 2005. from 2005 to 2012 it sat outside in the backyard uncovered, from 2012 to 2022 it sat in a garage. The car now runs and looks salvageable. A mechanic did come by and do a quick overlook of the car to tell me its worth restoring, it does have a lot of rust, and rot on the rear right corner of the frame where the joint is. It will have to be cut and welded. The car has 56,000 miles and anytime it was maintained my great grandfather wrote it down in a journal. Every time he filled it with gas, changed a wiper, anything it was written down. The engine was rebuilt in 93 it had a new top put in in 79 the transmission was rebuilt in 84 on and on the car was well maintained. Right now my goal is to get it rolling and drivable. Biggest concern right now is the steering linkage, breaks, transmission as I checked the fluid to find out it was bone dry after idling for 45 minutes. Any chance you know what type of trans fluid and how much goes in? I don't know what kind of transmission it has or how to check.

My question for you is about bushings. I see some bushings go for $10 and others for $110 and they look the same. I don't really understand the whole concept behind how they work and why there important. I picked out 2 kits for the car, I'll provide the link, I had picked that after talking to a mechanic who recommended the brand. It doesn't come with any bushings, I'm not entirely to sure how many bushings the steering assembly has, what there called or where I can find them. I'm hoping you have the answers or at least shed some light so I have a better understanding of what I'm working with. Thanks!


Not to sure if I'll also need this

On the other kit you had recommended: Original Performance Super Front End Kit
Does not come with Sway bar bushing, Center link, Pitman arm, strut rod bushing, upper cam and bolt kits, lower control arm bumpers, upper control arm, lower control arm, king pin kit, upper king pin kit, lower king pin kit, and the lower control arm shafts. To be honest with you I don't know what half that stuff is. But if it doesn't come with it and I wish to replace the whole front end, I imagine that I'll have to hunt each one of these parts down and order them separately? That was my original plan. I was going to order the kit, then order most of this stuff off of oreillys
couple of quick things.

first, I didn't recommend the "Original Performance Super Front End Kit", that was simply a link I found by Googling. there are a number of suppliers and resellers for old Chevy parts, that just happens to be one of them. in regards to buying old chevy parts, the vendors rep is my #1 priority because there are too many of them who don't supply customer service. "oh, we shipped the wrong part, you'll have to pay to send it back and we'll take our sweet time giving you credit and getting you the right part". and just because they've been in business a long time promises nothing. there is one vendor I know of who has consistently over the years over-promised and under-delivered on parts, customer service, promises, you name it. how they even stay in business is beyond me. Any of our forum members here can give you stories like that.

two, the fact that your ggrandfather kept a record of EVERYTHING is Gold! you have a history there that cannot be duplicated regardless of the current condition of the car. 56k miles? people would kill for an original like that!

third, if you haven't been going to swap meets, then start. there will be vendors there selling everything. this is how you start getting into the feel/flow of it, locating your sources. there will be vendors selling only bumpers, transmissions, mirrors, glass, rear axles, original assembly line books, etc. I ran into this vendor a few months ago while at a swap meet in Fort Worth. they don't goto the smaller meets 200 miles south where I live, so, a good find for me.

fourth, tranny fluid should be Dexron. go ahead and add some but beware, if it's currently empty it may have dried up seals which means it is time for another rebuild. depending on what your plans are, if you're just going to drive regularly while fixing it up then go ahead and do the mechanical first (brakes, steering, driveline). if this is a project then do all the sheetmetal and body first then the mechanical.

I'd still like to have @BigDogSS and @62BillT jump in and give some comments with what they know and have experienced
 

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If the car only has 56,000 on it, you should not even need a Front End Rebuild Kit. I would just replace the part that got damaged. On the Trans Fluid, start the car let it run for a little while and check the Dipstick while the car is idling. Add what should be current Dextron available, but I would verify that with some Auto Trans owners out there. All my vehicles have a Clutch, lol.
 
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They changed the steering in 67 to fix the Ackerman issues...

Here is a good site that details the 67 Steering compents...

66 steering fix

About the "A lot of rust, and rot on the rear right......."

I would be concerned about frame rust and repair....

These frames rusted especially in the northeast and cutting and replacing parts of a frame is not always the best or cheapest option...


I've been down this road with my 66





I ended up replacing my frame because most shops wouldn't touch a Frame repair or it was going to cost $5 to $6k..





my $.002
 

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Well Matthew,
Breath or fresh air, 16 years old, congratulations.
Sorry I can be windy… here it goes.
I know you are asking about bushings but i would start with 2 items, GM 1967 B body assembly guide and a 67 mechanical guide, if you are even considering attempting a car with 55+ years of technology ago, you need to consider how you want to repair things and in what order, in my opinion you had better start with the frame, or better yet your tools, a space to do repairs, and not to discourage anyone, your financial situation. if you can rebuild the front end and drive it as is your getting away cheap, if you can do the work your self saves so much, tools are an investment that you will use for a long time when you own an old car and DRIVE IT!
If you pay someone to the work, #1 most do not want to work on “old cars” and if they do, the price doubles, need to get a rolling jack, and get car inside, up on secure jackstands (unless your set up like Ted 😉) Study the bottom, but if the car needs a frame, it needs a frame, (Teds photos are perfect, some holes you cannot see until lifted from the body) that a safety item you cannot ignore! Convertible frames are Convertible frames, not 2 door frames, convertible and are hard to find, may find a rolling one on FB, but watch out for scammers, there are a lot of good sellers, but just as many bad ones.
Look at trunk floor and front floor pans with an extremely close eye. Unfortunately cars have gotten expensive in parts, rebuilding parts, finding parts etc. shipping. Some will tell you all parts 65-70 Impalas/ B bodies interchange, some parts in suspension, but really not much else unless modified, and ones person’s idea of how something should be repaired may be different than the next.
Replacing the frame opens a lot of new doors, (I call it where do you stop) that’s the time to replace brake and fuel lines.
So please be aware of so many that love to take your money and do nothing in return.
Look for Impala stores on line, Luttys , H&H was mentioned, don’t use the one fits all like Classic industries or Ecklers, they try and satisfy the Camaro, Chevelle crowd, not us, the red headed step child.
Not that you may need to use them for something l, but a rap-ore with a company can save you in shipping and if the one person at a company treats you right and appears knowledgeable, ask to speak with them, always call vs the order on line to verify they have the parts.
If your front end only needs a rebuild and you can drive it, still check your exhaust and brakes, MAKE sure that the shop that does the alignment KNOWS HOW TO TO THE alignment. if they want to put shims in the front end, go someplace else.
by you description, the tow truck driver hooked the tie rod, and center link, or idler arm, all easy to replace and tools needed can a lot of times be rented. also check your strut rod bushings, r&left, often missed and can be time consuming it doing it with hand tools due to rust.
I know i went through the worst case to simple case.
This is a good post, most impressive is your age and interest, a lot of us used to be able to just go to parts store and get what needed.
Lots of good information in the whole post, take what you need, leave the rest, Just stay constant, don’t buy some of this and some of that.
good luck, as most Impala Forums we are a different breed.
good luck and press on

Bill H.
 

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I would also watch out on some of the rebuild kit pieces. I ended up with some odd steering geometry using "all new" parts and ended up buying a couple of NOS components because they were actually correct. The steering issues are towards the end of my build thread.
 

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Yes, I agree, just replace the parts that need to be replaced. If you need to rebuild, I'd go with rubber and Moog parts. I'm surprised it has frame rust issues if it was garaged until 2005 and only left outside from 2005-2012. Please post pictures of the car. What engine does the car have? I'm assuming it is an automatic on the column. Does it go "PRNDL"? Or "PRND21"? Post pictures of the engine. And the cowl tag --> a little tag attached to the firewall above thee master cylinder.
 
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