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Discussion Starter #1
I currently have a 67 with a 283 and the stock 2 speed powerglide. I'm wanting to put a 350 or a 383 in but I'm wanting to do my research before I do it. Here are a few questions:

Will either motor bolt straight up or will I have to rearrange everything under the hood?
Will I have to make any changes to compensate for the added HP in the steering, suspension or anything?
Where is a good place to look for finding either block and the parts to go along with it? (I'm on a somewhat limited budget)


Help is greatly appreciated!!!!
 

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Any Chevrolet small block motor will bolt in place of any other Chevrolet small block motor. From the out side they are all the same (they actually are not, but it takes an "expert" to tell the different years (decades) subtle changes as the motor morphed from it's 1955 265 beginnings to it's 2001 final production version 350 Vortec motor. In between it swelled and shrank from a 262 to a 400 cubic inch displacement but any motor can be installed in place of any other motor if there is a running SBC there now.

Save your money and buy the motor last. It has an unlimited one year warranty from the date of purchase not from when you are ready to go on your first drive. Most people have their warranty expire while the motor is still sitting on an engine stand and they are happily sanding day in and day out after spending years trying to get the body ready for paint. A motor can be installed hooked up and driven away in less than six hours working by yourself with a few common shop tools.

As to the reliability of your components, they will all survive if you treat them gently. Neither your transmission or the rear end are up to the power levels of a modern V-8. that is why the factory stopped making those components in the past and replaced them with stronger pieces. The PowerGlide and 8.2 inch drop out rear end where designed for an in-line six displacing 235 cubic inches and having less than 120 horsepower.

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So are you saying I should upgrade the rest of my drive train to handle the additional power? And also where would I buy the motor itself? Sorry I'm just starting out doing this, I don't really know much of anything yet.
 

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67 350 swap

I had a 283 on my 67 hardtop...i swaped it for a 350...i did change the following: radiator -for a 3row,starter,water pump,harmonic balancer, 55 amp alternator(optional),changed points distributor for hei- got from a junked 74 impala, the whole pulley system and power sterring pump i got was from an 80s monte carlo with a 307 motor from a junk yard...i was also on a budget, it took me a whyle to complete especially since i added headers,edelbrock intake and carb, flowmasters... the motor was a fresh rebuilt with 1 year warranty......also make sure to buy new motor mounts-check out my post on interlocking mounts...i used the same suspension ,same brake system i finally upgraded a year later...... some times you can get a good deal on a motor and trans with all parts still on motor like water pump,starter and pulleys at a junk yard...but if your planing to buy a rebuilt motor, same as dave i strongly recomend to buy it last after you buy all other components..the warranty was over before i even finished..hope this helps pm me if you have any other questions.. oh and my trans is a 350 i got from a 76 fire bird no modifications straight bolt on...4 years later still runs great....:beers:
 

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Best place to buy is from Chevrolet's performance parts division (GMPP) as they will sell you a brand new engine that has a GM warranty.

The difference between the GM warranty and the "warranty" offered by all other engine builders (including myself when I had to build and engine for a customer who insisted on something besides my 30 seconds or thirty feet grantee) is an insurance policy that you buy from an insurance company based upon the number of claims you have had against you for a another motor. It states that you go get your motor repaired by an ASE certified shop, at your own expense, and afterwords you then file an insurance claim with them to see if they will honor it (as with any and all insurance claims they then do everything in their power to wiggle out of paying you).

With the GMPP warranty you drive (or have it towed) into any GM dealership in the US and Canada and they will fix your car on the spot for free up to and including giving you a brand new motor out of their inventory with a new warranty. It actually is a better warranty than the one in your new car as it is sold as a performance engine so having a cam, or headers on the motor doesn't excite the warranty claims agent as it does with a new car engine (they have an exclusionary clause that states it has to stay stock). The only exception is you can not race the car with the GMPP crate motor in it, so wipe of the shoe polish on the front windshield showing your ET bracket before towing it to the dealer.

As far as that goes you can buy a TH350 or 700R4 transmission complete and brand new from Chevy as well and those parts will also have a one year 12,000 mile warranty.

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #6
They have some really good stuff on GMPP haha I'm like a kid in a candy shop right now. That's just out of my price range though for a 383 I didn't think it would be that much. I'm probably gonna have to just go to the junkyard and find one or something.

But yeah thanks though you guys are giving me an idea of all the stuff I'll have to do for it, I appreciate it it
 

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A GMPP crate motor is sold for less that my cost for the parts to do a quality rebuild (using quality American made parts just like GM does). In other words after I buy pistons rings bearings gaskets a new manifold and distributor (ones out of a junk yard are all controlled by computers and will not work without an EFI motor), and a new forged crank and rods my price of parts has already exceeded the price GM sells their new motor made with all new parts as well. This doesn't include the cost of machine work to a stock block to get it ready to build, or for my labor (and that is free when I'm building a motor for myself).

Just keep that in mind if someone offers you a brand new motor for less than GMPP sells one. Something either isn't brand new or it was made with cheap inferior parts from off shore. The only justification for going to an engine builder that I can see (and I am an engine builder) is to get a motor that GM doesn't make (such as a 427 cubic inch small block Chevy, or a brand new DZ stamped 302 for your Camaro Z/28 restoration).

Big Dave
 

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YOu could consider buying a shortblock from a reputable company like GMPP, RHS, or American Speed (block, crank, pistons and rods) all professionally built,...then you bolt on your available heads and intake. Maybe saving a little money and doing some things later.

just a thought...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah I'll probably just buy one from GMPP or somewhere like that then. I didn't realize building one would be that expensive, I'm still a little naive I guess ha.
 

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Any Chevrolet small block motor will bolt in place of any other Chevrolet small block motor. From the out side they are all the same (they actually are not, but it takes an "expert" to tell the different years (decades) subtle changes as the motor morphed from it's 1955 265 beginnings to it's 2001 final production version 350 Vortec motor. In between it swelled and shrank from a 262 to a 400 cubic inch displacement but any motor can be installed in place of any other motor if there is a running SBC there now.
This isn't true. The first small blocks had a front-mount motor mount configuration and don't interchange with the later blocks. I've seen a few floating around, and it's something to look for.

You don't need to spend the money on a crate motor or rebuild to get a reliable engine. I would suggest finding a good running truck or car with a 350, and buy the vehicle and sell the remainder after removing any parts you don't need. This will keep your costs down, and give you a reliable motor you can upgrade with a crate engine later if desired.

I wouldn't hesitate about any of your parts being strong enough to stand up to more power, including the rad rear end and suspension.
 

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What kind of price range are looking at? My brother just pulled a 383 stroker out of his 73 Nova. It has less that 5000 miles on it and comes with heads, intake, oil pump and pan, and all the guts. I can ask him what he wants for it if you're interested in still dropping one in your car?
 

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thats the route I did, GM replacement 290hp motor. didnt need anything fancy, my wagon is just a cruiser.


after some painting and install

I painted it to match the interior of the wagon.
 

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Nice looking engine. You should have it running soon.
 
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