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I just bought a 1968 Caprice in fairly great shape ,but the guy i bought it from left it in a mess.First of all ,he has parts all over the place and almost all the bolts are missing from the parts he took off the car.First Question is : I bought a 1968 327 with a 700R4 tranny and i was wondering if this will work with the original crossmember? #2 : Does anyone know the size and dimensions of the bolts for the cross member? #3 : Has anyone already used this tranny with their Impala/Caprice and know what the drive shaft dimensions are as well? I know this seems like alot of questions but any help would be greatly appreciated! :)
 

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First off you can buy every bolt to put the car back together again at either your local auto parts store (Buy Rockwell brand American made bolts and nuts, not the cheap stuff from off shore. Not to be patriotic, but because it might save your life). Another option if you are considering a restoration is you can buy the original factory bolts with the correct cad plating or zinc oxide plating as a kit (it is sold to fit a Chevelle since they don't sell stuff specifically for B-bodies, but they are the same size and number of bolts used in the same locations as used on the bigger Impala). The kit contains hundreds of little plastic bags labeled with the bolt size quantity of bolts and nuts and where they should be used.

The original cross-member will still work but it has to be shoved back further in the frame and the drive shaft has to be shortened to work with the longer 700R4 transmission. The bolts that go into the aluminum case of the 700R4 are all metric not SAE so once again a trip is needed to go to the hardware or auto parts store. Also use anti-seize on those bolts that are screwed into aluminum.

Big Dave
 

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Ah ok thanks for the Info man! I am really excited about getting this thing on the road and being patriotic is a good thing! I miss seeing alot of these American muscles on the road so i am doing my part to get another on the road!
 

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Ah ok thanks for the Info man! I am really excited about getting this thing on the road and being patriotic is a good thing! I miss seeing alot of these American muscles on the road so i am doing my part to get another on the road!
It goes beyond being patriotic (though I won't buy anything at Walmart other than DVD's and Wrigley bubble gum because I always buy only American made products if I can). The reason you don't want a cheap bolt is China and India and all of Asia doesn't have the iron ore deposits or the coal to melt it. Consequently all of the steel that they use comes from recycling steel made originally here in the US or Europe. Used steel (scrap iron) contains contaminates from the aluminum rivets and the copper wires that are part and parcel of old refrigerators and used cars. That metal contaminates the steel and makes it weak by providing shear planes in the molecular structure of the pig that they cast from the scrap iron at the foundry.

Consequently their grade eight bolts are closer to our grade three bolts and almost every bolt used on a car is at least a grade five and important bolts that transfer power or hold up the car are all grade eight. (the screws that hold the trim on are grade three). If a bolt breaks your wheel comes off or the motor comes unglued which you really don't want to happen. Even the government is caught up in this problem since they buy fasteners as cheaply as they can but normal business practices in China is bribery so some bad stuff gets through the MIL Spec quality control program because of bribes (not only cash but women).

I spent nine years of my life checking up on factories and foundries making products to verify they wouldn't kill any one from over seas (includes India and Malaysia as well as Taiwan). Thet routinely attempted to bribe me with everything from gold to beautiful women to look the other way and ignore how they made low quality cheap stuff for export in the hopes of making a higher profit.

There are no laws in China controlling commerce or the environment. Theft and lying as well as bribery are skills learned as a child there if they want to succeed in business. (If they get caught and it causes the government embarrassment such as tainted baby food, or bad dry wall, or bad dog food that kills dogs, or even using banned lead in painted children's toys; the owner is taken out in the middle of the night and shot dead. That is the only control mechanism in place).

Big Dave
 

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Hey there I also have a 68 chevy caprice. I need a new frame. Can you tell me what years and models will fit and does it matter whether its a 2 door or 4 door or conv? Where would be a good place to find this frame any ideas?

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Theoretically all if the frames from 1965 through 1970 can be made to fit with modification and fabrication skills. If you want a bolt in you will need one from 1968-'70 as the earlier years had engineering changes to make the part cheaper (with less labor costs not of lower quality). These changes are minor and can be easily overcome with a welder and a hand drill (3/4 inch as some of the holes are large which means you will also need a selection of bits from 1/2 to an 1-3/4 inch in size to bore holes that may or may not be missing).

What is of greater importance is getting a rust free frame which will only exist on a car that has lived it's whole life no where near road salt or excessive rainfall. These are found in the desert Southwest. Water and salt are hard on iron parts.

As far as differences in the frame the convertible and the station wagon are made out of heavier gauge steel when they pressed at the factory. The heavier and stronger frame is also wider through the main web (taller) has extra cross members and additional bracing that is not found on the lighter cars. The main difference in a four door and a two door is in the placement and number of holes punched in the frame to mount the body.

Big Dave
 

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People that are pushing electric fans are trying to separate you from your money. The power they claim it saves has to come from somewhere. You would never guess where that power comes from; the alternator attached to the same motor as was the fan should you remove it. So that is a fallacy (aka lie).

Assuming you pursued this line of reasoning (you save horsepower) a little further you will discover that the laws of Thermodynamics gets in the way. Every time you attempt to convert energy from one form to another there is associated with that change a loss of a portion of the original energy (a sizable percentage actually). So let us follow that transition.

You start with the mechanical energy of the crankshaft snout (I am going to ignore the two thirds loss of potential chemical energy that was converted into heat, before that heat was converted into the mechanical energy, found at the end of the crankshaft).

http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/transportation/consumer_tips/vehicle_energy_losses.html

So we have a V-belt which suffers from a seven percent loss in transporting energy from the crank to the alternator (or the original water pump and fan, but at least once at the water pump pulley there is no further loss of energy). That seven percent is the measured loss that is mechanical energy being converted to heat due to friction. Without the friction the belt would slip and we couldn't get the energy from point A to point B. This known frictional loss (you can look these facts up in an engineering quick reference book that contains thousands of such pieces of trivia) is why the factory switched over to a serpentine belt system.

http://papers.sae.org/2004-01-0481/

From the crank to the pulley of the alternator we have a seven percent loss. Converting the mechanical energy of the rotating pulley at the alternator results in another fifteen percent loss in energy due to frictional losses and inefficiencies in converting the mechanical energy into AC current available at the terminal. But wait, your car runs on DC current not AC. So we use diodes to throw away half of the current that the alternator creates to make it into DC current (we basically chop off the bottom half of the AC wave form to created a continuous pulse of just the top half waves in the polarity that the car likes). SO from the crank to the alternator you have lost 7 percent plus 15 percent to convert mechanical energy into electrical energy then we throw away half of what remains so doing the math we have 39.5 percent of the original energy available at the crank to turn the electric fan.

Now let us consider the fan that is going to cool our car. First a quick quote to let you know that I am not pulling these numbers out of a dark moist hole, that reeks of methane.

"Fans can typically be distinguished into centrifugal and axial fans, ...

Among these sub-categories, the fan's efficiency can vary between 55 percent and 88 percent, which implies that great potentials for efficiency improvement exist simply by choosing the right fan, although not all fans are applicable for all purposes ... " 1

Depending upon how cheap the manufacture of your fan chose to be (which is the inverse of the statement of; depending upon how much profit the manufacture desires from his product), your fan could have one of three styles of DC electric motor. I don't think anyone would choose the cheapest or shaded pole motor. So the supper inefficient, but dirt cheap to make motor that looses 88 % of the energy put into it is off the table. So we now have either a permanent magnet motor or the same DC motor that the factory chose to use in your starter motor. A simple test of putting a compass next to your fan motor will tell whether it has permanent magnets inside of it or not.

Now we have a two thirds loss in power just by switching to an electric driven fan. This is fine because the power required by the fan is at most the amount of current (30 Amps according to the fuse) times the voltages (assuming 13.8 Volts at best) when computed this yields the available power as expressed in Watts. Doing the calculation we arrive at 414 Watts of power. Knowing that you are probably unaware of how much power this is let me express it as something more common; horsepower. The result is 0.5551831 Horsepower: maximum (Lord willing, and everything is at the maximum allowed; which it isn't going to be, or the fuse would pop).

Now we are going to convert this electrical energy through our electric motor that assuming it is the best motor made will still result in a 15% loss in power. In reality expect a third of a horsepower turning the 15 inch diameter 8 bladed fan with 1 inch wide blades.

I have proven in other posts that the wider the blade with the greater pitch (these 8x1 fan blades are nearly flat) the more air you move as measured in cfm.

http://www.impalas.net/forums/showthread.php?t=5710

You can compare the cfm rating of all of these fans as that is a sales feature. Please note that at no time dose any company that sells both a belt driven fan and an electric fan state that the electric fan is better. Nor will they release the cfm ratings of a belt driven fan (imagine if you could comparing the cfm rating of the stock no cost fan compared to the expensive aftermarket fan, fan controller and mounting hardware that out puts but a small fraction of air).

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/frequent-questions/
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1 Energy efficiency in electric motor systems: Technical potentials and policy approaches for developing countries. DEVELOPMENT POLICY, STATISTICS AND RESEARCH BRANCH WORKING PAPER 11/2011 UNITED NATIONS
INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ORGANIZATION

Big Dave
 

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First you buy a 1988-'93 454 short block out of a light pick-up truck. Then you buy a set of aluminum aftermarket heads, aluminum intake, aluminum water pump, and an aluminum carburetor. You still need to get rid of or move another eighty pounds of weight but with an aluminum radiator and the battery in the trunk you now have a BBC in need of an over haul (higher compression small domed pistons, and a solid roller cam) that has no more weight over the nose than your old 327 that will pump out 450+ horsepower, and nearly 500 ft/lbs of torque.

That to me is the next step above a 327. Your mileage may vary.

Big Dave
 
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