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Hello Purchased new rear brake light harness and in stalled it with new bulbs. (1157 & 1156 in middle) Lights lit when pulled out knob on switch and brake lights worked when stepping on peddle. Here is the problem the brake lights has stayed on ever since and even when I pull it out of socket on driver side. One other problem directional on right side works and drivers side does not blink. Any answers? Thanks Bobs66
 

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Could be . To determine that just look to see if it is pushed down and not resting on the pedal. You can push it in by hand to see if the spring inside is still there.

Big Dave
 

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My first guess would also be that problematic, old turn signal switch mechanism in the steering column under the steering wheel.
However, your description sounded like this only just happened after that rear harness installation. That seems more than coincidental unless you do not have much past mileage on this ride as a baseline.
Could you lay in the old harness to see if the problem goes away? (Not sure of what the previous issue was causing the harness swap though)

Do you have a copy of the wiring layout? I don't have a copy on this work laptop, but, it's been posted here at the site multiple times. You might be able to search for it.
 

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Power comes from the fuse box to the brake light switch to ground for the brake lights (both sides light up). If the turn signal switch is bad (it usually is because it was made out of an experimental material called PLASTIC, that was just invented. In this case, hard white nylon plastic. It supplies power to one side of the car or the other with a flasher breaking the circuit intermittently to flash the lights.


Luckily I reread your description of the problem. Because what you described is it flashing on one side but staying on on the other. I would look for a burned out front turn signal bulb or a blown dash light as both have to light to complete the circuit. If the dash light stays lit then it is the front turn signal that is at fault. If you walk up front and see front light stuck on but no light in the dash it is a bad dash bulb.

Big Dave
 

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Also check the pinout on the new connector where it plugs into the harness running down the driver side in the corner of the trunk. The one I ordered was wrong and didn't match the wiring diagram. I had to remove the terminals and reinstall them in the connector so it matched the diagram and the existing harness.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the help and glad to report two problems solved #1 Bad brake light switch #2 Bad front single bulb Team Impala was right on the money Bob
 

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Hi Dave and Folks,

I recently replaced my front drum breaks with disc brakes. Now my rear lights are staying on unless I pump the brake pedal. At first, I assumed it was the brake switch gone bad. It's been replaced and the issue still occurs. Does the bracket need to be changed to fix this issue or is there something I'm missing? In addition, the bulbs in the cluster dash appear to have blown. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh, I forgot to mention the fuses were checked and all appear to be good.
 

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I'd be curious to know the difference in where the pedal sits after you pump the brakes versus beforehand.

Sounds like your brake pedal is not coming all the way back up initially and then after pumping the pedal it does return to it's normal position.
You can adjust that brake-light switch under the dash if we're talking about a pretty small amount of pedal movement. Obviously you need to be careful and not adjust too much and prevent brake lights from coming on under braking/pedal travel.
 

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Pretty sure this is an electrical problem (due to you only mentioned the one change made being replacing the wiring), and the only mention this as it is the result of hot roddin' (something we all love to do if it isn't a museum piece). That is when you convert from manual drum to power assist disc the master cylinder changes and with that change you need a replacement push rod to go from a different location on the brake pedal into the back of the master cylinder (you change from the top hole on the pedal to the lower hole to go from manual to power assist).

Doesn't sound like rocket science but the angle that the rod pushes changes and the receiving part of the master cylinder can be either a deep cup or a small dip depending upon what the donor vehicle was that the brake company got the part off of. And to make matter worse they rarely include the push rod or even mention this change in the instructions.

Reason I brought it up that change results in a change in the pedal height off of the floor, which results in an adjustment to the position of the brake light switch. Speaking of adjustment: when you buy the missing different length push rod buy the adjustable version to fine tune pedal height and to obtain a full stroke on your brake application. The manual rod is too short and results in only a partial piston travel inside the master cylinder; with resulting poor braking and mushy brake pedal feel.

Big Dave
 

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You need a different master cylinder and a proportioning valve with the front discs. Those parts, and proper bleeding, will reset the pressure switch and make the light go out.
 

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You need a different master cylinder and a proportioning valve with the front discs. Those parts, and proper bleeding, will reset the pressure switch and make the light go out.

Good point Jay. When Woodsg said he did a disc brake upgrade, I automatically *assumed* he did the master cylinder and prop. valve. Bad on me! :-O
 
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