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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
327 im changing the fuel pump and the push rod is not cooperating. Will not move up at all so i can install the pump. Tried cranking the engine with bumps and i get nothing and for some reason the bolt on the crank pulley is missing just found that out. Any ideas?



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Need to check the presence of a 9/16 hex head bolt (3/8-16 by 5/8th inch long) in the top motor mount hole on the front of the block. It has to be removed and a longer one threaded into the hole to hold the push pump rod as you install the rod into the block. If the one in there now is too long it won't allow the push rod for the fuel pump to move. It has to have the short bolt to seal the hole to prevent an oil leak.

As afar as the bolt in the crank goes no base engine had a drilled crank snout; only the steel forged crank high performance engines got the retaining bolt. It is an indication of a forged crank on older engines. Many machine shops will drill your cast crank with a bolt hole on a rebuild so it isn't totally fool proof.

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks big dave i got the pump in but still isnt staying on. I put a few gallons of fuel in it the day i had the prob. It starts when i put fuel in the carb but once it burns that it shuts off and the filter has fuel in it.


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Unbolt the pump and move it out of the way if you can without disconnecting it. Then put the tip of your finger on the end of the push rod. Having a remote starter switch and the coil wire removed bump the motor over to see if you can feel the rod move. If not you have wiped the cam lobe off the cam. If it does move replace the pump with another one.

Big Dave
 

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If it is wiped off do i have to pull the engine?


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No you can swap a cam while the engine is still installed. You just have to pull the radiator and sett aside the A/C condenser if you have one to get room to stab it in.

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update got it going all is fine BUT... it shuts off here and there at stops when im not giving it gas. Not at every stop just every once in a while


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Hi Eduardo, I'm curious if this car/engine used to run or not, and what precipitated the changing of the pump? Your last symptom there sounds like some relatively simple carb-tuning...........but that would have pre-existed before any Fuel Pump replacement. (setting idle speed, A/F ratio mixture screws, float level, replacing filters, etc) What kind of carburetor is it? And did it used to run fine before the old fuel pump died?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It didnt run super excellent but it ran very good (if that makes sense). It wouldnt turn off but it did need some tuning not as much as right now though. And i changed the pump because it left me stranded but thanks to bigdave i got it pumping and running


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Sounds like you are running out of gas. This could be due to a bad pump or a clogged fuel filter which is one of the problems with a mechanical pump; they suck. An electric pump that is mounted below the bottom of the gas tank is gravity fed gas that is hen pressurized and pushed forward.

That won't help with trash in the tank from clogging the filter, but it stops vapor lock on hot days and the gas picking up heat from the engine (which is way above the boiling point of gas most of the time). In the old days before they were outlawed we used to run the gas through a can filled with ice (but ice melts, and gets water on the track, so the cool can was outlawed for safety reasons).

Big Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yea dave youre right i sat in it for a while letting it idle and shatter my dreams every 5 min. Then "i thought screw it im pulling the filter its easy and its just right there" so i blew in it and sure enough it was clogged. The reason i didnt go there first is cause the damn thing was so clean it looked brand new (owned the car for 2 months only) i cleaned it out let it idle then i drove it and drove it and drove it. And it didnt shut off. Thank for your help. I still need to tune the carb though but i dont have a tach


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I bought a cheap bosch tach at Advance Auto and took the 4 minutes to wire it up just for that purpose. I left the white wire (light) disconnected since i wasn't using it for daily driver purposes. Just tuning. If you don't want to do that, a timing light with a digital tach read out is another alternative. I do that for older VW's as there is no tach on them as well, and you need to get to 3500 RPM to set the timing right. 3500 by ear is tough.

But honestly the cheap tach at any auto parts store is a decent buy.

Good luck.

MB
 
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