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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I asked an associate from AA about a new dash harness. I didn't get the engine harness that I needed altho it's correct for the car,so I asked how to hook up my HEI msd using this harness.
The answer he gave me is to use the R wire on the harness. the wire is currently taped off and not in use.
I'm using a i2 wire to my Ig. switch thru the firewall to the HEI,this is working but I would prefer to have that wire in the engine bay.
I'm thinking I might have to buy another engine harness,this is why I'm looking for suggestions.
I should have dealt directly with A A and I would have got the right harness.The harness I got was intended for the alt.on the left & mine is on the right so I have a mess but I'm hooked up.
 

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Sounds fixable without buying another harness but I admit I'm a bit confused by this one sentence. "I'm using a i2 wire to my Ig. switch thru the firewall to the HEI" Is 'i2' a typo? You have a *direct* 12V coming into the switch and then *direct* Keyed 12V to the HEI from there, right? No fuseable link or factory resistive wiring BS?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
should have typed 12 gauge from my ignition switch to HEI ,no fuse .no resistor wire,on with the key. Is what the rep. told me about the R wire workable? The way I understand it there is only 12 V at the R term. when the car is cranking. While I'm at it a mechanic hooked up my elec. choke to the 1 wire on the alt with a diode,& to the 12 gauge wire I'm talking about at the distributor.Was this a viable hook up? To clear some of this up I'm hooked up with my old dash harness,which is only working part time.This is what is working,headlights,heater,keyed yellow to the radio,turn signals.Here is what is not working,yellow wiper motor wire,gas gauge,dash lites.Anyway this is a lot to add on to my original question,I'm thankful for your help.

Regards,Ken.
 

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DISCLAIMER! :) I'm not an electrician nor an ASA certified mechanic.

I think the short answer here is that Yes, re-using the R terminal is workable. It's original intention was to be full 12V so putting that to the HEI gets you what you needed obviously
As for tapping into that 12V wire to use as the electric choke, I have to say I did the same thing. :) I've never had a starting issue and the choke seems to work fine. I'd call it viable. The diode was an interesting play. You do want to protect the HEI module from a potential choke failure/shorting out I guess. Seems like there should be a fuse from key to HEI though.



Regarding those other electrical bits not working, I never assume things are related unless I have factual data or a causal event.
I've seen many people have non-working gas-gauges and many others with no dash lights. The gas gauge is generally a faulty pick-up in the tank. The dash gauge just measures resistance, 90 Ohm if I recall correctly.
The Dash lights could be a tough one. Getting to them is a PITA. It could be as simple as burnt out bulbs, a fuse or lack of power to the dash cluster - or maybe just maybe a hard failure in the dash circuit board. (I think...not very common though)
 

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If all lights are non-functional look to the fuse box first (INST). Then you can replace the bulbs one at a time by lying on the floor and reaching up under the dash (I have to remove the front seat to do this).

You can find bulbs any where (Wally World, corner Chinese car part import store):

Sylvania 2825 LongLife Mini Bulb
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...VR5yzCh1tAAaOEAQYASABEgIdj_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Big Dave
 

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The install instructions for my Edelbrock 1406 carb (w/electric choke) says to connect the + wire for the choke to "ignition key 12v source (NOT coil or alternator!)"

The bold font, the caps on the 'NOT', and the ! are directly from the instructions.

Just info.

Pete
 

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Sounds like how you’re hooked up is fine. On the gauges and gauge lights I’d check grounds, then take a real good look at the headlight switch considering the dimmer switch is integrated into it.
 
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